A couple of problems installing body bushings

[2QUIK6]

I've ran into 3 small problems installing the body bushings tonight.
1) On the 6 bushing on driver side, the threaded plate in the body is not stationary and just spins after the bolt starts to thread into it. Any ideas how to fix? Maybe it will tighten up once I put the impact wrench on it, but not ready for that yet..
2) I'm missing the bolt for the same bushing, since the plate spins is why there wasn't one in it to begin with, where might I find one of the bushing bolts and what size is it?
3) On #7, the frame needs to be pushed apart to get the 7th bushing to seat properly and my darn little pump jack quit working..so I guess its off to the auto store to buy another one for this one time use unless someone has any ideas how to spread the ends of the frame apart without one and a 4x4 board?
Thanks

 

[Ray F.]

I've never done the job, but I've come across these references:

Bolt size is one here:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/mounts.html

I couldn't find anything to help you with the jack issue or #6 bushing, but maybe something in here will help:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/bushings.html

HTH

 

[2QUIK6]

Well, ran into a few more problems, I found a bolt at the auto store, its a 10mmx1.5x80, 10.9 grade. Got the frame spread apart on #7.
As far as #1, I caked a ton of JB Weld on the plate and thread the first few threads into the plate until it tightened up from finger tight and set the plate where it needs to be, hopefully I can tighten it up tomorrow when the JB Wled dries.
*
Now, for the other problem I ran into that I have not seen mentioned...
4) The emergency brake cable runs thru the frame down from the firewall right in front of the #2 bushing and keeps the frame from separating from the body. It will separate only an inch or 2, not enough to get the bushing out, so the cable end lock on the frame rail had to be disconnected from the frame.
5) Still couldn't get the body to separate enough after removing EB cable without the frame coming up with the body, so I removed all the lower bolts holding in the fender skirt in the front wheel well, peeled it back, and then the bushing was easy to access.
I'll move on to the pass side tonight or tomorrow night.
So far I have about 5 hours invested in this process, but I also removed the front and rear bumpers...I don't want to put them back on..dang they are heavy!

 

[NOKA72]

the way i do them is whatever side your working on have all the bolts out for that side...use two jacks one behind the front tire and one in front of the rear tire..jack up enough too slide the bushings in and out....then put all the bolts in...this works for me every time and i have done all my friends and my car like this with no trouble...hth..vinny

 

[BuickTom]

Another suggestion if the JB weld doesn't work out, on mine I drilled a whole in the floor above the bolt hole aiming for about 3/4" off center, and used a drift pin to prevent the plate from spinning.

Tom

 

[2QUIK6]

Originally posted by BuickTom
Another suggestion if the JB weld doesn't work out, on mine I drilled a whole in the floor above the bolt hole aiming for about 3/4" off center, and used a drift pin to prevent the plate from spinning.

Tom

That's exactly what I ended up doing, lucky for me, it was the #6 bushing right behind the rear wheel so I just had to drill thru the trunk.
*
Got them all done in about 4 more additional hours today. This is the best mod I think I've ever done for this car, it rides beautiful just like it rolled off the showroom floor, very solid and no squeeks or rattles anymore....Dela-lum front suspension bushings are next...