Bonehead move+no oil pressure= Blue crank

W

WSLN 6

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Joined
May 29, 2001
When a distributor no longer seats fully and loses contact with the oil pump, sweet colors are produced!
Nothing magical about the problem, just an oops on my part lol...
Only the thrust and 1 rod bearing got the beating, everything else actually looked good.
Aside from the color.....
Got the beats for about 20 miles with Lucas 5W30 synthetic at the time.
Bearing did not spin. rotated over by hand nice, no noise until 1700rpm+ at idle.

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Dang, that got HOT!!!! I'd suggest you magnaflux the #2 main bearing bore (block and cap). That bearing didn't spin in the block did it?
 
Throw the crank away and magnaflux the block like Dave suggested. You'll likely need a new rod too.

Neal
 
IMO, no way did the loss of oil psi do that damage... The rest of the brgs, and crank throws, are in far too good condition, to have been without oil long enough for that 1 throw to destroy itself...

like I said JMO....
 
I have to agree with Chuck. There has to be another problem.

Who did the machine work and set up?
 
The cap was too tight and / or the bearing was into the radius on the crank journal. The bearing looks chewed up in the corner. The girdle may have been shimmed too tight? How hard was it to turn the motor over on the stand? There was oil or the rest of the motor would look the same way.
Mike
 
Take a CLOSE look at the 4th picture down....The #2 Main Cap!!!!!!! Look how thick the bearing is on the left side of the cap......Now look at the bearing thickness on the right side of that cap!!!!!!!! There isn't much left there at all!!!!! :eek:

Whacked out alingn bore/hone??
 
Machine work was a shop in town, only one I have used since I got the car.
I have always used the same girdle shims over the years and nothing has changed on the bottom end.
Engine was primed with fresh oil briefly in August and then sat until now. Turned over smoothly by hand oddly enough.
Thanks for all the replies, keep those theories coming! I guess I should rip the rest apart and get the block checked first before hunting for a crank.
 
There's some SERIOUS cap fretting going on there. Give us a engine history. It has been detonated REAL hard to fret liked that. I see issues like the others have stated.
 
How about: The converter was jammed into the crank, and the thrust was loaded from the "git go". Brg/crank got hot, crank turned blue, brg is fried. rest of brgs and crank throws are ok.. [comparatively speaking]

IMO, the entire assy is junk, including the block.
 
Keep em coming!
Since I got my newer "sfi" CAT flexplate it is definately thicker than the stock one and there is very little clearance between it and the PTC converter, but it spun freely with the bolts removed, like it has for the last 2 seasons. If there is not enough space there, what are my options? Machine down the converter pads a little? (a no-no?)
If there was a thrust related failure, wouldn't you have some forward wear on the rod bearings as the crank got pushed forward?
 
WSLN 6 said:
Keep em coming!
Since I got my newer "sfi" chinese flexplate it is definately thicker than the stock one and there is very little clearance between it and the PTC converter, but it spun freely with the bolts removed, like it has for the last 2 seasons. If there is not enough space there, what are my options? Machine down the converter pads a little? (a no-no?)
If there was a thrust related failure, wouldn't you have some forward wear on the rod bearings as the crank got pushed forward?
Click to expand...

Was the converter all the way back into the pump when you did the "spin test"?? If so, and the clearance was as tite as you report, the converter had insufficient end play when under load.
Options? Get a flexplate that's not made by Ho Chi Min. Ho's plate may have not only been thicker, but could also have the contact pads at a different location, ft to back, and the center bolt area may/may not be correct in comparison to the pads. In any case, that plate wouldn't go back in my engine, unless I found other causes for the clearance issue.

As for thrust clearance: The rods should have considerably more side play than the thrust brg. IMO, the damage could/did occur without the rods being side loaded....

Mike is on the mark with the block being junk.....[At least, I'd not use it.]

Back under my rock!:D
 
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