mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
Are you still running the original stock radiator? What are the air temps in your area?
Running hot!
- Thread starter chrisgn6
- Start date
Yes I am. I see other members using the 80's Camaro rad. Was going to purchase one. I'm in the northwest( Seattle ) currently 70-80 degrees. But not humid. Shouldn't be running hot at all. But it's mostly raining or cloudy here.
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John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I would check for air in the system. In advance, loosen one of the heater core hoses at the cowl so it will come off easily; reinstall and retighten the clamp. Also remove the radiator cap. With the heater control on heat + all the way to the right for hot to allow coolant to go to the heater core, start the car and get it up to operating temperature so the thermostat opens. Wear leather gloves, eye protection and long sleeves so you avoid a burn from hot coolant. Now gently slide or twist off the heater core hose you originally worked with just enough so fluid or air can escape - barely a crack is all that is needed. You may get coolant coming out right away, you may get a delay with air escaping. Once coolant starts coming out the hose, slide the hose back on and retighten. Since the radiator cap is off, the system is not under pressure so you should not get a big spurt of coolant but just be careful, keep your face out of the way and expect it just in case.
With the emergency brake set, now jack up the front of the car as high as possible. Since the radiator cap is off, any more air should work its way to the open neck. You may see bubbles when doing this. Top off the coolant if it is a little low. Then put the cap on and hose down any spills that may have occured.
The point of all this is to get air to travel to the highest points of the cooling system so it can escape. These are almost free tests. Just be careful with hot coolant. It is hotter than McDonald's coffee and does not feel good in any way on your skin.
With the emergency brake set, now jack up the front of the car as high as possible. Since the radiator cap is off, any more air should work its way to the open neck. You may see bubbles when doing this. Top off the coolant if it is a little low. Then put the cap on and hose down any spills that may have occured.
The point of all this is to get air to travel to the highest points of the cooling system so it can escape. These are almost free tests. Just be careful with hot coolant. It is hotter than McDonald's coffee and does not feel good in any way on your skin.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Have the stat out when you did the flush?? In backwards?
When U flushed the system, did you look at the end of the rad tubes?
My T has just at 60K on it. The rad was an original....The core tubes were nearly crusted shut...It went in the scrap, and a new Alradco is going in.
When U flushed the system, did you look at the end of the rad tubes?
My T has just at 60K on it. The rad was an original....The core tubes were nearly crusted shut...It went in the scrap, and a new Alradco is going in.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
Your problem is most likely the radiator. I had the same issue with my GN a few years ago. I'm in the Portland Oregon area. The car was running warmer than usual. Fan was working normal. I noticed the faster I drove the hotter the motor got. In the evening when the air temps cooled down the motor was still running hot....in the 210* range. Changed the radiator...problem solved. The aluminum "F" body radiators work really well though they do not have an engine oil cooler in them which in a lot of cases you really don't need.
You guys are funny! His fan is NOT turning on until the temp is over 200 degrees! The problem is Not air in coolant, bad radiator, backward thermostat, blah blah blah...its the fan switch! Do a search and you will see the symptoms of a bad switch matches his symptoms exactly.
All good. I appreciate all the help to narrow my situation down.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
One thing is for sure, it can only be a finite set of reasons.
novaderrik
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
the fan should never have to come on when the car is running down the road: if it's not sitting at a few degrees above thermostat opening temp as you cruise down the road even with the fan not working, then there is something screwy with the cooling system... could be a clogged radiator, could be debris in the fins cutting off airflow, could be missing the pieces behind the grill that direct air thru the radiator and the chin spoiler under the radiator core that creates a low pressure area in the engine bay that forces air thru the radiator... it could also be a bad radiator cap that isn't holding pressure or too much antifreeze mixed in the water...
"This running hot only started after a flush."
You already know the problem or the most likely one. It is possible also that during the flush some of the crud got in the thermostat causing it not to open all the way.
If you do some good shopping you can get an F-body radiator,thermostat,radiator cap all for around $100.00 and yes i would replace all 3.
Like mentioned you won't have an engine cooler though with the F-body radiator.
You already know the problem or the most likely one. It is possible also that during the flush some of the crud got in the thermostat causing it not to open all the way.
If you do some good shopping you can get an F-body radiator,thermostat,radiator cap all for around $100.00 and yes i would replace all 3.
Like mentioned you won't have an engine cooler though with the F-body radiator.
No
I don't have any rubber flaps and run a front mount intercooler also an after market adjustable cooling fan controller with single speed and it never gets hot with in town driving mostly.
