Building a motor vs having one built for you...

[needcash]

I would like to buy a GN. but in my price range they all have fairly higher miles and have probably been beat on. so... should i

A. buy the best one i can and do repairs asd they come

B. buy a higher millage one and rebuild it. i do not have any experiance building engines but would love to try. my dad has before so he would be helping.

or C. buy a high milage one, buy a built motor, take out the old one and rebuild it then sell it lator or something like that?

 

[boostin6]

You can buy a higher mileage GN or T-type reasonable. My first car had 150,000 miles on it and ran great. It run 11.90s at 113mph. I currently know somebody that has 200,000 miles on his GN and runs great. Just because of mileage doesn't mean you have to rebuild it, unless its obvious . If you've never rebuilt an engine I would probably call Grooms Engines of TN. I've heard good things about these guys...The first engine I rebuilt was my 87 GN motor and the machine shop that did my work tried to build it like a small block chebby. It ran for about 100 miles before it spun 2 bearings. My current engine I recently rebuilt has 5000 miles on it and it runs great!! I told my machinist what bearing clearances I wanted and double checked everything myself before I reassembled it and everything went great.\

______________________

1986 Buick Regal T-type
210-205 cam, stock turbo, int. etc.
Dk. Blue Metallic w/tan leather

 

[needcash]

what are some web sites for shortblocks, long blocks, turnkeys ect...?

 

[boostin6]

Here's Grooms Engines website: http://www.groomsengines.com. They offer shortblocks and longblocks in level 1, 2, and 3. Also here is Jack Merkel Performance engines website http://www.merkelengines.com

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

A

buy one that suits you that runs and is mostly stock, hopefully from someone who doesnt beat on it regularly...

miles dont scare me, its the way the car is tuned....

ive gotta guy here that runs 19 psi on pump gas with a high timing chip and he wonders why it doesnt run too good on the topend

 

[Low Budget]

miles dont scare me, its the way the car is tuned....

ive gotta guy here that runs 19 psi on pump gas with a high timing chip and he wonders why it doesnt run too good on the topend

What do you consider to be high timing? I run 19psi on pump gas and it seems good up top to me. Maybe I don't have high timing? Sorry for the topic divergence, but I am curious about this and how it may relate to my car.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

The guy runs a chip with 24° of timing and a stock fuel pump-

what i meant to say in the post is he is running high timing for pump gas and stock fuel pump, the detonation is what is killing him on the top end-
that is why it doesnt pull up top, it detonates cause of the stock pump and too much timing for pump gas 91 here... he wouldnt know cause he doesnt have a scan tool, he is working on his 3rd shortblock

i consider that high timing for a bone stock setup-

i run 28° of timing with racegas on my stock turbo car to get er dun



hope that helps-

BW

 

[Low Budget]

Originally posted by Quick6'n'-K.C.
The guy runs a chip with 24° of timing and a stock fuel pump-

what i meant to say in the post is he is running high timing for pump gas and stock fuel pump, the detonation is what is killing him on the top end-
that is why it doesnt pull up top, it detonates cause of the stock pump and too much timing for pump gas 91 here... he wouldnt know cause he doesnt have a scan tool, he is working on his 3rd shortblock

i consider that high timing for a bone stock setup-

i run 28° of timing with racegas on my stock turbo car to get er dun



hope that helps-

BW

Thanks!

I certainly wasn't wanting to derail the path of this thread, so I appreciate the response. I'm only running 19 degrees and 19 psi. I have a 50 gph at 50 psi pump and 50# injectors. My pump gas is 93 too, so that helps. I think that guy on his third shortblock has more money than brains!
Jeff

Also, to add my .02 for the thread starter, buy one that is a good roller. I.E. body is straight with decent paint, interior good. Make sure all the electrical systems and mechanical chassis componants are good. Beyond that, if it runs decent, buy it and drive it. To the engine and driveline, fix only what really needs to be done unless you want to go faster. Of course, anything you have to fix, you may as well replace with upgraded parts. They are usually about the same cost anyway!

I had 180,000 on mine before the rebuild. It probably could have gone many more miles, but it had oil leaks that gave me a good excuse for the wife!

Join the community of Turbo Regal owners! Beats the heck out of becoming part of that "Horsey Herd"!!

Figured I better do an edit before everyone piles on me here. Do check the fuel system is up to the job on any TR you buy. I'm sure you'll want to "test" your new cars capabilities at some point. Hehe... I'd hate for you to get only one "test" out of it before the big bang!