Ok so I got my WE4 yesturday and took a quick look at the block that is in the trunk of the car. I was told that it was a main bearing that had spun on this motor. It turns out that it was the number one rod bearing and possibly number two but I didn't have time to look real close and take it apart. Which is worst on these cars, rod or main and is there such a thing as an easy fix or should just have the short block rebuilt? Thanks
Which is worst???
- Thread starter XBreed
- Start date
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Beings it's in the trunk witha spun bearing I'd have to say a FULL rebuild.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
why what happeneds
Usually it causes Global Warming and then we get to listen to that BLOW HARD Al Gore blame us for all of the worlds problems..........
Or........it causes some new guy/gal to post questions like: Hey I rebuilt my engine, ok, I just replaced one half of a rod bearing, 'cause my best friends dad's cousin worked for GM on the Saturn assembly line and he said that I only needed to replace the worn half of the bearing shell, so anyway it makes a funny noise, and what could it be? I KNOW it's not bearings, 'cause I just fixed the one bad one, and I really need to know if it's a fuel pump making the noise or is it a wheel weight coming loose???
If the engine is out, go through it completely. That doesn't mean you have to buy a stroker crank or forged pistons, but have it machined or at least checked by an EXPERIENCED Buick V6 shop. If it costs a few bucks more to have knowlegable guy do the work, it is WELL worth it. These engines aren't rocket science (though they CAN feel like they go like a ROCKET!
) BUT, they do have certain quirks about them, and need to be checked out/fixed/assembled by someone in-the-know.All worst is bad. Weather it is rodworst or mainworst.
And all can be caused by knockworst. And if this particular type of worst you have encountered has manifested itself into the worst type trunkworst.......................
And it sounds as if this is what you have contracted.
Seek experienced advice from the many TB brethern that have battled and won over this enemy.
While heading advise of others be carefull. While many of us appear to be worst free some are still carriers....:biggrin:
And all can be caused by knockworst. And if this particular type of worst you have encountered has manifested itself into the worst type trunkworst.......................
And it sounds as if this is what you have contracted.
Seek experienced advice from the many TB brethern that have battled and won over this enemy.
While heading advise of others be carefull. While many of us appear to be worst free some are still carriers....:biggrin:
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
mine has made it over 200 miles so far-with heavy petting:biggrin: Doggie...doggie...doggie-You're petting too hard!
I need help finding a good shop who knows what they are doing. either in minnesota or Chicago area. I have not been able to find one yet though. I would like to have a forged short block, I think a stock crank would be fine but that is what i would like. I was planning on going through the whole thing just wondering what everyones thoughts were on it. If anyone can help that would be much appreciated. thanks
XBreed
XBreed
Are you sure it's the #1 rod? Most of the time it's #5 or #6. First do the oiling system mods to the block and timing cover while it's apart. I.E. carefully drill the last three main feed holes to 21/64 for better bottom end oiling, radius the bends in the block and timing cover, and do overall prep to the block while you're looking for a good shop.
meanchicken
gallo vicioso
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2007
Yup...full rebuild time. The metal shavings are throughout the oiling system. You also don't know if the block needs to be line honed and bored until you have it out...so....just get 'er done...done right...or you'll be doing it again soon.
A good slightly better than stock rebuilt motor with forged bottom end will run you around $6K (removed and installed by a pro). Knock a thousand or so off if you remove and install it your self. If you want a bunch of speed parts, then it gets rediculous from there. If your goals are like mine....into the high 11's...you don't need to go crazy with speed parts. Just Alky, good head gaskets and bottom end, downpipe, cold air kit, larger neck IC, cat back, and keep the boost max'd at no more than 20 for reliability.
When you put the rebuilt motor back in, if you're using the same radiator, be sure to remove the oil cooling adaptor and lines and do not use the oil cooler. The oil cooler tank in the radiator is now fouled with metal shavings and it's impossible to get it clean. You'll screw up your new motor.
Also be sure to clean out the turbo oil lines before reinstalling them....or get a new one.
A good slightly better than stock rebuilt motor with forged bottom end will run you around $6K (removed and installed by a pro). Knock a thousand or so off if you remove and install it your self. If you want a bunch of speed parts, then it gets rediculous from there. If your goals are like mine....into the high 11's...you don't need to go crazy with speed parts. Just Alky, good head gaskets and bottom end, downpipe, cold air kit, larger neck IC, cat back, and keep the boost max'd at no more than 20 for reliability.
When you put the rebuilt motor back in, if you're using the same radiator, be sure to remove the oil cooling adaptor and lines and do not use the oil cooler. The oil cooler tank in the radiator is now fouled with metal shavings and it's impossible to get it clean. You'll screw up your new motor.
Also be sure to clean out the turbo oil lines before reinstalling them....or get a new one.
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
It cool man. I was looking to do a forged bottom end and I found a guy near me that says he knows what he is doing. I am getting references from him today sometime. He said he will rebuild the short block for 1500 stock and price goes up from there. As for the oiling system. It has an aftermarket oiling system on it it is called PT&E remote oil system, Kenne Bell Billet oil filler tube, Kenne Bell oil pressure booster plate? Any saving these items?? Thanks guys.
I would keep the PTE setup, probably ditch the kenne bell stuff.
meanchicken
gallo vicioso
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2007
Knows what he's doing with engines in general...or knows what he's doing with Turbo Buicks?
There's a difference...
Make sure it's the latter....or your chances of needing to look for another builder in a few months are quite high.
....And you'll want to be sure that his machinist has good Turbo Buick experience and references too.
Meanchicken, i appreciate what you are telling me but you stated that it is going to cost me about 6k to rebuild the motor in this car, but I can go to one of the vendors on this site and grab up a long block that is capable of like 400 hp or something and pay I think it was around 3500.00. That is a far cry from your 6k. The builder stated that he had a lot of experience with TR and would warr it for 90 days. Not long but that is what he said. I am doing my research. And thanks again but your numbers are a little off. I will continue to look.
