Vacuum pump with vacuum brakes

[V6POWER]

I can't build boost at the line since I converted to vacuum brakes. Car pushes through the lights at 2-3# boost. Would this item help me be able to keep vacuum up while building boost?

http://www.mpbrakes.com/ac2724k.htm

 

[Turbo6inKY]

For $400, I'd just put the PowerMaster back on.

 

[V6POWER]

If I can get the vacuum brakes to work then I would like to stick with them. I hate buying new parts for the pm because they are getting expensive. I could probably find a cheaper pump elsewhere if that is the route I take.

 

[Roger]

Complete PM rebuilt with lifetime warranty $149 at Advance Auto Parts & possibly other competitors.

 

[V6POWER]

Price is up to $350 from Advance.

 

[Spdrcer34]

As of when?

A few months ago, yes it was going for ~$130.

Have you checked the price lately?

$347.99

That's about a 260% price jump.

Ryan

 

[ttypewe4jim]

Originally posted by Spdrcer34
As of when?

A few months ago, yes it was going for ~$130.

Have you checked the price lately?

$347.99

That's about a 260% price jump.

Ryan

i checked with autozone and them about 2 weeks ago and i think that was the price it was right by that if thats not it....thats why we went with vacaum(sp) brakes.....

some of the ty/sy guys trow a couple revs in N before they bulid boost and that sapposedly helps i havent been able to try got a bent rod in my typhoon

 

[geno]

I used a 85 Caddy or Cavalier pump i got from a wrecking yard

 

[V6POWER]

geno---Did you have trouble holding boost with vacuum brakes? Did the pump cure the problem and how much boost can you hold using the pump?

 

[Red Regal T]

If you want a caddy vacuum pump, I have one for $60 shipped. I don't really think vacuum pumps do anything for braking unless you have low vacuum in your engine.

 

[HyperV6]

You may need to adjust your rear brakes with the star wheels to tighten them up. My car would push in the lights too until I got the rears adjusted. I've been leaving at aprox. 2000 rpm. With my orginal pm I would light the prestage, build up the rpm's and bump into the stage beam. This doesn't work so well with the vaccum setup. I still trying to get staging down with the vaccum setup. I've been thinking about trying a vaccum reservior and seeing if this helps for $30 (Summit).

Craig

 

[Geoff87]

If you haven't already installed these, install some wheel cylinders from an '84-'85 S-10 Blazer with manual brakes, along with some soft, organic compound brake shoes.

Make sure that the shoes are making full contact with the drum when you are braking; remove the drum, and look at the wear on the shoes. If not, tighten them up to wear them down until they do.

 

[ijames]

Also make sure the check valve on the vacuum booster is in good shape. Let the engine idle a bit then shut it off, wait a few seconds, and count how many pumps of the brake pedal you get before the pedal goes hard. Should get at least 2; I think I get 3 or maybe 4. If it's hard the first pump then the check valve is bad.

 

[V6POWER]

I have the S-10 cylinders and new organic shoes. The brakes are adjusted so they just drag. I tested the valve with a Mity Vac before I the installed the booster in the car. I will take off the drum and see how the shoes are wearing. Thanks for the replies.

 

[Geoff87]

Just curious....

Are you using a line lock to do your burnouts, prior to staging? If not you might be heating the brakes too much. Just a thought.

 

[V6POWER]

I have the line lock, also.

 

[HyperV6]

There is no doubt a properly working PM is the best for building boost and bumping into the lights at the line. But after two PM failures while driving, I'll stick with my vaccum setup. You could get one of those launch kits from Ron's Custom Auto. It allows you while staging to apply 100% of your braking pressure to the rear brakes. Ron told me this would eliminate all pushing threw the light problems. I haven't bought / tried this myself. So, contact Ron for more info.

Craig