New GM seal in 2008 from the dealer, car sits in garage 99% of the time and they are dry rotting. They must've been pretty old when I got them , and yes they were sealed. I used reproduction GM licensed door seals from Mikes Montes and they fit awesome and doors shut perfect.
Window weather stripping help
- Thread starter jrl2512
- Start date
and what a messy pain in the butt that is!! I got a little wire wheel for my Dremal tool and those channels were barfing black stuff EVERYWHERE for about an hour!
Then u get it finished and installed taking a day's work and then the SOB's leak!!! How fun it is. But mine not gm either!! O well live and learn!!!
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Absolutely!! I cleaned mine out with small hand wire brushes.
Yes, the window adjust booklet helps a lot. Although I was extremely lucky that mine didn't require adjusting. the window glass fit the strips pretty tightly so what I did was raise the windows with the doors open, then closed them and left them closed like that for several weeks (over the winter while I was doing other stuff). That left the weatherstipping with a window groove like you see in the original stuff after some time.
detaildave
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2006
I've used Metro Moulded seals in my Buick(T Top) and have always had great luck with them . I sell MMP Seals and have installed at least 10 sets on G Bodys with no issues.There has got to be an issue with the door or glass . and of course you must clean all of the old seal and debris out of the channel . Metro stands behind their product ( with a 15 year warranty ) (the picture looks like the glass needs to go back a bit to solve the problem (measure the distance of the glass on the left side "distance to b pillar " and check the forward and back travel adjustments )
You must not have seen my photos.
Here they are again.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1169...s/6004298778892587937?authkey=CNC-vdKr8KuY1QE
The adjustment you are talking about is not the problem. If you look at the photo jim0207 posted, look not where his finger is but instead along the horizontal section of the weatherstrip toward the front of the car. This is hard to see if you haven't tried to install this defective weatherstrip. As the weatherstrip goes forward along the horizontal section, the depression starts. On my Metro roof rail seals this depression was a quarter-inch deep. And there was a second depression just behind the 45-degree angle.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I just installed SoffSeal roof rail weatherstripping and it was a simple installation. I did read about some folks finding depressions in the seals. In the upper corners by the opera windows, the cavity inside the weatherstrip was sunken in a little. There are access holes in the weatherstripping in that corner. I took some old weatherstripping that I pulled out and shoved some into those cavities to fill the depressions. Made a big difference in that area. I had to adjust my passenger window quite a bit but it would blow out at highway speeds anyhow with the old weatherstripping. Took a while to get it right but so far, a dollar bill drags just about everywhere on the window. Now I need to drive the car and listen for wind noise.
Cleaning out the channels was not bad. I used little screwdrivers to scrape with and lacquer thinner to melt the old adhesive. The thinner did nothing to the black finish and since they are aluminum, the scratches inside will never rust. There was not that much old adhesive. The factory only put it in the upper corners of each window and at the ends of the channels with a few spots here and there. Spread it thin, it will skin over in a few minutes and then you can press the seal in to it. The seals fit the channels really well and I used a putty knife to press them in.
Other than being time consuming, it was kind of fun. Took me about 2 hours during the week to clean out the channels, about 30 minutes to reinstall the channel and weatherstrip per side. Then it took several hours to adjust the window because it was my first time. You can adjust the stops at the front and rear ends of the glass, the lean in and out overall, and the lean at the rear. And you can just remove the upper door panel only and do all this.
Cleaning out the channels was not bad. I used little screwdrivers to scrape with and lacquer thinner to melt the old adhesive. The thinner did nothing to the black finish and since they are aluminum, the scratches inside will never rust. There was not that much old adhesive. The factory only put it in the upper corners of each window and at the ends of the channels with a few spots here and there. Spread it thin, it will skin over in a few minutes and then you can press the seal in to it. The seals fit the channels really well and I used a putty knife to press them in.
Other than being time consuming, it was kind of fun. Took me about 2 hours during the week to clean out the channels, about 30 minutes to reinstall the channel and weatherstrip per side. Then it took several hours to adjust the window because it was my first time. You can adjust the stops at the front and rear ends of the glass, the lean in and out overall, and the lean at the rear. And you can just remove the upper door panel only and do all this.
I just installed Metro roof rail weatherstrip on passenger side. After an hour of adjusting the window it looks perfect when I opened the door, raised the window and then closed the door. The problem is when I lower the window and then raise it with the door shut. I guess I don't have that factory groove. So is leaving the door shut with window up for weeks the best remedy? Would like to do the driver's side after I get the passenger side sorted out.
Since my last post (10/28/15) I put up the window, closed the door, backed it into my garage, and wedged a shower rod between the wall stud and window. I just checked on its progress. Window seals much better now! Not quite perfect but maybe 95%. I would give it 75% before the shower rod procedure.
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