Snout issue

[Drewster]

So I've got a used stock crank that I was planning to use for my new build. It looks like the balancer /bolt came loose at one time prior and dinged up the snout.
I initially thought the balancer bolt would hold it tight to the timing gear so I proceed with prep work.
When I finger tight snug up a balancer and timing gear, all is nice and tight, no wobble. But without the bolt the balancer wobbles a bit.
If there is no run out on the tightened balancer, would the crank be ok to use?
A Machinist suggested knurling to increase the snout dia. I didn't want to drop another $200 to get the snout welded and cut to size.

Should I run it, knurl it, sell it, or toss it?

Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[turbogray]

So I've got a used stock crank that I was planning to use for my new build. It looks like the balancer /bolt came loose at one time prior and dinged up the snout.
I initially thought the balancer bolt would hold it tight to the timing gear so I proceed with prep work.
When I finger tight snug up a balancer and timing gear, all is nice and tight, no wobble. But without the bolt the balancer wobbles a bit.
If there is no run out on the tightened balancer, would the crank be ok to use?
A Machinist suggested knurling to increase the snout dia. I didn't want to drop another $200 to get the snout welded and cut to size.

Should I run it, knurl it, sell it, or toss it?

Drewster on Tapatalk

Junk it..

 

[cruzn57]

check with a reputable crank grinder, about spray welding it. cheaper and as its a "no load" area,

 

[bison]

They can spray and re-grind it


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[Nick Micale]

It make no sense to try and make a 25+ year old cast crank work in a fresh rebuild when it deserves to be a mail box post with that damage? You are just asking for trouble.

If you cannot come up with a decent stock turbo crank locally, I have a 0.010" under crank for $150 if you are hard pressed at this time? It cost me $100 to have it turned and polished.

 

[WPP-Bill]

Though it can be welded, I agree with Nick. The minute heat from the weld is introduced to the crank, it will likely bend and the crank would require straightening. The cost of the weld, grinding the snout back down and straightening the crank would likely exceed the cost of replacing the it with a stronger and more dependable piece.

 

[m233roller]

Yup, shit can it and buy a new piece. I know money might be tight but why even screw with it on a new build ? Can't go wrong with Nick's crank and price is RIGHT !!

 

[Drewster]

So repair isn't worth the work......
Out of curiosity. Wouldn't torquing the bolt to 200 ftlbs keep the balancer/timing gear still enough to turn belts?


Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[turbogray]

So repair isn't worth the work......
Out of curiosity. Wouldn't torquing the bolt to 200 ftlbs keep the balancer/timing gear still enough to turn belts?


Drewster on Tapatalk

Are you willing to risk your high dollar engine out of curiosity,(remember that curiosity killed the cat) , if you are then report back and let us know what your experiment yields.

 

[Drewster]

Just wondering if someone had a similar issue and if they gave it a spin.
Im planning on running the current build hard so I will avoid sub standard parts.


Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[turbogray]

Just wondering if someone had a similar issue and if they gave it a spin.
Im planning on running the current build hard so I will avoid sub standard parts.


Drewster on Tapatalk

Again if you are going to run it hard why use a sub standard stock crank that has issues in 1st place to begin with, makes no sense..

 

[bison]

Just wondering if someone had a similar issue and if they gave it a spin.
Im planning on running the current build hard so I will avoid sub standard parts.


Drewster on Tapatalk

I've had a few cranks plated in the past. Never broke one. New doesnt mean good either. New must be measured and checked


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[turbogray]

New must be measured and checked


BPE2013@hotmail.com

A lot cheaper option than invest in something that is a weak crank to begin with and that now it needs repairs..

 

[The Radius Kid]

When I finger tight snug up a balancer and timing gear, all is nice and tight, no wobble. But without the bolt the balancer wobbles a bit.

What do you mean by "wobble"?

 

[Drewster]

The snout is about .002 under sized where the balancer sits. There is play in the balancer when not bolted in, no play when balancer bolted.
I was initially planing on making around 500 hp and thought a stock crank would be ok. It took a bit to find a stock crank that didn't have the thrust surface overly worn, unfortunately I chose to use this one to get ground and polished.
I thought I would be ok until the machinist said the balancer will oscillate even though it is bolted up. I find it hard to believe and was wondering if any one had experience with a similar situation and was asking for confirmation on the balancer ocillating even when torqued.



Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[Drewster]

The snout is about .002 under sized where the balancer sits. There is play in the balancer when not bolted in, no play when balancer bolted.
I was initially planing on making around 500 hp and thought a stock crank would be ok. It took a bit to find a stock crank that didn't have the thrust surface overly worn, unfortunately I chose to use this one to get ground and polished.
I thought I would be ok until the machinist said the balancer will oscillate even though it is bolted up. I find it hard to believe and was wondering if any one had experience with a similar situation and was asking for confirmation on the balancer ocillating even when torqued.
I am planing using a stronger crank now for this build.

Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[The Radius Kid]

The snout is about .002 under sized where the balancer sits. There is play in the balancer when not bolted in, no play when balancer bolted.
I was initially planing on making around 500 hp and thought a stock crank would be ok. It took a bit to find a stock crank that didn't have the thrust surface overly worn, unfortunately I chose to use this one to get ground and polished.
I thought I would be ok until the machinist said the balancer will oscillate even though it is bolted up. I find it hard to believe and was wondering if any one had experience with a similar situation and was asking for confirmation on the balancer ocillating even when torqued.



Drewster on Tapatalk

Considering that fact and where you're running ,I would just go with a steel crank and be done with it.

 

[Drewster]

Agreed


Drewster on Tapatalk

 

[bison]

A lot cheaper option than invest in something that is a weak crank to begin with and that now it needs repairs..

There's nothing cheap about anything that's going to be fast and reliable. The stock crank isn't weak either. If I was working on an engine and it was fine other than the torn up surface from a loose balancer I would surely have it plated and re-ground. I have a few cranks that are damaged from loose balancers and need nothing else. They will all get plated and fixed. I wouldn't hesitate to run them at 600hp all day long. If you already planned on switching out the bottom end then so be it. But if the crank needed plating and grinding then it's likely better to do it



BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[cruzn57]

new crank ( Nicks or other wise) will require rebalancing, and possibly clearancing, new bearings,.
so the cost will be substantial. spray welding has been used for many ,many years with NO problems.
its just another tool thats available.