Answers from Steve C at SMC
Hey Guys-
Guess I've been too busy improving the system to check the forum lately......Damn. No reason for anyone to get upset in here....we're all just trying to make our cars faster! I have nothing against anyone building a DIY setup- I just wanted to build a kit with good safety and in-car tunability. There are approx 600 or so SMC kits in use on TR's so far. We have made many upgrades/improvements in the last 5 years. Any problems that have surfaced have been re-engineered. I will try to go over a couple issues to help you get the most from this kit or to deal with any problems.
1. CALL or email me if you ever have any problem! No need to tell the world in a forum if it's a basic tuning or setup issue.
2. The older kits did not have a pressure guage or switch at the tank- the "spray on" lite was activated by pump voltage. (instant on". The newer kits have the pressure switch that actually senses line pressure to turn on the spray on lite. This assures you that when the light is on, you have a minimum 30 psi line pressure.
3: Some of the pressure switches have been problematic- any suspect switches are being replaced at no charge with the new metal bodied switch.
4: The newest pumps will produce up to 100 psi pressure. The "pump speed dial" roughly corresponds to 10 psi per number.
We make no money off of our repairs when a kit is out of warranty, only charge for parts.
5: Older systems (round tank) used an in tank brass filter that can reduce pump pressure after a year or so. (Easy repair) New kits use a strainer screen instead.
6: All newer kits use a pressure guage at the tank. By having a helper press the test button on the controller (engine running) you can easily test the pressure output/condition of your pump. No reason to ever have a bad pump. Simply check it occasionally! Pump life has been good, especially with the newer HD pumps. Anyone w/o a pressure guage can upgrade their kit for $15. This is the best way to keep tabs on the system. You can also test the pump speed controller using the pressure guage.
7: Stevemon is correct in stting that once the turn on and pump speed is dialed in, you don't need to adjust it much- but it sure is convenient to do it from inside the car! (not to mention having low alky warning, spray on lite, armed lite, test button, etc..)
8: As far as I know, the SMC kit is the only one to use all brass fittings and stainless braided lines.......I would not trust any rubber/plastic lines or hose clamps on the pressure side of the pump.
9. Sorry, but NOS nozzles are crap for spraying a liquid. We use an industrial mist nozzle with a much finer spray pattern.
10.The TR's can handle alot of spray (especially straight alky) w/o bogging. The more water in the mix, the less you will be able to spray.
11. The new progressive controller is more suited to smaller turbo cars or SC applications running lower boost. These cars will bog if you spray 'em too fast or too hard. The prog. controller will automatically raise pump speed as the boost pressure increases. TThis can prevent a part throttle bog by injecting less spray at lower boost, but you can still have alot of spray at WOT boost levels. They are fully electronic and use their own internal MAP sensor. You still have the ability to adjust the "MAX pump speed" and also the level at which spray comes on. This controller is a $100 option, not $149 as stated in an earlier post. The only other system in the U.S. that offers a "progressive" feature that I am aware of is a unit from C#$%ll's supercharging that costs $995. And BTW...it is basically a "black box" that does not offer the above mentioned tunability. Are my prices too high? I think maybe too low!!!
12. Even though this is the same style of pump used in the past on another vendor's "methanol" kit, we do not recommend using methanol. It is very corrosive and will lead to premature failure. Use either denatured alky or el-cheapo rubbing alcohol, and be sure to use the proper lubricant!!!! (KLOTZ UPLON) No more WD-40, Marvel oil, or whatever.
13. The system is designed to allow the average TR to reach 20 psi. Some people report getting as high as 24-25 psi , but this is the exception rather than the norm. I try to be very realistic about gains....if you do better than 20 psi .....it's all good.
14. Most important.....Call us first b4 asking the forum......Most issues can be solved in a couple minutes on the phone or a quick email.
Thanks for your support!
