SMC Low Alcohol light comes on, tank is full

[gordyzx9r]

I have one of the 1st generation SMC alcohol systems and the low alcohol light just started coming on even though the tank is full.

The alcohol system is working fine otherwise.

I just had a bunch of work done and the engine was pulled in/out a few times so I'm wondering if they might have inadvertently snagged a wire or something.

I have the original instructions but it doesn't cover the "low alcohol" warning or have a wiring diagram.

 

[williamsGN]

Check the plug that goes in above the float unit in the tank, also make sure the float itself is still moving. Mine gave out quite awhile ago and I haven't seen a suitable replacement, so I just keep it full. One of those four wires in the bottom will control the light if you don't get it resolved and would like the light turned off. You could pull the connector at the tank and that will tell you if it is the float or the wiring causing the light to go on. Mine was similar but had two rca type connectors, one for the pump, one for the float switch.

 

[gordyzx9r]

Ground is good.

Float moves freely up and down and goes into up position normally when it's submerged.

I contacted SMC via email and was told that they do have float switches available.

How difficult is it to change that out? Nothing on this car is easy, ever...

 

[williamsGN]

I never fixed mine, just keeping it full all the time. Mine won't come on through, the fact that your is lighting up makes me wonder if you have the wire grounding out somewhere, since that is what triggers the light.

 

[gordyzx9r]

I disconnected the wire at the control panel and disconnected the plug, no short.

However, it is short to ground at the plug leading into the float (and when I disconnect the actual ground going into the float it goes away).

Bad float switch it appears.

 

[salvageV6]

You need the ultra-long needle nose pliers and some luck to change it out.

I don't use the RCA type phono jacks anymore, just wires exiting the drilled out phono jack and some copper RTV to seal it since it's alky. resistant. Use a terminal strip or wire nuts to the kit wires into the car.

I used the pricey brass Omega professional float switch at $39 plus about $10 shipping.

It should outlast the car.

There are cheaper ones from McMaster Carr and other suppliers in cheesy plastic tubing that will crack with alky. use after a few years. There's only a reed switch in them and as soon as corrosion or leakage occurs they are done.

http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/frameset.html?book=Green&file=lv10

 

[JimP]

Glad I saw this post, I have the same problem with mine.

 

[gordyzx9r]

Yeah, never did get the new switch from SMC so I purchased the brass one mentioned above (just make sure to test it before you install it and mount it to make sure you have the float on or it'll work the opposite way). You can see the original next to the nice new brass one and how the original one cracked.

Eventually I'll upgrade to a new system...