Ball Joints

Knux65

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Ok fellas, I'm looking into replacing the ball joints on my car in order to pass inspection. I'm curious if the springs need to be removed in order to complete this task. Is the Moog front end kit worth installing? Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
What do they see to make your ball joints get a fail?

You don't "have" to remove the springs but I find it MUCH easier to pull it all apart. That way you can do the bushings and paint the arms(or maybe powder coat if you're a baller).
I usually get the disk/caliper and tie rods out of the way(off). Then wrap a chain around the spring and frame to keep it in check if something bad happens. Then I put the floor jack under the ball joint to support it and hit the ball joint/knuckle with the pickle fork to separate it. Lower the floor jack slowly and let tension off the spring. Then removal is easy. Install is pretty much the opposite. Any questions post em up. A press for ball joint/bushing remove/replace is way easier than hammering them in my experience.

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The inspector showed me that the wheel had a little bit of play. As far as painting the arms goes, I'm not too concerned. I'm saving my pennies for tubulars and coilovers. I just want a quick, and effective solution. So if this can be done with the springs in, cool!
 
Upper or lower? If upper much easier if they have been replaced before. They are riveted in from the factory. I center punch, drill and knock the head off with a chisel. Then drive the shank out with a punch.

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I figured I might as well replace both upper and lower on each side. I'm sure the uppers haven't been replaced before... Any other tips?
 
If I was going to that much effort, I'd get a center link and tie rod ends and put them on too. It will really tighten up your steering if those are original too.
The lowers are pressed in. Harbor Freight sells a press that might work while they are on the car. I've always removed the arms to press them in and out.

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Rent the on tool press at an auto parts store. Leave all alone shock will hold spring. Bust spindle loose and have at it. The uppers have rivits that need to be ground off or drilled out. Grinding is quickest IMO. Simple job.
 
Sounds good, guys. The rest of the front end stuff was definitely part of the plan... It's all shot. Thanks a lot for the tips!
 
Ok, I've started this project. Spindles are out, as well as the center link and tie rods. My only problem now is the ball joints. The removal/install kit i got on loan doesn't seem to fit properly for removal of the lower ball joint. Can I just hammer them out? And how should I approach the upper joint removal? Here are a couple of pics of my current situation.
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Lowers will come out pretty quickly with a decent dead blow hammer. The uppers depend on what tools you have available. Hammer and chisel, air chisel, die grinder, dremel, whatever you have to cut the top of the rivets...a cutting torch works too...

Bryan
 
As above, I'd put a couple pieces of wood stacked under the arm edge to keep it from moving and put the bfh to work on the lower ball joint.
I drill and use a punch on the uppers but this is what I have. If you have a grinder, or what ever, that might be better for you .
I'd put the lower in the freezer to shrink it for ease of getting it in. The upper just sits there and is bolted.
Let is know how you do.

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sometimes you have to get creative with the spacers- or even make your own- on the ball joint tool due to GM not designing the lower control arm to be nice and flat- also, make sure you are pushing the balljoint down out of the arm and not up into the arm to get it out..

the uppers are easy- just grind off the heads of the rivets and punch them out... the new balljoint slides right in, with the provided bolts installed so the nuts face up when you are done.
 
At it again today. The lowers are out. Like it was mentioned, I had to get creative with the adapters. Now I'm working on getting the uppers out.
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1401738558.090166.jpg
Am I supposed to grind off those 4 heads from the top of the control arm, or from the the other side?
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1401738558.090166.jpg
 
Ok guys, here's an update on my progress and a request for more advice. I now have all four ball joints removed, and after destroying a few ratchets, I've come to the conclusion that I cannot press the lowers in myself. So the question is: what's the best and safest way to remove the springs from the control arms so I can take these things to a shop? Only thing holding the arms together at this point are the shocks. Fed up with this project... Thanks for any help
 
You have the tension off the spring, right? Or are you supporting the lower arm somehow?
If you do remove the arms I would seriously consider replacing the bushings in the arms.
Do you have the ability(floor jack), to let the spring tension down slowly? That's what I'd do.

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When using the ball joint press tool sometimes you have to pop the control arm on the side close to the ball joint when it gets so tight and you cant screw it in anymore. When you pop it the ball joint will pop up higher into the hole and this should allow you screw the press farther. They should go on in. But if your bushings are original might not be a bad idea to replace them.....

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I get what you're saying. The only problem is that since removing the spring wasn't my original plan, the shocks are still in place. And since the spindles are out, along with all of the ball joints, I'm not sure how I can remove the shocks. Support the car under the frame, put a jack under the arm, remove shock, release jack? Sorry, I didn't realize I was in over my head until it was too late!
 
I would jack up the arm as little as possible to get the shock out. A chain around the spring and frame for safety isn't a bad idea. A flying spring would be a horrible thing.

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I'll try that out. If I don't post back, it's because I have a spring through my face...
 
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