Thanks for all the info, this engine is over 2hrs away from me, so i want to make sure its compatible in case i need it for back up, or to build.It is very easy to determine if the block is a 1986 109 block there will be external items to identify it.
First, it will have a cast-in boss which is where the turbo oil drain back tube is located, but would have to be drilled and tapped.
The 109 block also has coolant drain plugs on each side of the engine beneath the headers.
The oil pan will come to a point at the front of the timing cover, and this pan is also on some 1985 blocks.
Of course the part number ending in 109 is cast into the block underneath.
YesSo the 109 casting also was used on carburetored V6's?
Just curious what parts can I use from this carberated 109 block engine?
I was planning to do a forged rotating assembly but due to budget constraints what can I reuse from this engine, are the rods ok, what about pistons? I've read that some people have been fine with the non turbo cranks but just curious.
Are the heads the same, so I can just bolt on my intake and build this motor on the side and when complete just swap it in?......hx
The block, heads, and rods (2 dot) should be the same if it's an 86'. If it was an 87' it may even have a turbo crank (rolled fillets on the rod journals). I have used n/a cranks in turbo motors with no failures but that was on motors making less than 450hp.Just curious what parts can I use from this carberated 109 block engine?
I was planning to do a forged rotating assembly but due to budget constraints what can I reuse from this engine, are the rods ok, what about pistons? I've read that some people have been fine with the non turbo cranks but just curious.
Are the heads the same, so I can just bolt on my intake and build this motor on the side and when complete just swap it in?
I really just wanted to build the bottom end solidly so next year I can do heads of larger turbo etc. The car is a street/strip car I already run a Th400 with a 3k stall, so that's the direction the build is going in.
Thx
You can't make that determination until you tear this motor down to see what you have to work with. I would take a close look at it to make sure it has never been taken apart. If it has then it's a crap shoot. You don't know what was done to it.I'm debating if I can get away with billet main caps with studs with this name crank and aftermarket pistons, and use stock rods and crank, stock heads (what's on the NA motor), + roller cam, for this year. So I can just bolt on my turbo parts, add a drain to the oil pan for the turbo and be done.
Whats a good way to tell if its been taken apart before? It looks like it has a lot of oil leaks, so that might be one determination lolYou can't make that determination until you tear this motor down to see what you have to work with. I would take a close look at it to make sure it has never been taken apart. If it has then it's a crap shoot. You don't know what was done to it.
If it doesn't have a lot of oil leaks it's not a Buick V6 It has two different color valve covers...that's one clue something has been apart. Look for excessive RTV around intake manifold gaskets. Difference in paint color between heads and block? Non standard bolts in some locations. New freeze plugs? Non standard factory gaskets?Whats a good way to tell if its been taken apart before? It looks like it has a lot of oil leaks, so that might be one determination lol
Well the car it came out of was a NA v6 regal so I'd be surprised if someone would have rebuild the bottom end. But I'll see when I take it apart.If it doesn't have a lot of oil leaks it's not a Buick V6 It has two different color valve covers...that's one clue something has been apart. Look for excessive RTV around intake manifold gaskets. Difference in paint color between heads and block? Non standard bolts in some locations. New freeze plugs? Non standard factory gaskets?