STEP BY STEP ENGINE REBUILD!

No earl talking about this here!
apujuze2.jpg



k

That's to deflect all the oil spraying out of the rear man from flooding the rear seal. With the factory rope type seal, it would be a mess.

Notice the angular knurl lines on the seal surface? That's to help put the oil back into the crankcase.
 
So i took apart the front cover here are the pics!
aga3etaq.jpg

da2u7ame.jpg

guse2yse.jpg


Here is my cam tell me if this is a good cam and if it looks good!
7u8ura9u.jpg

uhumaqup.jpg

y4yraha5.jpg


So let me know what you guys think!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
the only way to know is to measure each and every lobe first. If one lobe is shorter than the other, it's a boat anchor (and the engine has to come ALL THE WAY down)
 
You will also want to take a look at the back of the cover where the cam button was riding and make sure that isn't gnawed up.
 
Thanks for the tip! I will check that!

On another note is anybody running this cam??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I do not use flat tappet cams any more. They all go flat. I use to have cams stacked up like cord wood in the corner of the shop. Roller or I won't build it. They have cost me way too much in warranty replacement. (I stand behind everything I do)
 
I do not use flat tappet cams any more. They all go flat. I use to have cams stacked up like cord wood in the corner of the shop. Roller or I won't build it. They have cost me way too much in warranty replacement. (I stand behind everything I do)

Why do they go flat compared to a lets say a 350 chevy???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Why do they go flat compared to a lets say a 350 chevy???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The #3 exhaust lobe is off center to the cam compared to the others. They lifter doesn't like to spin on that lobe. Casted from the factory that way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
#3 exhaust lobe is a problem and a Buick V6 has a very small base circle. There are 5 lobes tapered one direction (to spin the lifters and center the cam in the block) and 7 of the lobes are tapered the other. (On factory cams). Most cam grinders do not do this. They typically taper them 6&6. Comp was notified years ago about this. This must be checked prior to install. (Along with deburring the oil transfer hole to dist. gear on the thrust face of all cams). I just pulled a completely stock GN engine apart that ran 11.19's and it was the first and only decent cam that I have seen in over 25 years of building them. Still putting a roller in it though.(and stroker kit.)
 
Teard down the hole engine today can anyone tell me if this is normal?

ve7amaqu.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Can anybody give me the part number for the clevite bearing for main and rods?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You have to know what size your crank is going to be on the rebuild before you can order bearings. (and personally I wouldn't put Clevites in my lawn mower anymore)
 
You have to know what size your crank is going to be on the rebuild before you can order bearings. (and personally I wouldn't put Clevites in my lawn mower anymore)

Its 10-10 what would you recomend earl?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Only if it needs to be turned 10-10. You might get away with a polish, the only way to know for sure is to start measuring and go from there.
 
Since this is the second build on this engine, I'ld have the crank mag'd for cracks and checked for staightness. No sense putting a used crank in that going to fail.
 
Top