Gknational
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2023
Anyone running a axis setup, how do you like it? Does it work good.
I have been running the Axis with a 3.5" LS1 MAF from Eric in my 86 GN and like it. A few pros are you don't need to have the chip re-burnt to up the boost. I've ran mine from 17 to 30 lbs depending on the fuel octane on the same chip. I do monitor fueling via powerlogger and a Scanmaster and do have to add fuel in the chip as temps drop. Another pro is any fuel and spark offsets cannot be lost if the ECU looses power.
Making fuel and spark adjustments does require popping the hood and turning the dials in the Axis box. This takes more time than Eric's other chips that use the scanmaster and gas pedal from the drivers seat to adjust.
I have a 2nd axis on order right now for my WE4.
The Axis box itself cannot be used to adjust the boost level. In the Axis box there are dip switches to setup the system for the type of MAF and other options like the use of Alky. There are dials to adjust fuel and spark offsets. The instructions for the Axis setup are on TurboTweak.com and you can read through all the options the unit can do.No, and of course you need a lot of supporting mods for this I meant on the axis system like is it a dial or something?
I have a big list of stuff that’s going on to support the higher boost I’m gonna run
Ok so unrelated question, what is the need for a manual boost controller and the adjustable Waste gate rod. I’m just wondering cause I don’t know. Thanks in advance.The Axis box itself cannot be used to adjust the boost level. In the Axis box there are dip switches to setup the system for the type of MAF and other options like the use of Alky. There are dials to adjust fuel and spark offsets. The instructions for the Axis setup are on TurboTweak.com and you can read through all the options the unit can do.
I'm adjusting boost by running a combination of an adjustable wastegate actuator rod and a manual boost controller. I'm no longer using the factory wastegate solenoid.
Ok that’s what I figured, I just didn’t know if their was a reason behind both. ThanksGo read the basics on this site. And the tuning section. Technical Pages
Link^^^
The boost controller causes a restriction on the pressure line to the wastegate. The more the restriction the more boost it takes to open the wastegate. Basically tricking the wastegate. For example. My wastegate has an 18 pound spring in it. But with my boost controller I can turn it up as high as I want.
Both are not needed to up the boost pressure . My car already had the adjustable wastegate rod on it when I picked it up. I added the manual boost controller because its relatively cheap and gives me more tuning options. The manual boost controller is adjusting the pressure signal to the wastegate actuator and the adjustable wastegate rod is adjusting the amount of spring pressure on the wastegate puck. What I found on my car is I can better control the boost curve by fine tuning both, I've been able to tune a consistent boost pressure throughout a WOT run without spikes/creep. Having powerlogger and logging boost pressure makes it easy to monitor this. Watching a scanmaster or boost gauge during a run makes capturing this info hard, at least for me for anywayOk so unrelated question, what is the need for a manual boost controller and the adjustable Waste gate rod. I’m just wondering cause I don’t know. Thanks in advance.
You get a signal off of the map sensor on the passenger side fender. Upgrade to a 3 bar map sensor. The instructions for the powerlogger explain everythingYeah I just bought a powerlogger just waiting on the dude to ship it. How did you connect ur boost too it?
Tie into the green wire on your MAP sensor then run that wire to the PL I/O board.Yeah I just bought a powerlogger just waiting on the dude to ship it. How did you connect ur boost too it?
You wont need too in most cases.Nothing wrong with Axis, but I wasn't interested in getting in/out of the car to make fueling/timing adjustments.