Scanmaster Readings?

[85supreme]

I recently hooked up the scanmaster in my '87 GN and want to make sure its running how it should.
The car has 43k and is completely stock except for the air filter and the cat was cut out.

Scanmaster is the 2.0 version and the readings were taken yesterday in 95* weather after letting it idle for 10 minutes.

O2: 175-710
AF: 04
L8: 34-39
bat: 13.5
int: 122-133
bl: 140
mph: 00
clt: 196
ats: 100
r: 750
tps: .48-.50
iac: 30-31
mal: 00


I have put 600 miles on it so far without any real issues. But at WOT the scanmaster has shown a maximum of 4.0 KR. I know the goal is to not have any knock, but is 4.0 a serious amount or is it fine?


Thanks - Mike

 

[blackgn1]

TPS,IAC,and BLM are all high. You want to tune for zero knock.

 

[87geeinn]

TPS,IAC,and BLM are all high.

I respectfully disagree. Although you want to aim for .42-.46 at idle, the car will run just fine at .48-.50. IAC counts and BLMs are just fine; neither are pegged at the far end of the spectrum. His numbers indicate the IAC motor is doing it's job at controlling the idle. 140 on the BLM is fine...the computer is doing its thang. People get so wrapped up on this ideal 128 number thing.

I definitely agree he needs to tune for zero knock.

Mike, I would suggest a 160* thermostat along with a good matching chip from TurboTweak, a boost gauge to see what boost numbers you're running, hotwired Walbro, and good 92-93 octane fuel...if you haven't done so already. You're coolant temp (CLT) is a touch on the high side but not dangerously so, especially if you are still running a stock 180* thermostat. For now, ease off the throttle until you learn the car and do A LOT of reading.

 

[626gn]

I respectfully disagree. Although you want to aim for .42-.46 at idle, the car will run just fine at .48-.50. IAC counts and BLMs are just fine; neither are pegged at the far end of the spectrum. His numbers indicate the IAC motor is doing it's job at controlling the idle. 140 on the BLM is fine...the computer is doing its thang. People get so wrapped up on this ideal 128 number thing.

I definitely agree he needs to tune for zero knock.

Mike, I would suggest a 160* thermostat along with a good matching chip from TurboTweak, a boost gauge to see what boost numbers you're running, hotwired Walbro, and good 92-93 octane fuel...if you haven't done so already. You're coolant temp (CLT) is a touch on the high side but not dangerously so, especially if you are still running a stock 180* thermostat. For now, ease off the throttle until you learn the car and do A LOT of reading.

x2 don't get too hung up on hitting a certain number. Here is some good reading material http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm

 

[blackgn1]

If he can adjust and get the numbers closer why not? Mine would run with my numbers off but they aren't. I agree with the upgrades. Fuel system and chip first.

 

[XLR8ONU]

There is a chart that is on the board here floating around that shows all the ranges to shoot for. I will see if I have it saved on the computer if not I'm sure someone will post it for you.

 

[Shawn N]

I recently hooked up the scanmaster in my '87 GN and want to make sure its running how it should.
The car has 43k and is completely stock except for the air filter and the cat was cut out.

Scanmaster is the 2.0 version and the readings were taken yesterday in 95* weather after letting it idle for 10 minutes.

O2: 175-710
AF: 04
L8: 34-39
bat: 13.5
int: 122-133
bl: 140
mph: 00
clt: 196
ats: 100
r: 750
tps: .48-.50
iac: 30-31
mal: 00


I have put 600 miles on it so far without any real issues. But at WOT the scanmaster has shown a maximum of 4.0 KR. I know the goal is to not have any knock, but is 4.0 a serious amount or is it fine?


Thanks - Mike

Yes 4 is serious knock. There is several ways to tune out knock but I will just suggest that you purchase a RJC Power Plate. It costs $70 shipped and can be installed in 15 minutes. It fits between manifold and upper flenum. The back 2 cylinders will run lean at wot and cause the knock issues. This product redirects the airflow to be within 10% of each cylinder and the bonus side affect is far less knock issues. I also agree a Turbo Tweak 5.7 chip will help wake up the car.

 

[earlbrown]

4 isn't actually the amount of knock you have. It's how many degrees of timing the ECM has pulled due to detonation (either real or perceived).

Tune for 0 knock and get that coolant temp under control. Have you welded up the crack in the drivers side header yet?

 

[626gn]

If he can adjust and get the numbers closer why not? Mine would run with my numbers off but they aren't. I agree with the upgrades. Fuel system and chip first.

I agree for the most part. TPS for example is easy enough to adjust and his could stand to come down a bit. Whether its brought down to .42 or .44 or .48 really makes no difference in performance or otherwise. I run Ethanol and my BLM's will start out at 131 every fill-up. By the time my tank gets empty it always goes up to 136 or so. After I fill-up again, it goes back down. Took me awhile to figure this out. If I was one of those who is hell bent on getting to 128, I wouldn't have any hair left. Lol!

 

[earlbrown]

my BLM's will start out at 131 every fill-up. By the time my tank gets empty it always goes up to 136 or so. After I fill-up again, it goes back down. Took me awhile to figure this out. If I was one of those who is hell bent on getting to 128, I wouldn't have any hair left. Lol!

Sounds like you need to make sure you're fuel sock isn't curled up and/or lower the pump on the hanger about 1/2"

 

[626gn]

Thanks for the tip. Will check it out.

 

[85supreme]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I was having a problem with the fan coming on and wanted to make sure it would come on after I replaced the low speed relay. The fan came on when the CLT reached 200* so I am sure the car still has the 180* thermostat.

The previous owner did include a 160* thermostat with the sale of the car so I will be swapping that in soon.

Im planning to upgrade to a hotwired walbro and get a turbo tweak chip but I was wondering if simply using a different chip would reduce the knock.

I have three different chips I can use:

- Quad Air/Red Armstrong R93
- Quad Air/Red Armstrong R100
- Unknown Manufacturer but printed on the bottom is: 47150741BB iphilippines JD36 (this is from my other 87 GN is it a stock chip?)


I did look up the quad air chips and a lot of people don't like them, but say they are better than the stock chip which is in the car now. Is it worth it to swap them out or should I just wait until I get a turbo tweak?



Thanks - Mike

 

[85supreme]

And it says they are for the stock injectors.
Top of R93 chip reads : (top right) 6 (middle) R93 (bottom left) 6 (bottom right) 7
R100 chip reads the same except R100 in the middle
Unknown chip has some printing on the top but the plastic is covering it

 

[87geeinn]

1) Replace thermostat and get a new TT chip (TT chips require a 160* stat anyways)
2) Replace fuel pump and hotwire it
3) Until then, don't romp on it.

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

I agree with all the basic upgrades mentioned....If I had just put a scanmaster in my car and my numbers were where his are I wouldn't just leave it...You don't have too get hung up on the magic number of 128 but he has some adjusting to do here....Get a TT chip and it will say 128 + or - 5 it least try and get close.....His Iac's are on the high end and the BLM although not pegged probably indicate a small vac leak or exhaust leak....Like mentioned drivers side header likely is cracked if this hasn't been dealt with previously....

 

[85supreme]

What walbro should i get and wheres the best place to get one?

 

[87geeinn]

www.racetronix.com
www.gbodyparts.com
www.fullthrottlespeed.com
www.turbotweak.com

...to name a few. Eric (aka, TurboTweak) has pumps, hotwire kits, injectors, chips, etc. so you could effectively just make a one-stop shop.