More Prerequisites:
Ok, before wiring anything up here, you need to know that most of the bulbs use a ground signal, so if you connect something wrong, you could burn up a trace on the board.
Here is a list of bulbs that take ground signals to light:
Brake
Service Engine Soon
Running Lights
Check Fluids
Up Shift
ABS
Here are the lights that take positive signal:
Seatbelt
Highbeams
If you are wiring up Alky Control and want to figure out what to use for the lights, you are in luck because they are both lit on the ground side.
Special note on security light:
If you have a security light that you want to light up when the car is off, then you have a couple options:
--The positive wires on the new cluster for the warning lights are supposed to go to an ignition source. The security light won't work if you wire it into something and the ignition is off. Now you could just wire the lamp positive wires to battery source, but if something else sends a ground signal while the car is off, it will light and the battery will drain. In my case, I used the low fuel signal in my Alky tank, which is ground, to the check fluids light. Since I knew wiring the "ignition 3" wires to batt would cause that to stay on, I opted to extend the wires on the security light and just pop its socket into the place for the upshift light.
Special note on Alternator light:
There is a generator lamp wire, however I don't see a lamp and also have no clue if it keeps your car charging. That's because I bypassed my lamp circuit a long time ago with a resistor when something got disconnected. You may have to do this too. I was going to post a link to the alternator field thread, but I can't find it.
So here is how I wired it all:
Sensor wiring:
Note about the coolant sensor:
Some of you will notice that the coolant temp sensor is the exact same one that is already on the top of the intake and feeds the ECM. I thought that I would have an easy kill on this one and tapped into the yellow wire off the sensor to the gauge. Make sure you don't do this. For some reason it screws with the signal and tells the ECM that the car is running at 1/2 the correct temp. I found this out the hard way when I could not start the car due to a "coolant temp too cold" code. Disconnecting it fixed it. I let the motor warm up and then reconnected it with Powerlogger connected. What happened is that even though the gauge reported correctly, the ECM showed 1/2.
So...just take this sensor and put it in the front of the intake where the temp warning light switch goes.
Connect the black wire to ground and the yellow wire to the temp sensor wire that you ran under the hood.
Oil pressure sensor:
This should go right in place of the stock sensor place. Update: You only need to run the tan wire in the middle of the plug to the gauge. The other two are for a switch that comes on when there is oil pressure. You could use this to trigger the fuel pump relay, so theoretically you would kill the fuel pump if oil pressure dropped completely.....but you would lose the prime feature and the car would take a long time to crank.
I think this covers all the wiring.
At this point, plug it in and make sure everything works before putting it back together.