I"m planning on changing my trans filter & fluid on my stock GN. Eventually, I'm going to add a drain plug in the process. Any advise that can be provided such as tranny fluid recommendation and re-installing the pan properly to prevent any leaks? Things to do & NOT to do?
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Trans Filter & Fluid Change
- Thread starter TED73
- Start date
Its a lot cleaner to pump out the old fluid through the filler tube first. I have a small oil transfer pump I got from JC Whitney that works great.
Make sure you get the old filter seal out of the hole, there may be some old seal material left inside the hole when you pull out the filter. Just compare what you were able to pull out with the new seal & look in with a flashlight to see if you got it all out. Don't scratch the bore where the seal sits, its only aluminum. If you have to dig at it be real careful.
Tie the new gasket to the pan through the bolt holes with dental floss, I usually do every other hole, to keep it in place until all the bolts are started then pull the pieces of floss out.
Alternate snugging up the bolts first then torque them the correct amount ( I don't recall the torque value) to make sure it is evenly tightened and to prevent bending the pan.
I usually drive it for a day then pump it out and refill it once more through the dip stick tube to purge out the mix of old & new fluid and get it a little closer to a complete fluid change.
Bob
Make sure you get the old filter seal out of the hole, there may be some old seal material left inside the hole when you pull out the filter. Just compare what you were able to pull out with the new seal & look in with a flashlight to see if you got it all out. Don't scratch the bore where the seal sits, its only aluminum. If you have to dig at it be real careful.
Tie the new gasket to the pan through the bolt holes with dental floss, I usually do every other hole, to keep it in place until all the bolts are started then pull the pieces of floss out.
Alternate snugging up the bolts first then torque them the correct amount ( I don't recall the torque value) to make sure it is evenly tightened and to prevent bending the pan.
I usually drive it for a day then pump it out and refill it once more through the dip stick tube to purge out the mix of old & new fluid and get it a little closer to a complete fluid change.
Bob
Thanks for the advise, especially on the pump. I actually bought one of those inflatable small pools for kids to catch the oil. I like your idea of suctioning the oil again to get the old & new fluid. As far as oil, I was planning on following the manufactures recommendation. Any thoughts on the oil?
Ted
Ted
Here's me Info on installing the drain plug.>>
200-4R Transmission Servicing and Drain Plug Installation
Pics here.>
Help with my trans - MonteCarloSS.com Message Board
200-4R Transmission Servicing and Drain Plug Installation
Pics here.>
Help with my trans - MonteCarloSS.com Message Board
As I clicked on the two links, I saw something on the TCC. Now you got me wondering & asking if I should replace that as well?
When I clicked on the Monte SS link and came across the following, "Once it gets warm it seems to delay/hesitate sometimes and then jump into gear.", my car sometimes feels like that. Maybe it's all in my head but who knows.
When I clicked on the Monte SS link and came across the following, "Once it gets warm it seems to delay/hesitate sometimes and then jump into gear.", my car sometimes feels like that. Maybe it's all in my head but who knows.
I agree with MSDGN on the plain old Dex III. I had a cooling fan relay failure and cooked my Dex III to a dark red but I felt that since I have always changed it about every 25,000 miles it prevented damage to the trans.
I didn't mention it but I changed my TCC solenoid and if you have any symptoms of the trans not dis-engaging from lockup while coming to a stop or if you sense lock/unlockup happening under steady cruise, change it, its real easy to do.
One way I know of to test the TCC solenoid is under steady cruise at about 60 - 65, with steady pressure on the gas, tap the brake and watch for a slight rise in RPM and engine sound, that indicates that the TCC is working & you are dis-engaging the TCC.
I didn't mention it but I changed my TCC solenoid and if you have any symptoms of the trans not dis-engaging from lockup while coming to a stop or if you sense lock/unlockup happening under steady cruise, change it, its real easy to do.
One way I know of to test the TCC solenoid is under steady cruise at about 60 - 65, with steady pressure on the gas, tap the brake and watch for a slight rise in RPM and engine sound, that indicates that the TCC is working & you are dis-engaging the TCC.
sniperdfa1
GNsniperdfa1
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
Torque value...
So does anyone know the torque value on the trans bolts?
Don't want to overtighten and then get into a whole new mess.
Thanks
William
So does anyone know the torque value on the trans bolts?
Don't want to overtighten and then get into a whole new mess.
Thanks
William
So does anyone know the torque value on the trans bolts?
Don't want to overtighten and then get into a whole new mess.
Thanks
William
Which ones?
Vbody= 9-12 ft/lbs
Pan = 6-10 ft/lbs
TCC Solenoid = 7-10 ft/lbs
I just recieved the Trans filter kit yesterday in the box. Did not expect the gasket to be in a small box. Not that it was bent and a cress was formed, just thought it would have been flatter. By the way, is the filter just held into place by placing the tube in the correct location? Just want to confirm.
Hope to change it out sometimes next week.
Hope to change it out sometimes next week.
I just recieved the Trans filter kit yesterday in the box. Did not expect the gasket to be in a small box. Not that it was bent and a cress was formed, just thought it would have been flatter. By the way, is the filter just held into place by placing the tube in the correct location? Just want to confirm.
Hope to change it out sometimes next week.
There's a spring clip that holds it. It's easy to see. Or look here, about 3/4 way down the page.> THM 200-4R
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