Bogging and Shutting off 87 t-type

[84GNv6]

So basically I need the translator to upgrade to an ls1 maf? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

So basically I need the translator to upgrade to an ls1 maf? Correct me if I'm wrong.

You are correct

 

[TurboBuRick]

Yea if that's the problem.

 

[84GNv6]

When replacing a MAF you have two choices. You can upgrade to a translator and modern MAF or you can go the parts house route.

If you go the parts house route make friends with a counter person and have them 'accidently' order 12 of them. Back in the old days before translators it took 12 times on average to get one that's calibrated close enough. (in my case it was exactly 12)

How do I know if its the correct calibration? May go parts house route until I get translator.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Will it run with the maf unplugged?

Have you verified fuel pressure?

Diagnos don't throw money at it.

 

[84GNv6]

I'll try running it today with maf unplugged when I get home from work.

 

[84GNv6]

Will it run with the maf unplugged?

Have you verified fuel pressure?

Diagnos don't throw money at it.

Car runs with maf unplugged...when plugged back in, car started bogging like crap.

 

[earlbrown]

Looks like your MAF is sending screwy signals to the ECM.

 

[aminga]

If its fine on the highway the fuel pump is fine. With the car idling in park in the driveway, smack the MAF with a screwdriver a few times and see if the idle shudders. Alot of times a bad MAF wont set a code. The computers in these cars are pretty slow/stupid

FWIW Tapping the MAF is not always a reliable method of diagnosing a bad MAF. Logging it with a powerlogger or scanmaster is.

 

[87geeinn]

Save yourself some $$ and some grief.... Find someone familiar w/ these cars, and have them go over it for you.

^ This is the best advice I've read throughout this entire thread. You have this poor guy convinced that he needs a new MAF when there's about a 10% chance that this is his problem.

 

[84GNv6]

^ This is the best advice I've read throughout this entire thread. You have this poor guy convinced that he needs a new MAF when there's about a 10% chance that this is his problem.

I was really planning on getting ls1 maf and translator this weekend.

 

[87geeinn]

I was really planning on getting ls1 maf and translator this weekend.

That's fine but don't be surprised that your issue still remains after the install. Who knows, you may get lucky and you do have an MAF sensor that took a dump. However, if you read this thread from the very beginning, you will see that as soon as you posted that the car stumbled after tapping the MAF, this thread became useless. Tapping an MAF is no way to test the component. When my iPhone starts acting up, do I take a screwdriver to it to see if it will respond accordingly?

It is nice to have spare parts such as extra MAFs, coil packs, ignition modules, plug wires, etc. to troubleshoot issues when they do arise but these things cost money. Your symptoms could just a likely be caused by a fuel pressure issue, coil pack/ignition module issue, or a grounding issue.

Like, Chuck Leeper says, start a thread in the appropriate section and see if there are some seasoned turbo Buick guys in the San Anton area. I bet there are a few and I bet at least one of them has the tools, equipment, and experience to help you out.

Lord knows, after all these years, I have spare parts for just about everything in addition to diagnostic tools. I learned the hard way.

Also, if you don't have a Scanmaster yet, you better get one first and foremost. They are not an option but a necessity.

 

[84GNv6]

Ok so I replaced old maf with cardone maf from orileys and ran the car. It doesnt shut off at all now but I did notice upon starting and taking off...the boost on the factory guage jumps a bit. Other then that feels like its running better. Was the maf the problem?

 

[87geeinn]

1) I'll say it again: Get a scanmaster. At least that way, you'll be able to see what kind of reading you are getting from the MAF.

2) It's been covered ad nauseum regarding the rebuilt/cardone/generic parts store MAFs. They are unreliable and prone to incorrect calibration.

3) The factory boost gauge is worthless and should be ignored. Same goes for the RPM gauge right above it.

4) Assuming your issue was the MAF....AND you installed a good working replacement MAF, you wouldn't question whether that was the problem as the car would run noticeably better. You may have other issues that is only compounded by a possibly bad MAF.

1) Get a Scanmaster 2) Install 3) Warm car up and post readings

 

[84GNv6]

Thanx 87geeinn...I really appreciate the feedback. I'll be back as soon as I get a scanmaster and post readings. Thank you again for helping!