Winaldl Interface Cable
- Thread starter PaulRV6
- Start date
J
jones
Guest
winaldl
I am planning on trying this out over the weekend.
Will see if it works,
I am planning on trying this out over the weekend.
Will see if it works,
I just build it. Two 10k ohm 1/4 W resistors and just about any NPN transistor. 2N2222A, 2N3904, etc. All Radio Shack parts.
Make sure you connect to ALDL A and E (signal).
When you get it going, check the retard values. I think they are double what they should be. The formula for conversion is half of spark.
I sent them an email asking about this. Either way, it is an excellent program. You might want to consider a small donation. I did. Once of the few times I was impressed enough to actually hand over money for freeware.
Terry Kelley
GMEPro
Make sure you connect to ALDL A and E (signal).
When you get it going, check the retard values. I think they are double what they should be. The formula for conversion is half of spark.
I sent them an email asking about this. Either way, it is an excellent program. You might want to consider a small donation. I did. Once of the few times I was impressed enough to actually hand over money for freeware.
Terry Kelley
GMEPro
Did you use a connector for the ALDL or just wire it to the individual pins? I considered building one of these, but after spending several hours trying to source the ALDL connector, finally gave up. 
If you have a source for the connector, please post it!
Thanks!
If you have a source for the connector, please post it! Thanks!
I have ALDL plugs so I used that. All you have to do is connect to pin E for the signal and ground. Make sure you connect ALDL A to pin pin 5 of the RS232 connector (it also goes to the emitter of the transistor).
One option is to get a 5 pin DIN cable and socket from Radio Shack. Mount it near the ALDL connector, cut off the cable and wire it to the circuit. Then you can disconnect the scanner cable when not in use.
One option is to get a 5 pin DIN cable and socket from Radio Shack. Mount it near the ALDL connector, cut off the cable and wire it to the circuit. Then you can disconnect the scanner cable when not in use.
The reason I asked about the 12v source is because I only had 9.3v out of pin 4 and I could npot get data to the program. I figured that was my problem. So I will try the 12v source.
I could not find an ALDL plug anywhere so what I did was just crimped some straight connectors on and pushed those into the ALDL. I would also like to find a male ALDL connector to make it cleaner.
paul
I could not find an ALDL plug anywhere so what I did was just crimped some straight connectors on and pushed those into the ALDL. I would also like to find a male ALDL connector to make it cleaner.
paul
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I just made a cable. $1.76 worth of Radio Shack parts, some old heavy gauge speaker wire and a 9-pin connector. I should rebuild the connector so it's less fragile but it worked using their schematic. Pretty cool! Peak hold is good, but need more tweaking; TPS on the Dash button is way off. Everything else matched up with Scanmaster readings. I emailed the author Jonas with a few questions.
J
jones
Guest
okay, my first try was a no go.
Do you need a 12v source (not pin 4?)
Can some one that has had succes please email me the specific to ouy car wiring instructions, I seem to be making this more difficult than it needs to be!
Thanks for the help
(Baby steps keep head gaskets intact)
jtm68@cox.net
Do you need a 12v source (not pin 4?)
Can some one that has had succes please email me the specific to ouy car wiring instructions, I seem to be making this more difficult than it needs to be!
Thanks for the help
(Baby steps keep head gaskets intact)
jtm68@cox.net
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Sorry for not checking back for such a long time. I just followed what he said to do, stick the wires into the A&E ports of the ALDL. I had to try it twice but it did come up. Don't use the 10K resistor between A&B; you don't need it and it will retard the timing like crazy (31° at idle on Scanmaster, not knock, just retard). As for the questions, here were mine:
1. When you open the program, it starts logging immediately. Is there any way to delay this so it can be started with the spacebar or something? And stopped as well with a key, preferably the spacebar?
2. On the Dash portion of the program, everything seems to work properly except the TPS voltage. Mine shows 9.8 when actually it is .42. It doesn't go up or down with changes in throttle position either. Also there is only a "tenths" reading on the main page for TPS. Can I adjust that to show hundredths?
Jonas said he would check out #2. He didn't have any advice for #1.
That's it.
A very slow update is what I noticed. It is probably no better than a Scanmaster so fine tuning with this program isn't going to happen like Turbolink (used it once) and it's light years behind DS from what I hear about DS (no experience). HTH
1. When you open the program, it starts logging immediately. Is there any way to delay this so it can be started with the spacebar or something? And stopped as well with a key, preferably the spacebar?
2. On the Dash portion of the program, everything seems to work properly except the TPS voltage. Mine shows 9.8 when actually it is .42. It doesn't go up or down with changes in throttle position either. Also there is only a "tenths" reading on the main page for TPS. Can I adjust that to show hundredths?
Jonas said he would check out #2. He didn't have any advice for #1.
That's it.
A very slow update is what I noticed. It is probably no better than a Scanmaster so fine tuning with this program isn't going to happen like Turbolink (used it once) and it's light years behind DS from what I hear about DS (no experience). HTH
