Trans work near Chi...

whats goin on the 28th? i got the car running on saturday night, got gas and a wash, got home and shut it off. started it up like 5 minutes later and it barely ran, rpms and AFR all over the place... cleaned out the return line, which was clogged a little, didnt help, swapped out the maf on a guess and it ran like new... so right now its running a little rich (still waiting on my FP gauge) and the trans holds up if im not running more than 10psi. so i have the rear main left to do before i send it over to jimmy, or at least he suggested i do it before he does the trans. and im still waiting on my ss 3" downpipe and testpipe/cutout from ESP. then 20psi here i come.

anyone paying attn to this thread ever do a rear main on this motor? ive done em on mustangs, which is a one piece and needs the trans and flywheel to come off. jimmy mentioned dropping the pan and the rear main itself and replacing it without dropping the trans...sound right? any downsides to doing it this way?
 
anyone paying attn to this thread ever do a rear main on this motor? ive done em on mustangs, which is a one piece and needs the trans and flywheel to come off. jimmy mentioned dropping the pan and the rear main itself and replacing it without dropping the trans...sound right? any downsides to doing it this way?


I believe this is correct (not dropping trans).
 
The 28th the Midwest Buick get together.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/mid-west-area/208493-midwest-meet-booked-grove-4-july-28th.html

Many of us have done the rear main seals and you know there is more one way to skin a cat. It's not fun doing it while the motor is in the car. People like Steve XXQuick6XX changes his bearings from the bottom, the man has skills. Some people use home made tools to get the other half out from the top side; some people use a special tool. Some times you can getaway with just taking the rear main cap off, others you have to loosen all four caps and let the crank drop a little to get the pressure off from the top, If you are lucky, the top portion of the seal comes out easily, if not you may have to use a coat hanger or something similar to work the other half out. Then clean thoroughly with brake or carb cleaner to take the entire residue off. This is very important if not the new seal will go half way and stop. Lube the crap out of the new seal, slide the top half in, I normally leave about 1/4 in hanging down on one side instead of being flush with the block and leave 1/4 out on the opposite side in the cap to compensate. This way where the cap is meets the block you will have the seal instead of the split of the seal even with cap and block. Use silicone to full the back seams and a dab where the two pieces meet.

HTH
Prasad
 
ah that 28th, i thought you meant this month. ill be in new york that weekend seeing rage against the machine...

yea i found a how-to on gnttype thats pretty descriptive. the only thing im worried about is taking that crossover pipe off. i can almost guarantee that its never been off for the life of the car... so that means broken bolts... do you recall if theyre studs or nuts and bolts for the crossover pipe? any kind of gasket on there? i havent even looked at the bolts yet.

since you seem to know alot more than i do about these puppies, what should stock fuel pressure be? i assume you set that with the vacuum line off? im thinking mines too high now that i replaced the pump. the ecm programmed afr never goes above 13.3, so maybe thats the cause, but i swear i remember the car normally driving/idling at around 14.7, now it hardly touches 13 and stays 11-12.

also while im asking newbie questions... ive never seen my BLMs change from 128...not even the INT...i can see the ecm moving through them, but they never change. (in powerlogger if that helps, also used to do the same thing when i had the directscan too)
 
also while im asking newbie questions... ive never seen my BLMs change from 128...not even the INT...i can see the ecm moving through them, but they never change. (in powerlogger if that helps, also used to do the same thing when i had the directscan too)

Some chips lock the BLM's, who's chip are you using?
 
ive used the stock chip and a 87recallt31.bin programmed in the Ostrich. Either way Ive never seen the learn lightup or them change at all.
 
I have seen stock fuel pressure around 30 with the vacuum line on The cross over pipe are held by bolts. Spray them up with WD40 or what ever for few days before you make the attempt.The nut part is welded on the header. Sometimes the the nut will brake loose from the weld and turn, if so get a wrench up there. If the bolt breaks then you have to drill the hole out and just use a nut and bolt. No gasket on these, I use a little bit of RTV copper around it before bolting it up.

HTH

Prasad
 
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