Scanmaster readings are not right.

djj624

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
So I recently purchased a 87 T. The guy I got it from gave me a scanmaster with the car that was not hooked up. I eventually got time to hook it up and it doesn't seem to be reading the o2 millivolts correctly, I know the reading fluctuate all over the place during normal cruising but I am having a problem under wot. I'm expecting to see around 800 or so but instead its giving me readings all over the place one wot run will be at 017 the next will be 079 sometimes 600 then back to 005 just wacky random readings. Any ideas? I have it hooked up correctly as per the instructions and at idle all the other reading temp, battery, idle tps all seem to be on target it's just on wot runs no matter if I give it wot out of the hole or gradually increase my speed.

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O2 sensor is shot. Previous owner prolly ran leaded race gas in it. Big no no unless you like changing & buying them.

Install a new Denso.
 
I'm feeling like Ray Charles here but I can't find the 02 sensor on the car??

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Thanks got it all hooked up. I did notice some things during the process though I'm not sure what these are.
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this was unplugged I'm guessing it's for the a/c? The rest I'm not sure of.
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Sent from my Nexus 6
 
Neither connector is used. One is a diagnostic test hot wire for the fuel pump (black plug grey wire). Just tuck them back under the alt away from the belt and drivers side header.
 
The green connector with two white wires is a tach output. The single wire in the 3rd picture is likely for the water temp idiot light. Your car have a water temp gauge?
What are you trying to show in the 4th picture? The pipe sticking out in the air? That's a valve cover breather pipe that is normally connected to the turbo inlet bell on stock turbo's. What most of us do is remove the pipe and stick a small filter on the rubber nipple that the pipe comes out of.

Never ceases to amaze me how fast things can get ugly under a hood. How tough can color coordinating be, I mean please! Red, White zip ties. Replace them with black zip ties and for god's sake cut off the excess! I'm sure you bought it that way so get it cleaned up!
 
Thanks for the input guys, and you hit the nail on the head the car did come like that. Got a lot of cleanup to do. On a good note the scanmaster is now working correctly 834 0.0 knock. 10 psi

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I don't see and hoses goig to the boost control solenoid. What you Have going on there.
 
Don't know, what should go there, the car does have an old atr wastegate on it don't know of that matters. There is a vacuum line going from the turbo to the gate ( is that right)?

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Don't know, what should go there, the car does have an old atr wastegate on it don't know of that matters. There is a vacuum line going from the turbo to the gate ( is that right)?

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Ya, old school but it'll work.
 
So of I have an external gate should there be lines hooked up to the boost control solenoid? Or just a line from the external gate to the turbo?

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So of I have an external gate should there be lines hooked up to the boost control solenoid? Or just a line from the external gate to the turbo?

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The way that's hooked up, you will get only what boost the spring in the gate is rated at.
Slow to spool? That gate has a history of problems. Sticking shut, open, wearing out the valve guide, etc, etc.
 
A little slow nothing to crazy though. More just wanted to know if the hookup was correct. I'm in the process of getting another gate and some alky I can't get over 10 psi with the gate on there know, probably shot.

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It's referred to as tuner style. "Boost line direct to gate"

Prolly has a 10-12lb spring in it. Pluming the vacuum line through the solenoid will raise boost as long as it's working correctly.
 
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