Which route should I go

LilSpann601 said:
wlel do you know where i can get an intake

Save this e-bay search:

buick turbo, All matching items for sale.

Stuff always shows up here sometimes real cheap.
Get the OEM numbers for early Regal turbo intakes from Rich's site. Keep the carb you have. Get OEM numbers for early Regal turbo plenums too.

The latest you can go are 83's on all carbed turbo stuff. And if you choose to buy from e-bay always ask the seller for OEM numbers!! (If you don't you'll get screwed).
 
Ive been searching for about 5 months ive only seen 1 intake on there but it was the whole carb turbo setup...but today i won a edelbrock performer intake...just to experiment with...while the motor is still at the machine shop should i match the edelbrock intake manifold with the edelbrock 5487 cam...or just go turbo cam....and the guy who machined the motor said he didnt have to bore it should i use the same pistons or go with forged or turbo
 
Get a later OEM GN cam. Forget other cams unless you want to have the heads machined more. Even the Edelbrock cam need to have the heads machined for higher lift.

If thats what you want....go for it. (The Buick cams do not need machining).
 
so any cam bigger than stock can't be put in without machining the heads? Never read anything about that? Or is it because a difference in the head gaskets and deck/ piston height difference between IC engines and earlier??? Please explain:eek:
 
With lifts above .420 the retainers will hit the exhaust guides. Cams with lifts above .420 need the guides to be shortened. A professional Buick engine rebuilder would know this. It has nothing to do with deck clearance or IC engines. Just the way V-6 engines from '75 on up are designed.

If the engine needs a cam, get a OEM stocker from a GN for a little more 'umf'.
No need to cut anything on the heads.

If you go higher lift, more work, more cash, more time. In addition to that, you may have to get after-market valve covers for the higher clearance. ;)

Good luck!
 
I'll just run it till it gernades:rolleyes: Besides the car should:rolleyes: be looking good when it gets done so it will need a better motor to go with it:cool:
 
update: machine guy told me the motor was already bored .30...I picked up a new std crankshaft kit, new turbo cam to throw in it...im thinking of getting forged turbo pistons...the machine guy asked me did i want him to put it back together but i declined because the price was already at 450.00 and i had spent 350 for the crankshaft and turbo cam...so i decided to i guess rebuilding it from the bottom up...I have a haynes manual for a 3.8....this actually my first engine build but i know what to do after reading the haynes manual and looking around on this forum....When i do pick up the block I hope i can take some pics
 
You don't really need forged pistons, (unless you're working on a 500 HP + racer). Get hyper pistons. Cheaper and made by Sealed Power. They even have the valve slits on the piston heads to prevent valve-train damage. (Those are the ones I have).

Have your machinist install the pistons onto the rods, (that requires special equiptment). Also have him install the cam bearings and rear cam plug. Very important!

The rest is standard mechanical build-up you can handle with a good Chilton's/Haynes book and a Buick shop manual.
 
A standard water neck cover will work u would just have to extend the radiator hose about 5 incheswhere the tope hose meets the radiator.Hope u get it, and true, very fragile aluminium.
 
A standard water neck cover will work u would just have to extend the radiator hose about 5 incheswhere the tope hose meets the radiator.....

It's very problematic. I have one. The top feed thermo cover is best!
But yes, you can get by with the standard. :rolleyes:
 
oh yeah and the guy i bought the buick regal turbo charger from said it was set for 8lbs of boost or some ****...so he told me when i here skeltons (pinging) to get out of it...should I get forged pistons to best suit this application?
 
You don't need forged pistons. THe plan is to run boost with out knock and you won't have to worry about it.
 
i opened the cam box today its a comp cam 212 212 i was reading it said something about i need comp cam lifters...is all this bs necessary?
 
I'm sure you can use any lifters, but they have to be new and of decent quality-gm lifters would be the best.
 
What kind of setup did u have on top of that manifold ( the one on e-bay) how did that work out for ya throwin a 4barrel on the NA?
 
One of the tricks I've learned is to take the guts out of new lifters and drain the solvent out of them lect from manufacturing. I've always found just a bit of it in all of them I've checked.
 
damn i wonder what will happen if i use my stock pistons...the machine guy said the were in good condition...and use the comp cam with stock valve springs and lifter...would this combo work ...i dont plan on racing... I also plan on sealing the egr port...
 
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