wont stay running & PL Readings, help please!

2dark2c

Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
I'm new to PL, so I don't really know what I'm suppose to be looking for.

87 GN was running fine before being parked for winter.
When I try to drive it now:
it won't stay running without giving it gas, and when I do give it gas, it feels like its ONLY getting (the initial, or just 1) squirt when I step on pedal.
Once that initial squirt is shot however, it feels like it isn't getting any more gas than that.
I have to keep constantly pumping the pedal for the car to stay moving.
If I DON'T give it any gas at all, it will idle/run just fine while its moving forward (but obviously very slow).

PL Files:

initial (cold) start-up:
I had to keep pumping gas or car would die.

warmed up:
in park, idling. once car is warmed up, it will stay running ok IF I don't give it gas.
if I give it gas, it wants to die.

Revved up file:
trying to give it gas, about 1/4 throttle, would start to rev up & then start to die (rpm drops off, even though I didn't let off gas).
tach inside never read more than about 2600 rpm (vdo & its accurate per SM, regardless of what PL says).

rail mounted FP gauge says: vac line on: 40, line off: 44
If I give it gas (idling in park), FP drops.
tested: pressure stays at 40 after car is shut off.

NO trouble codes registered.
exhaust smells like its running rich.

Fuel filter just replaced, no difference.
MAFTpro (mafless), TT chip, walbro 340, hotwire, adj FPR (these are prob at least 5 yrs old).
it has a new caspers vbooster installed (last summer & car was running ok).
vac lines were replaced (last summer) & all were ok.
aftermarket FP sensor (new last summer, for PL reading), might not be in sync with actual FP (I never calibrated/checked/sync'd the 2).

PL was installed with sensors/hook-ups (last summer) when car was running ok, but I didn't really have time to tune (adjust everything) with it.

so, why won't it stay running?
maybe bad gas, bad TPS, or ??

ANY ideas?

TIA!
 

Attachments

  • start-up.dat
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  • warmed-up-idling.dat
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  • trying-to-rev-it-up.dat
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At first I was going to say that you symptoms are exactly what one would expect with a MAF that has gone bad. But upon further reading I see you're running a Translator Pro, so no maf to go bad. There's not a lot in the PL files to indicate anything obvious, except in the trying to rev file, when ever you get up on the TPS and stay there, the thing is going full lean!! Your TPS seems to be normal. I doubt bad gas. Gotta figure out why it's going full lean when on the tps.

I see that you're NOT running an Extender Pro chip with your Translator Pro. This is really a must for everything in the Pro to work properly. TT chips can and do work well with other Translators, but not so much the Pro. But your car should at least run.

My only suggestion at this point is to go through ALL of your settings in the Pro and make sure they are correct.
 
I see that you're NOT running an Extender Pro chip with your Translator Pro. This is really a must for everything in the Pro to work properly. TT chips can and do work well with other Translators, but not so much the Pro. But your car should at least run.

My only suggestion at this point is to go through ALL of your settings in the Pro and make sure they are correct.

MAFTpro #'s checked good. Since the car didn't lose battery power & I don't mess with the Maftpro, I figured these settings would be ok, but checked anyways to be sure.

I've heard about using an Extender Pro chip with the maftpro before, but WHAT or WHY, is the reasoning behind this? (as opposed to the TT chip).

I also have a 6.0 TT chip as well (but haven't used it). It presently has the 5.7 chip in it. Figured I'd put the 6.0 in when I install the wideband kit.

I'm also running an alky kit, not sure if that matters or not with this problem.

The car ran really great for 3 years prior to this, so I'm kinda stumped right now on what the problem could be.

Thanks for the help!
 
Start here.

Bob

I upped the FP reg to 50 (vac line on & it took a lot to get it that high), helped a little (it idles better), but didn't cure, gauge shows still dropping when I give it gas.
so bad FP regulator? or maybe the gauge is just wrong?
FP relays & fuses are good. Any way to check the fuel pump without removal?

car also had a heated O2 sensor, which I replaced (finally got around to it). that didn't seem to make a difference at all, although it WAS really black in color.
 
Bad pump is my guess.

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In my case a ruptured diaphram in the FPR caused it to go up but only to a point not drop
 
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