Voltage shown under boost?

Down...

..to about 12.2 or so...and I'm getting false knock under boost...10 lbs with eric's chip and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of knock showing on the SM. Thanks for the continued help...
 
Re: Down...

Originally posted by Robbie-87plz
..to about 12.2 or so...and I'm getting false knock under boost...10 lbs with eric's chip and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of knock showing on the SM. Thanks for the continued help...
Click to expand...

On the scanmaster you lose some of the voltage there so it's not accurate. You probally lose about 1/2 volt at the sm. Don't knwo about the know but at 10lbs that's not good.
 
Gotta love 'em...

That's the thing I love/hate about these cars...the complexity/the simpleness, the rewards/failures..oh well, it's all a bad memory when you hit boost and the Hand of God pushes you back into your seat...:eek: :D :cool:
 
Again...

...I keep dropping voltage when the car is under boost...causing the knock...could it be...the alternator is bad? I replaced the belt, so I don't think it's the belt that's slipping...
 
Re: Again...

Originally posted by Robbie-87plz
...I keep dropping voltage when the car is under boost...causing the knock...could it be...the alternator is bad? I replaced the belt, so I don't think it's the belt that's slipping...
Click to expand...

If you are looking at the sm voltage at 12.20 under should be ok. If the alternator is bad the idiot light will come on. The knock might be something else.
 
Possibility that Checkers could have sold me a bad alternator? And the knock, I'm thinking that if there's not enough juice to detonate the mix, that could be related to the knock? Or am I going off on a tangent??? Thanks for the reply...:( :confused:
 
Originally posted by Robbie-87plz
Possibility that Checkers could have sold me a bad alternator?
Click to expand...

When you first turn on the key does the volt light come on? A bad volatge regulator the idiot light will light on. Just to make shure it's the alternator you can take it off bring it back to checkers and have them load test it or use a multi-meter and check voltage at the battery. Low voltage should not cause knock but I can be wrong.
 
Re: Down...

Originally posted by Robbie-87plz
..to about 12.2 or so...and I'm getting false knock under boost...10 lbs with eric's chip and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of knock showing on the SM. Thanks for the continued help...
Click to expand...
What's your fuel pressure & chip timing at? Can you take some timing out of the chip? And are you running Alky?
 
Running an Eric Marshal (sp?) 92* chip with no alchy... fuel pressure was set by Mick at I think 44-45 line off..as for timing, I'll check up on it, I believe that there are provisions to alter it...

Funny thing is I'm only getting the 11.8 voltage at the SM under boost, cruising, it's fine...

Read somewhere here that if the voltage is low under boost, feed less fuel voltage=less fuel=knock...

Turning the key, no voltage idiot light...only thing I could possibly think of, is there's a layer of something on the belt to preserve it, and it slips under boost...as soon as it wears off...no more idiot light/low boost...:confused:
 
Robbie does the volts light come on at all in the dash? I believe the light bulb itself for the volts light is part of the charging system, if it's not working from being burned out or having a bad connection then you will be running straight off the battery. So check the obvious first and make sure the volts light illuminates when you key on the car. FYI, I had around 14 volts at idle and 13.2 - 13.3 volts under boost when I owned the car.
 
The volt light illuminates when it drops below 13 I think...
Put the car in drive today, built about 4 lbs o' boost and no knock...will try it again at lunch time and see what the volts drop to...

This has never happened before to me, just this last week after I replaced the alternator, battery and belt. The car ran like a dream when I first got it from Mick...I don't know what I'm doing wrong...
 
I would take Jackson's advice and have the new alternator checked out, my preference however would be to take it to a reputable shop like Wayne's Auto Electric on Queen Street instead of Checker's. No offense to the Checker's shoppers here but I could never bring myself to buy auto parts from them, seems too much like a 7-11 to me.;) I'll stick with Redline Automotive with real (IMO) parts/car people behind the counter and name brand parts like Delco etc....:cool:
 
Will do that on Saturday...have them check out the alternator...
Anyone have some tips on me using a multimeter? I've never used one and I'll buy one tomorrow to check out the charging system...
Interesting that SM has a few faults of its own, one of which deals with lower than actual voltage...
Thanks for the invaluable help...without you guys, I'd be lost...
 
Light Bulb..

I found something out...
running down the highway at 55 miles an hr...in nuetral and revving the engine, the voltage drops to 12 and change...and the idiot light is dim, no longer bright...since the light is running in series? with the charging system, it no longer provides sufficient power to the fuel pump, which in turn is sending less fuel than is need, creating knock???

Where do I get a idiot light bulb for the volt idiot light...whoa I'm speaking in tongues here...:cool:
 
Part #?

Part number for the light?

I went by Wayne's Auto Electic place and they were closed...so I'll be hitting them up later this week. My job doesn't allow me time off, so maybe I'll try them after work...anyone know when they're open til?
 
Grease?

Took apart the dash, replaced the bulb and seems ok for now. What's the best lubricant to use on the electrical contacts? I'm thinking di-electric grease...any thoughts?
 
Update

Took the alternator out, had it benched at over 14 volts. Brand new belt in there. Anyone ever had a belt excessively slip causing issues?
 
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