any suggestions on the 6262 turbo

wmerrell

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Having a BB 6262 turbo installed.
What other modifications are suggested?
Stall?
Torque converter?
Intercooler?
Injectors?
Downpipe?
Heads?
Cam?
Alky?
Boost?
 
Having a BB 6262 turbo installed.
What other modifications are suggested?
Stall?
Torque converter?
Intercooler?
Injectors?
Downpipe?
Heads?
Cam?
Alky?
Boost?

What are your goals?

Royal is 100% correct PORT THE HOLE :)

I just put a 6262 BB on the car in my sig below. You can see how mine spools against the transbrake if you go to this thread: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbos-turbo-related-parts/360931-installed-my-ta-6262-dbb.html

I think the recomended stall is 28-3000, mine stalls around 2600.
You might need more injector, 60# maybe? I would get Alky and run as much boost as you can run on the alky. and see where you are before adding other mods.
 
How did you get that 60' time?
Any suspension work?
What was the boost at launch?
How much boost does the 3,000 stall hold?

Old ATR sway bar, boxed lcr's. I have a ps airbag, but I don't inflate it.

4-5# launch, which is all the tc will hold on my car using the foot brake.
 
Having a BB 6262 turbo installed.
What other modifications are suggested? 3" downpipe
Stall? PTC 9.5" 3000 stall, at minimum a 2800 stall. I actually have a PTC 10" 3000-3200 NLU that I'm looking to get rid of, but the 9.5 is a far better converter.
Torque converter?
Intercooler? PTE or bigger FMIC
Injectors? 80lbers (since they cost the same as 60s)
Downpipe?
Heads? ported irons are fine. Even stocks are fine. All depends on goal.
Cam? Stock is fine. Retard it 4 degrees if you want it to last to 46-4800 instead of pooping out sooner
Alky? PAC kit from Julio
Boost? 26-27+ otherwise you're wasting your time. Look at Bison and Otto's thread where they test a bunch of turbos. These new billet wheels make more power up top and will last to 33-35psi.

responses in bold.
 
I wouldn't retard the cam. I'd probably advance it and run a higher ratio rocker if I was dead set on keeping the stock cam.

Interesting. Can you explain why you would advance instead of retard? And why the higher ratio rocker? (I'm genuinely interested and trying to learn, not trying to be one of those passive-aggressive goombas that are going to argue with whatever you answer)


I have a Lunati 205 205 cam. Will that work?

The typical "small" cam is the 206/206, so I'd imagine the 205/205 will be fine.
 
responses in bold.

I have the 3" down pipe.
The converter is a D5 by Pats with a 2800 stall
The intercooler is a Mease stock 1 and a half
Going with bigger injectors. Does 80 lgs perform better than 60s?
Have ported champion iron heads
Have the alky kit installed
Cam is a 205/205
Guess it looks like all the pieces are there.
 
I have the 3" down pipe.
The converter is a D5 by Pats with a 2800 stall
The intercooler is a Mease stock 1 and a half
Going with bigger injectors. Does 80 lgs perform better than 60s?
Have ported champion iron heads
Have the alky kit installed
Cam is a 205/205
Guess it looks like all the pieces are there.

A d5 is heavier than a 9.5" or 10", so its more rotational weight (unless I'm mistaken). The 80s just allow more room for expansion later on, however to max out 60lbers on gas you need to be making close to 600hp. That being said, 80s would allows you to run E85 if you ever wanted to, and cost the same as 60s (at least when I bought my 80s). So if they cost the same, why go smaller?

The SLIC is cool, a lot of people will suggest a FMIC as there is a lot of improvement over a slic. I don't know how efficient the Mease unit is, but a used FMIC is anywhere from 3-500$ and well worth it, IMO. The alky kit will cool down the intake charge quite a bit, but I'm not sure the IAT's between a FMIC+alky and a SLIC+alky. I would imagine the SLIC would get heat soak and have a greater pressure drop (due to it being the stock-style IC design) than a newer FMIC. But then again I haven't done testing or seen data one way or another. If you have the cash, a FMIC would be a good investment if you find one used. You can find used PTE FMIC's on ls1tech all the time, and older Eastern Performance units that go for sale every so often that can be had for 2-300. (I bought mine for my 1st GN for 200$ with pipes).
 
I'm amazed they're the same price as the 60's until I looked it up and found it's true. turbotweak has them at the same price however the information about them has some very worthwhile points to consider.

Set of 6 flow matched 80lb injectors (Siemens). These may look skinny but they fit perfectly in the Turbo Buicks. Good for cars looking to go 9.80's to 11.0's in the 1/4 on race gas, or down to around 10.50's on E85 (maybe faster). Requires no ECM modifications (besides a matching chip). These are flow matched to within 1% of each other to prevent some cylinders from being leaner than others. Very good street manners for an injector this big, almost as good as the 60's. Be aware that a single intank fuel pump can only supply enough fuel for 60lb/hr injectors. So if you don't ever plan on changing to a double fuel pump setup, or external setup, then there's really no reason to use the 80's.
 
I'm amazed they're the same price as the 60's until I looked it up and found it's true. turbotweak has them at the same price however the information about them has some very worthwhile points to consider.

Set of 6 flow matched 80lb injectors (Siemens). These may look skinny but they fit perfectly in the Turbo Buicks. Good for cars looking to go 9.80's to 11.0's in the 1/4 on race gas, or down to around 10.50's on E85 (maybe faster). Requires no ECM modifications (besides a matching chip). These are flow matched to within 1% of each other to prevent some cylinders from being leaner than others. Very good street manners for an injector this big, almost as good as the 60's. Be aware that a single intank fuel pump can only supply enough fuel for 60lb/hr injectors. So if you don't ever plan on changing to a double fuel pump setup, or external setup, then there's really no reason to use the 80's.

A single in tank can supply enough fuel, but who is to say you aren't going to upgrade later? If you get the 60s and you decide to upgrade your fuel pump, you need new injectors. If you get the 80s and you stay with 1 pump you're fine. If you upgrade to 2 pumps you will still be able to flow enough.
 
6262 turbo

6262 2800 stall is ok for a mild street car if you want it to spool hard I would go with a 3200 stall. I would upgrade injectors as well, it you wanna run alky you can turn the boost up to abou lbst 28. Depending what the motor is built for. How much power are you looking for? the 6262 will support up to 670 to the flywheel. The boost on the billet wheels wake up after 20lbs of boost.
Hope this helps out.
 
If anyone is looking to get the most out of a 6262 you will likely need 2 pumps or ar least a boost a pump. Boost will be in the mid 30's and the engine rpm will need to be between 5100 and 5800. Good luck.
 
So could the 6262 do mid-low 10s at 35psi with the correct supporting mods and still be a fun on the street? Is there a better choice for a turbo if you don't want to run 35psi?
 
Top