Wrong plugs?

[LEGACY_GN]

These br7ef were recommended to me but the thread length is much longer. I have champion ported iron heads from early 90s

 

[pacecarta]

the long is for aluminum champion GN1
the short is for irons
..dont mix the usage

maybe they were confused by your sig that states GN1 long rod stroker ...when im pretty sure you mean gn1perf
87 Grand National
GN1 Long Rod Stroker Bored .20 over
GT 6152e Turbo
ATR Front Mount Intercooler
Champion intake and heads
215/220 Revolution X Roller Cam
Razor Alky
Bailey TR6 ignition
Precission Vigalante 5 disc Lock up stall
Billet Transmission
SC&C Adjustable Upper control arms
Varishocks all around with lowering springs

nothing in your sig to indicate that you're on irons
and doesnt matter 90s 2000s the champ irons are stock 8445 cores so the plug usage doesnt change
on my irons ive been running ac r42ts gapped tight and no misses at near 30psi

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Nope, this is the guy that put my motor together. He knows they are iron ported. SMH

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Thank God I caught the difference after the 4th plug.
Thank you for your help. Back to O'Reilly I go.

 

[pacecarta]

if you were after a colder plug than the br6fs, the equivalent to the r42ts is the br7fs

 

[LEGACY_GN]

I have the TR6 ignition now. Should I go with a colder plug?

 

[pacecarta]

ignition shouldnt change plug choice or gap , some say they can run wider gap with the tr6 but that leads to excessive load on the coil trying to spark at high boost ,,result is an early death of the coil pack and then misfires
when it comes to boosted you want a cold enough plug that wont hold heat and become a hot spot and wont be so cold as to foul out
but the trade off is that range may be too cold for normal driving and may foul sooner
the r43ts will run fairly clean normal driving and on alky should be ok to mid 20s boost provide the charge temps are dropping with the alky , above that boost level you're taking a gamble on preignition (the real parts killer) with a glowing plug and should run colder plug
like tuning where you want to start rich and tune leaner to see if there are gains rather than end up lean and torch a motor .. it always best to run colder plug first then work back toward a hotter plug rather than run too hot a plug and loose a motor

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Well, you had me convinced to go colder but when I called oreilly they said they didn't have a br7fs. I'll try some more places tomorrow. I think I can go colder though as the tr6 is a much stronger spark but I want to stick with the recessed electrode as I do believe that is beneficial to boosted cars.

 

[pacecarta]

i tried the autolite AR133 recessed plug but they didnt like normal street driving and fouled out quickly, to the point they were missing at idle
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ATO7/AR133.oap?pt=N0608
i had an old set of r42ts plugs i had removed after a precious track day so i tossed them in and they havent quit on me yet

heres a plug xref chart..
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/spark-plug-cross-reference.html

 

[LEGACY_GN]

I've never had any trouble with the br6fs and the ones I pulled all look good so I think I'll stick with them. May gap them wider for the TR6, still debating that. Only reason I pulled them was because the car won't idle and I wanted to see if I had a stuck injector. I don't. So now I will swap out the ecm and then the maf and then I'm out of ideas, lol. It just dies. BL drops 115 and the computer starves the motor even though wide band shows lean. For some reason the computer is reading a rich condition and pulling fuel till it dies. Driving it runs great. Just won't idle. Replaced IAC and 02 already. And on 3 separate occasions I went over every single vacuum line and intercooler pipe. Thank you for your help. Glad I didn't fire it up with those long plugs in there.

 

[horndog]

Go with the CR42TS