Wonderful...CODE 31

That's exactly what my friend, Guy (BADDGUY) told me tonight. So, it's a good thing I had spare 10A fuses on the side and did away with the 20A fuse.

With the EGR solenoid unplugged and the 10A fuse in, the fuse blew out again sending out the SES light again. Last thing there is that I know of is the brake switch. Isnt it kinda bad to run without the brake switch? I wont unplug it till I'm certain that I can. But knowing the fuse blew, then the brake switch isnt running at all? I really dont know. I know the brake switch is somehow related to the TCC, and that it tells the TCC solenoid to unlock the torque converter. Maybe my TCC solenoid had gone bad?:mad: But still, in order for my fuse crap out, something had to be grounded out. My other friend, Jackson (Turbov6) suggested I hook up a light in between the ECM/SOL fuse and start playing with the wires and see if anythings pinched or grounding.

Stay tuned for this never ending saga.
 
Your friend Jackson has the right idea...I would check for a pinched wire or short to ground somewhere...If anything, take the car to a reputable automotive eletrical shop(place that specializes in rebuilding alts/starters, and electrical stuff) and tell them what is going on...They should be able to look at the wiring diagrams and be able to pinpoint the problem fairly quickly...

or better yet, give John Spina @ Casper's Electronics in Mundelein, IL a call...They know everything electrical all these cars and generally know exactly where the problem areas in the wiring systems are...A lot of times, it is the same spot where the wire shorts to ground...He can tell you exactly where to look...Kind of a long distance phone call for ya, but they know these cars...
 
My dad and I took the fluk meter and tested amperage on the ECM/SOL fuse. found that there was 30 amps from ground and power side of the ECM/SOL fuse. and with the fuse in, there was 12 amps on the 10A fuse. we doubt that this is normal, and probobly why the fuse has been busting out and possibly causing the code 31 reading. My dad said it could be regarding to my battery giving out a low voltage reading. I forgot what it was, but it was less than 12V. I also checked along the ECM plugs that there wasnt any corrosion. No corrosion there. I dont know any where else to check for corrosion between the solenoids and the ECM/SOL and from the ECM/SOL to the ECM itself. I also went over to have my friend Robert (HI85WH1) help me out. Busted out the GM manuals for the TR and started diagnosing again. We checked again with the wastegate solenoid, there was no voltage being read. I checked under the dash and come to find the fuse burnt out again, but this time, the SES light never came on. Probobly because I didnt have the car hit WOT on the way to his house. I put in the new fuse and voltage was 11.71V again. We were still puzzled at what could be making the fuse blow. Can the ECM itself make the fuse blow?
 
code 31, the death of us yet....

Chris, the manual shows 4 devices tied to the ECM/SOL fuse. The canister purge solenoid, wastegate solenoid, electronic vacuum regulator valve, and a brake switch which ties to the torque converter clutch. I take it you and your dad pulled the fuse and put an ammeter in it's place to read current. It seems we've ruled out the wastegate solenoid, canister purge solenoid, and elec vac reg valve. So, all that's left is the brake switch that is tied to the torque conv clutch. This switch isn't tied to your brake lights. It's part of the torque conv clutch switching. If you can disconnect that line, and you are still reading current draw on the ammeter, you have a pinched wire somewhere. If the current draw drops, something on that line is bad. Hope this helps.
 
Me...if I were in this jam - i'd call Caspers for sure.

He has definitely seen this before and will help ya out.

Or, option #2 (which might cost ya more than a long distance call) take it to a auto electrical shop.....
 
I've e-mailed John Spina of Casper's and he's helping me into finding a solution to this. John wrote in his e-mail to disconnect my EGR and Cannister Solenoid connectors and plug in a 5 amp fuse. The the fuse blew and sent out the SES light too. I'm going over to my friend's house, 85zoom, tonight and take more readings, and this time, I'm going to record them instead of trying to think from the top of my head. That way, I'll be more prepared to answer all of John Spina's other questions.
 
I have 4 different wiring diagrams, and they all show tied to the ECM fuse circuit are:
Wastegate solenoid
EGR
Canistier Purge solenoid
MAF sensor
Ignition module
Spark control module
(and none of these diagrams shows any relation of this circuit to the TCC circuit or brake switch?)

I had a bad ESC (spark control) module from the factory that wreaked havoc in my car for years, and I found out by accident that it was my problem! (one thing it did was caused a code 31)
 
code 31, the death of us yet........

I'd gladly give an arm to get an accurate schematic wiring diagram of my HotAir. Yes, I messed up............I trusted the Chilton manual. So, what wiring diagram CAN be trusted?????
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Code 31 Found

I owe it all to Gareth (85zoom) we tested out the amp socket again at both sides and using one ground, the body. we were getting reading from the left end of the socket, but we had a 00.00 reading on the right hand side. Automatically Gareth knew something was getting grounded. And the only thing we didnt check was the brake switch, because we assumed that nothing electrically was wrong with it. I pressed on the brake, and there it was...we had reading on the meter. Gareth had me check under the car by the tranny and the first thing I noticed was the plug that goes into the tranny. I pulled that one, and Gareth said there was a slight reading. I my hand along with the wire loom toward the firewall and Gareth said something there is triggering the reading. Gareth looked over head between the firewall and the engine, over the bellhouseing and noticed a small black wire. I went in and started moving it around and the readings on the meter became more erratic. There was our problem! It connected into a small plug behind the block. and along its route there was a bracket mounted by the tranny bolt. Gareth said that the wire must've gotten grounded there in the bracket. So with time and patients testing us, just to get that tranny bolt off to get to the bracket was a pain in the ass!!! but we suceeded into pulling it out. Putting the bolt back on was even harder! We took the car back out and made some runs, No SES light, no blown fuses!!! YAY!!!! From the looks of some things, this is just one of the few reasons that causes code 31. ALL IN ALL... PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
 
Congrats!!! :D

These cars can be such a pita at times, but when they are running right, you just forget about all the frustrations you had and take them out on your rear tires :D :D :D :D :D

Electrical problems are the worst...just takes time and patience...
 
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