Troubleshooting early SMC alcohol injection kit

A

Awesome T

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2002
Guys,

I have an earlier dual-nozzle, round bottle kit from SMC (2002 era). The car has sat a long time, and the alky system doesn't spray now. I have the bottle out of the car, and the pump out of the bottle, and when hooked directly to a battery, the pump runs what seems OK. The electrical connector that goes from pump to bottle might be the problem. There is electrical continuity from the red wire to the center pin on the threaded brass thing, but there is no continuity from the black connector to the metal wall arond the pin. Is this the problem? Also, what do you call that brass threaded connector thing, and where do I get one? Thanks. John.
 
The very best thing you can do is to call Steve C. at SMC tomorrow and talk to him. He is a really nice guy and will sometimes correct the issue for the price of shipping.
 
I would just forward this message via email to Steve Chuspla (spelling...), SMC owner.... he'll help you out.... I've heard nothing but praise regarding his customer service.... and he'll be able to send you out the part as well... (likely for free...) :cool:
 
OK,

I will contact him. I emailed him when I thought it was a dead pump, and he had no replacements, but found out you can use the Dodge minivan fuel pump. But as it appears to be the electrical wiring to the pump, maybe he can help. Thanks.
 
You can bypass that connector with thick gauge wiring direct to the pump, teflon coated, or suitable jacketed wire to withstand alky.

Drill out the center of the connector just big enough to fit the wire out.

Copper RTV stands up okay to ethanol alky. to seal up the connector, or else find a suitable epoxy resin or sealer.

Make the connections up outside the bottle to the controller with a molex, or any other type connector you want, wire nuts work just fine too. :)

Easy to do if you can take the pump in and out of the tank yourself. :cool:
 
salvageV6 said:
You can bypass that connector with thick gauge wiring direct to the pump, teflon coated, or suitable jacketed wire to withstand alky.

Drill out the center of the connector just big enough to fit the wire out.

Copper RTV stands up okay to ethanol alky. to seal up the connector, or else find a suitable epoxy resin or sealer.

Make the connections up outside the bottle to the controller with a molex, or any other type connector you want, wire nuts work just fine too. :)

Easy to do if you can take the pump in and out of the tank yourself. :cool:
Click to expand...


Correct. I dont agree with the wire nuts tho :redface:

Problem comes from using epoxy to seal the bottom of the bulkhead. The fumes from the alcohol breakdown the epoxy and rot out the tin from the rca terminal that provides power to the pump. Nothing sticks to brass.. that is why the epoxy allowed the alky to get to the terminal. Again this is circa 2002 era. Making the connection outside the tank will solve getting power to the pump.
 
My headlights have large gauge wire and wirenuts on them from 1995. :p

They work just fine under a car hood, no terminals to come loose make a very tight connection.

Wrap some scotch 33+ tape around them if you think mice or squirrels will go in there and unscrew them. :p

That's against most electrical codes however since the wire nut is designed to do all the work itself. :cool:

You can use a terminal strip with (4) #6 screws as well and some small spade lugs but that setup would have to be insulated some way.

Molex connector if you think you need to take it apart a lot, but that requires a decent skill with a crimp tool or excellent soldering skills.

Or you could just solder them inline with shrink wrap or tape over the splice. :)
 
Say what you will.. wire nuts dont belong under the hood of a car. Especially on a critical connection going to a pump which if it develops an issue can cuase catastrophic damage to an engine. :eek:

Get a weather pack kit from NAPA or solder the connections and use heat shrink over them.

I guess duct tape, bailing wire, scotch tape, chewing gum, etc can work for some, its not the advisable method. :rolleyes:

Unless finding a reason for an argument is the underlying issue. :eek:
 
What exactly do you think wire nuts were designed for? :rolleyes:

A critical connection would be any high voltage/current line in your house too, one would think, all held together by WIRENUTS. :p

Strain relieve the wires with GASP zip ties, also a part not belonging under the hood of most cars some say, and then wire nut them. :cool:

Easy on easy off good for high current when properly sized like any other mating connector. :eek:

A weatherpak kit takes FAR more skill to install properly than a simple wirenut connection. Not worth the trouble and certainly no stronger a connection.

I've never seen any corrosion or problems with them in the dash or under the hood. :)

You are the one who brought up the wire nut argument not me. :biggrin:

Look in the mirror for those underlying issues. :p

I've seen duct tape on NASCAR $$$ racers, bailing wire on semi trucks, but scotch tape will come off in the heat and cold cycling, and I don't chew gum but have been known to use JB weld for lots of repairs. ;)

Not to mention they make direct bury wire nuts too, if you really want a weatherproof connection, not needed for under the hood though.

Take the experience over the theory. :eek:
 
When "any" automotive manufacturer starts to use wire nuts.. I'll rethink this position.

Wire nuts are not for automotive use. Dont care if you tape them, lick them, hide them, etc. Solder and heat shrink is, or using terminals not designed to get moisture in them. "Especially on a connection that can cuase catastrophic results". Its not splicing some stupid speaker wire.

Winter must be here :rolleyes: Let the debate continue.. I know nothing I will write will sway you from using wire nuts, but thats ok.. I dont deal with you anyways. I hope those reading these threads will be able to make their own minds up as to what is proper or isnt.

I just thought of another perfect place for wire nuts.. inside the fuel tank making the electrical connections to the pump :D
 
You don't deal with me but certainly like writing not so well informed replies to my solutions. :p

Here's hint for you, manufacturers rarely if ever solder a connection and cover it with shrink tubing. :rolleyes:

But that wouldn't stop me from saying it's an alright solution if you can solder decently. ;)

Wire nuts are easier for the average repair that may need to be undone and tested on occasion. :p

And they make waterproof ones as well but certainly aren't needed. :cool:

Better go check all your outdoor wirng both high and low voltage, as well as outside boxes and connections, all held together by "gasp" wirenuts. :eek:
 
Comedy is about all our moderator has to offer. :p

One last thought for the stuck in the mud types. ;)

Just where would many people be today, without someone DANGEROUSLY risking life, limb, and precious motor, running a Winnebago surplus DC motor powered water pump, not designed at ALL for flammable fuels, so sayeth the sticker on it anyways, to pump alky. from his overflow tank into his motor and building the first DIY high pressure setup. :eek: :cool: :biggrin:

Well we'd be debating flammable fuels and DC powered pumps I guess. :rolleyes:

Then again those pumps have been in peoples cars working fine for over a decade. :)

PS: Don't fear the wirenut mine have been in use longer than the Shurflo. ;)

Back to comedy central after this commercial announcement.
 
Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak. winter is def here :p
 
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege :D
 
I figured I would post here before I started my own thread since you guys are already talking about the SMC kit.

I also have this same kit. But I have a Toyota MR2 Turbo that I have it in.

I had sent my pump to SMC a couple years ago to have them repair it, due to corossion and he did it free of charge! But now the pump has stopped.

I seen where you said a Dodge Minivan pump works? What year? Im allllll for this.

But when I was trying to remove the pump, i busted my bottle! I dont think I can repair it though. I havent emailed SMC about the bottle yet, but do you guys know if/where I can get another bottle also?

So. What year of dodge mini van?"
and Any info on a new bottle?

I want to fix this the cheapest as possible. It had worked great till now.

Thanks Guys!
 
88 To 89 dodge acclaim is what pump i got it was identical to the pump in the round bottle set up got the pump working but something is wrong in the controler and won't activate it i'm still messing with mine but i've almost had it and prob. will update it soon
 
I believe they were made by Nalgene.

Here is a link to some, not sure if they are exact to what he used might be a number or name on your bottle with the size.

Nalgene® Heavy Duty Bottles with Caps - US Plastic Corporation

A good reputable company to buy from they have good vacuum check valves in all kinds of sizes as well, I got some for replacements and in 3/8" size for my PVC vacuum oil separator tank project.

I'll post up a picture of some wirenuts in a round bottle that have been exposed to ethanol and plastic lube for over 3 years, for the "comics" tomorrow.

Maybe they can learn something, like WIRENUTS are made from plastic just like their sureflow pump heads. :p

SOME comics actually provide valuable info. in a thread, some not so much. :p
 
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