Bonehead move+no oil pressure= Blue crank

We had a very similar situation a few months ago, and the thrust bearing in question is shown below.

The engine had 8 easy passes and the filter was full of bearing material. Same trans/converter had been used for over a year.

All the other bearing were like new including the rods, which would have been toast if it was caused by lack of oil.

We did a bore check of the main line and the thrust was a thousand and a half tighter than all the other main bearing bores. The shop that did the work showed me the specs turned in by the tech that did the work. Either he did not tell the truth, or he totally screwed up the assembly and fitment of the thrust cap.

Fortunately, Castillo's repaired the crank, and $2K later the engine ran better than ever! :)

Your bottom end has NO signs of lack of oil.

I agree on not using the block again, and the crank would really worry me unless it was sent out for check/repair, and even then it would not go in any race engine?

Thrust Bearing.jpg
 
This is the first I've heard about Castillo Crankshaft. Cruze57, thanks for posting the link. I wish this shop were closer to Detroit!! It sounds like He does great work and knows his profession. It is hard to find great shops like that.
 
The crank has been awful HOT ! Now awful BRITTLE !! I wouldn't use it if you gave it to me. Hate to say it my friend but you need a block, crank, one main cap and at least one rod. I'll bet once checked out you'll find out it's just what Nick said, WAY to tight of clearances !!!
 
The crank has been awful HOT ! Now awful BRITTLE !! I wouldn't use it if you gave it to me. Hate to say it my friend but you need a block, crank, one main cap and at least one rod. I'll bet once checked out you'll find out it's just what Nick said, WAY to tight of clearances !!!

Probably best to give Castillo Crankshaft a call and see what they can do. Your right it will be brittle but if you heat the crank to it's upper critical temperature it should get rid of the martensite that was created from overheating. But if there is any warpage, that is a different story.
 
I still contend that the cap was offcenter (for whatever reason). You can clearly see in the cap picture I doctored with arrows. The bearing thickness on one side appears near normal while on the other side it's at least 50% gone.
 
Ok, fast forward many months later........
Block checked out ok, no cracks.
Minimum will need:
Forged stoker crank
Forged rod
Bearings
Cap
Line bore
Flex plate

Assuming I find a magic money tree, what should I do?
Different shortblock?
Offcenter Stage setup?
LSX? (starting to sound better all the time, but still in denial)
 
I am leaning that way. Possible large for sale thread of all my V6 goodies.....
 
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