a/c 134

GullsGN

OLD HIPPIE
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
I haven't used my a/c in a few years. I used to recharge it myself, but R12 is a pain to find and expensive. I am thinking of using one of those store bought conversion kits. Will this work or is it a waste of time. I rarely use a/c but I like every thing to work. If I have no pressure in the system do I still have to remove R12 or does that mean it is empty and I can just add the 134. I assume that if I, indeed, have to remove R12 then I would have to go to an A/C shop??

Steve
 
Really you should go to a shop. Your going to need to change all the o-rings in the system. 134's molecules are much smaller than 12. If you fill it, it'll just end up slowly leaking out the system. While your at it you should get a new drier. No point of spending the money and having refrigerant freezing on you.
 
When I had my shop we would offer r-12 car owners the option of an r-12 compatible replacement...I think it was called Freeze 12. It worked almost as well as r-12 but was way cheaper.
 
In no way would I ever consider 134 conversion. The TR wasn't designed for it & the newer cars Susposedly designed for it do not work as well as the TR with freon 12. I have been "told" the freeze 12 works as good as freon 12 - I'd like to have an honest update. My local mechanic offeres to use freon 12 & I hope to never need it to be done - a/c is still cold today.
 
I didn't like doing the 134 conversions, they never work that well and can cause other parts to fail. Anybody want to but some conversion kits...ha, ha, R-12 is the way to go.
 
i bought a 134 conversion kit at Wal Mart 2 yeas ago to charge up my Regal, and as of last summer, it was still blowing ice cold air. in fact, it gets downright chilly if i have it on "max" for too long, and my sunglasses fog up when i get out of the car.
i didn't do any of the things you "have to do" to make it work or last- i just screwed on the fittings and filled it up. i'm not recommending this- i don't want to be responsible if something happens to fail for someone else after doing it- but it did work for me and the few other people i know that did it.
 
I also used a Walmart conversion kit on my 83 Olds Cutlass Wagon. Worked good. Might not have been the "best " way, but it works for me
 
x2 GNTIM.
Did both Buicks with Freeze 12 over 7 years ago and works great.
Every 2-3 years I have to add a little to one car.
Gary
 
I use one can of Duracool a year in my GN which had some R12 still in the system when I bought it, slow leak.

Works fine in my car as a replacement. :cool:

In the WE4 I had to install a new compressor and accumulator many years back, so I converted it to R134a and that works fine also.

Didn't change the O-rings but I did vacuum the thing out for 1/2 hour first.

I use a can of R134a a year as well, slow leak usually in the winter.
 
I have duracool in my car and I get 42*F at the vents with a large front mount intercooler. My brother in law has his own garage and he is a certified a/c tech. Evacuated the system, changed the drier/accumulator as well as some o-rings and it has worked great for two years to date. Didn't cost all that much either.

I don't use the car all that much as the roads are snow covered for 5 months of the year so it sits in storage, it doesn't get driven in the rain, we get a few really hot and humid days but the car had a/c and I wanted it to work. My experience with duracool has been good and it is abundant.
 
AC retrofit

Hi,
I have a couple of examples of successful R134a retrofits that I would like to share.The first one, is my 89 TTA.It was converted by a previous owner, and has been blowing cold for 4 years now, with absolutely no attention on my part.The compressor is slightly rattelly, but not really noticeable. I don't know what procedures were followed, but they worked.
I'd like to explain the second one, which was done on my 83 ttype.A friend of mine originally owned the car, and during the completion of the car, he decided he wanted to drive it NOW. It wasn't ready, but he insisted.And so, I prepared the car the best I could. My prep included an A/C charge,and I installed 2.5 lbs of R134a, with nothing other than an evacuation. No oil, no nuthing.
I figured it would last a couple of weeks, and that would be it. HA!
Five Years Later, it still blows cold. I swapped the motor, took two years to do it, and it was STILL blowing cold. It's pretty remarkable.
The bottom line is, these systems are remarkably tough., and the R4 compressor is a very leak free unit. They will take a lickin', and keep tickin'. R4s are pretty impressive.
Well, I don't know how the rest of this comes out, but remember, R4 compressors rock!
 
R134 here with good cold air. I just converted it for the cost of it. I do need to add a small can a year. Other than that works good.
 
Last year my compressor finally give out so I converted to to R-134a. In doing so I learned every possible way to leak down a system.

The system needs to be flushed and the dryer and orifice tube need to be changed.

But while I was doing this I did a little experiment and I discovered the problem with most R-134a conversions. The "rule of thumb" is to charge it to 85% of what the R-12 charge to keep the head pressure down. If you do that it will not cool. R-134A has a much higher working pressure

If you take a set of gauges and charge it to the proper high side pressure for R134a it will cool. It depends on the temp at the condensor but for mine in a 98degree garage it was round 325-350 PSI high side.

The only problem I had (but I replaced the compressor) was that the Low side pressure switch ruptured and leaked it down.
 
I have personally done 134 conversions in several different R12 cars and trucks. Every one worked GREAT with nothing other then the oil and gas in the kit. I have manifold gauges but just add 134 until the compressor stops cycling.

Indeed I do not know of anybody that has done the conversion and said anything bad - lots of "I heard's", but when done - lots of works fine
 
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