Spun Bearing

Spun Bearing...... Rebuild/repair it or Replace Engine?

  • Rebuild/repair it for less now and start saving for a new engine...

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kman71

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
I thought I was finally done restoring the TTA. Had it in the body shop last week to get the body work finished and painted. It looks like new again both inside and out.

That feeling quickly ended when I started it up and drove it home. It was making a different noise that I had never heard before, Like a grinding, but I thought maybe it was just cold and needed to warm up.. I drove it home, less than 10 miles and it was getting louder but would also go away depending on the rpms and the oil pressure was bouncing from 0 to 40 and check engine light was coming on and off and knocking something fierce when I got home. I think it is a a spun bearing. There is no visible damage to the block or oil pan that I could see but the oil level was low and very dirty. The car had been driven less than 2000 miles since I bought it and the oil was changed 2 times. I was having an issue with it running hot and installed an aluminum 2 stage radiator, but I think the overheating may have taken its toll on the engine and lead to the spun bearing. It has a T63 turbo on it, 60lb injectors, alki kit, 3 inch downpipe, wide band, and scan master. Boost was set for 25 PSI and I never had any knock on the scanmaster before now. My buddy who rebuilds engines is coming over on Saturday to help me take the engine out and access the damage.

I am a novice at this and need advice from those who have been there, done that with these cars before. Can something like this be fixed or does it need new engine? My buddy thinks it is a spun bearing for sure but is confident it can be fixed. He said we just need to replace the damaged area, bearing and crankshaft. I have been searching online for parts and can't find many parts for it. Rock Auto has a good list for our car, but no crankshaft. They do have a crankshaft kit for a 1987 Buick GN. Would a GN crankshaft and bearings work in this car? It seems the same engine only different heads, right? How do you determine if it can be fixed or if the engine should be replaced? Does it depend it the block is damaged? Anyone done this before and have any advice on where to get the parts and how much the repair can cost?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
 
Dirty oil is a big no no.

If it spun a bearing there will be fragments in the oil. Drop the oil into a pan and look for copper flakes. If so.. motor needs to come out.

If its a factory crank, it may be turned down and a new set of bearings installed. That depends on the damage, how long it was driven damaged, etc.

The turbo will also need to be rebuilt as dirty contaminated oil has been run through it.

Lesson 1.. oil always needs to be kept clean on a turbo motor.

Post your findings.. yes the Buick shortblock is the same as the TTA shortblock. Cept for pistons.
 
Awesome advice, Thanks Julio.

I tried to be careful with this one and the oil but obviously not careful enough.

I seem to always learn the hard way with this stuff. Now it is time to learn how to replace an engine.
 
I just drained the oil and it was dirty and had copper flakes in it.

Julio, when you said drop the motor if it had this, did you mean replace the motor or can this condition be repaired as you laid out above?

I am guessing I need a new small block with cylinders and rods and can use the top from the old one. I will also have to rebuild the turbo or replace it. Anything I'm missing?

Any advise where to get the parts? I'm in the Chicagoland area.
 
Motor needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Turbo needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Precision turbo can rebuild the turbo. That ones easy.

Motor rebuild is something else. A quickie would be get a crank kit(crank and bearings) and resize the rods(especially the one that had the issue). You'll need all the gaskets, and make the decision on the condition of the pistons and rings. Sometimes you can get away with honing and new rings. Sometimes you cant. That depends on how much wear the cylinder has. The rings you would use are the Speedpro plasma moly's. Bearings I like for stockers are the King aleculars. Or Clevite 77's. Crank is going to be tough.. that will require some digging. Dont know anyone in the Chicago area cept Surej.. aka Dr Boost on this board.. maybe he can lead you to the proper machine shop.

Basically the motor needs to be pulled and dis-assembled to see what it needs and what you can get away with. Careful with snow ball effect as its very easy to get carried away with parts and non essential machine work. This can be the difference between a 1k and 10k job.
 
Oh man, that's something you don't see coming. Your sure no one at the body shop test drove the car??
These cars just don't stop. I was finished restoring/ rebuilding my car five times already, something always happens...
 
Surej is gone to India, he is retired from the Buicks.

Get it apart and snap some pics.

Rick
 
Thanks Rick and Jarred,

It crossed my mind about the shop, but I really trust the shop. I think the overheating issues I had in the summer before getting the bigger radiator plus the boost set at 25 led to the demise. Not that I ran it hard or raced it, I just think it was the perfect storm and my luck. Just when I thought it was finished. I was so sick about last week, but now I have a new engine for it I am getting excited about pulling the motor and starting over fresh.

Surej responded from India to PM and gave me his mechanic's info.

I will take some pics of the process and post as we go.

Thanks for all the input and advice.
Kris
 
I guess that was the only lucky part in this. I saw a fresh built std. bore SG1 block for sale. Block has Turbo crank, stock 2 dot rods w/ARP rod bolts and stock pistons. Block has 2 Billet Main caps with ARP main studs in the Parts for Sale section this past weekend.

I plan on using the heads and cam from the TTA if I can. I will send the Turbo out to Precision for rebuild. We are hopefully going to take the motor out tomorrow and tear it down so we have a better idea of what the re-build will take to do.

Turns out the guy selling the block only lives only 15 minutes from me. Turbo Buicks are huge in the Chicago land area, so good for parts and service. I should have it back up and running within 2 weeks if all goes well.

Let me know if you or anyone else has any advice on the rebuild. Like, what are the best head gaskets to use? I have heard Cometics and FelPro.

Thanks,
Kris
 
From all the research and info I had, they will work. Had to get a new cam too so I got the matching springs and lifters for the heads too. I went with the flat tappat high performance cam vs the roller. It was $500 more for the roller and I am not going to be racing the car so for the little added performance rpm band and maintenance didn't seem worth it, just have to use the amsoil and filters and stay on top of it. Maybe I'll learn the hard way again.
 
Are the pistons in that block correct for the Turbo TA heads?
There is really not a "correct piston" for the TTA heads.. I think your referring to the Cr difference. Now, if I'm correct
TTA piston/TTA head is 9:1 Cr
GN piston/TTA head is 9.27:1 Cr
There is a .27 Cr difference, and for me that is a plus..

Kris, If the flat tappet cam is not broken in propery at star up, goodbye cam lobes... I have seen tons of failures with fresh rebuilds running tappet cam. Mostly due to inproper break in.. Thats why most sugest roller cam.. Now worries
HTH
 
Awesome. That is what we thought too.

Thanks for the input on the cam and proper start u/break in.

Does the cam come with a instruction for start up/break in or do you know where I can find the info?

I don't want to screw it up again. LOL
Thanks again for the help.
KRIS
 
There is really not a "correct piston" for the TTA heads.. I think your referring to the Cr difference. Now, if I'm correct
TTA piston/TTA head is 9:1 Cr
GN piston/TTA head is 9.27:1 Cr
There is a .27 Cr difference, and for me that is a plus..

Kris, If the flat tappet cam is not broken in propery at star up, goodbye cam lobes... I have seen tons of failures with fresh rebuilds running tappet cam. Mostly due to inproper break in.. Thats why most sugest roller cam.. Now worries
HTH

He is going to wind up with a higher compression ratio if he uses GN pistons with TTA heads.
 
+.27 cr, is that the higher compression ratio? What are the pros and cons of this? How will the higher compression ratio effect the engine?
 
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