Ok guys here is my deal ..I bought a 87 with blown head gasket ( super deal) . I fixed tht and started the car here are my numbers at idle af-14, l8-70, bat-13.3, int-128, bl-128, mph-00, cit-70, als-66, r-1200, tps-1.02, iac-174, pl-140, mal-13. From my readings these numbers are way off ..it idles but it surges and pops under boost..no knock and o2 reads 394 all at idle..my oil has a little water in it also I'm hoping just residual water from the head gasket being blown..I am a novice so all help is appreciated ..
Scanmaster #s ...need advice
- Thread starter onmyway87
- Start date
Holy crap! You started this engine with water in the oil???? With coolant in the oil, you should have known at that time not to "just" change the head gasket, likely bearing damage. Emptying the oil pan is the First thing that has to happen after the heads have been pulled.
If you removed the intake without messing with anything, How did the TPS get so whacked out?? Did you get all the grounds back in place after replacing the heads?
What head gaskets?
Did you use sealer on the threads of the head bolts??
If you removed the intake without messing with anything, How did the TPS get so whacked out?? Did you get all the grounds back in place after replacing the heads?
What head gaskets?
Did you use sealer on the threads of the head bolts??
Turbo Dave I did not see water in oil til after I restarted the engine..I used the 9441 gaskets . I did use thread sealant on the new bolts I installed. The grounds are bolted to a trans bolt for some reason so I never touched them. I have no idea how the tps got so screwed..from your reaction I'm thinking pull the motor for a total overhaul
I was going to respond, but got a pesky business call. Glad TurboDave got to you. See below for what I was going to post, but listen to TurboDave. He smart guy
!!!
First - figure out what's up with the water in the oil. Change it immediately, then check it to see if there's still water in the oil. If you keep getting water in the oil, there's a BIGGER issue that needs to be figured out. Not to scare the crap out of you, but it could be a cracked head or block.
Second (if the first pans out ok), deal with the malufunction code 13. I believe that's a bad O2 sensor, but not sure. A quick search on the board will tell you, or if you have the instructions from the SM I believe there's a quick reference in the packet. If you don't have the instructions for it, I'm pretty sure you can get from TurboTweak's website - www.turbotweak.com.
Then (if the O2 sensor fixes it), deal with the IAC and TPS issues. Your IAC is WAY high. I don't remember what it's supposed to be but it is much lower than what you have. A quick search on the board will tell you where it's supposed to be. Then set TPS to .42-.44. You have to set the IAC, and then do the TPS; any change to the IAC will affect TPS.
Also, your SM numbers should be posted with the engine up to operating temperature. Let it get up to at least 160-degrees for accurate number. Until you get the water in the oil figured out, I wouldn't run it at all.
!!!First - figure out what's up with the water in the oil. Change it immediately, then check it to see if there's still water in the oil. If you keep getting water in the oil, there's a BIGGER issue that needs to be figured out. Not to scare the crap out of you, but it could be a cracked head or block.
Second (if the first pans out ok), deal with the malufunction code 13. I believe that's a bad O2 sensor, but not sure. A quick search on the board will tell you, or if you have the instructions from the SM I believe there's a quick reference in the packet. If you don't have the instructions for it, I'm pretty sure you can get from TurboTweak's website - www.turbotweak.com.
Then (if the O2 sensor fixes it), deal with the IAC and TPS issues. Your IAC is WAY high. I don't remember what it's supposed to be but it is much lower than what you have. A quick search on the board will tell you where it's supposed to be. Then set TPS to .42-.44. You have to set the IAC, and then do the TPS; any change to the IAC will affect TPS.
Also, your SM numbers should be posted with the engine up to operating temperature. Let it get up to at least 160-degrees for accurate number. Until you get the water in the oil figured out, I wouldn't run it at all.
If there was antifreeze in the radiator and that got into the oil, I understand that is the kiss of death for rod and main bearings. That is one reason I run 100% pure distilled water in my car..... just in case I pop a headgasket and get any in the oil...... it won't toast my bearings. (caution, this only works for cars in the South and stored indoors when it gets below freezing)
Once I got that fixed.... like others said.... fix the malfunction code..... then tackle the IAC issue. It appears to be really trying to raise the idle.... so you will likely need to open the throttle blade a little using the stop screw. Once it is adjusted properly.... 20-30 at hot idle in park..... you need to reset the TPS for .44 - .46 volts at idle. Then you should be good.
Once I got that fixed.... like others said.... fix the malfunction code..... then tackle the IAC issue. It appears to be really trying to raise the idle.... so you will likely need to open the throttle blade a little using the stop screw. Once it is adjusted properly.... 20-30 at hot idle in park..... you need to reset the TPS for .44 - .46 volts at idle. Then you should be good.
Thanks for the insight guys..I'm going to try everything tht was stated in that exact order..even distilled water ( I live in south Georgia ..freezing shouldn't be a problem). Im new at the GN thing ..so saying my bearings are usable..how would I go about setting that IAC and TPS ? are there any links to show the steps ???
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
hello;
IBBY
hello; That could be the case as I havn't been in there in a while. What do you think about the IAC itself? They either work or they don't I suppose and cleaning them once in a while is the way to go. I might get a new in the near future thou.
IBBY
jlat.... you are confused.... you can have a TPS be spot on... and the IAC be way off. You set the IAC by opening the throttle blade or closing the throttle blade with the screw stop. Opening the throttle blade with the screw will tend to make the IAC #'s go down....... closing the throttle blade will tend to make IAC #'s go up. You adjust the throttle blade until you get 20-30 at hot idle...... then you set the TPS to .44- .46 volts..... you are done. The IAC doesn't have to be exact.... but you would like it to be close to the 20-30 idling.
It's funny how much trouble a "not opperating pr0perly" throttle blade can cause. I had a bazaar issue a couple weeks ago that I've never experienced before. My IAC's were inconsistent, changing at will, and the same was true with my idle rpm. Scratched my head a while on that one, and finally discovered that at random times my throttle blade wasn't closing all the way against the idle stop screw (AKA air bleed screw, or IAC screw). Ended up taking the throttle body off and completely cleaning with a good dose of carb cleaner, especially the blade (both sides) and throat.
