Replacing timing set, should I install with advance?

Alaskabuick

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Old Nylon setup is tired and time to change out.

Installing a double roller and curious if this should install straight up or should I run some advance?

Car is basically stock original unopened with stock cam, TE44 basic bolt on motor daily driver.

Thanks,

Dennis
 
Straight up! Don't even waste your time.


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Unless you're checking with a degree wheel it doesn't really matter.


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A piston stop and wheel can be had for less than $50 at most parts stores my cam and chain was 3 degrees retarded when I installed it straight up I advanced it to to as close as straight up as I could which ended up 1 degree advanced.
For the cost and time a double check is always worth it IMO
 
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The proper method when installing a cam is to check/set it with a degree wheel.

Since most guys do not have the tools or know-how to degree the cam, and which is a PIA doing this with the engine in the car, if the timing gear has multiple keyways, I prefer to set the cam 2-4 degrees advanced.

The reason for this is that most of the off-the-shelf cams we have installed tend to be a few degrees retarded which hinders low-end response.

If the engine is a performance build which is double or so over the stock HP, it is best to degree the cam for optimum performance.

Like many thing we do with these cars, every build is different, so methods and procedures are not just right or wrong, but common sense is needed to provide acceptable or optimum performance, as well as budget considerations.

The experience of doing hundreds of TR builds instead of just one provides invaluable experience, especially the learning process with many disasters and mistakes over the years!
 
Thanks for all the input.

So what I gather form this is, if a the shade tree mechanic not using a degree wheel or know how (me) is going to do a best guess, it may be best to go in the direction of being a bit advanced rather than possibly being a bit retarded.
 
I would buy a good timing set with both billet gears and good chain if i was going to go through the time and trouble to replace it. Spend a little more now for peace of mind of knowing the gears are not going to wear prematurely over time and need replaced again.
 
I just installed my 210/215 roller 4 degrees advanced ; checked with degree wheel straight-up , then advanced. I like advance on a street car.

FWIW, the "straight up" marks were right on. Most stuff today is better/more accurate than 40 years ago, but it helps to check if you can.

Bob
 
I scaled this out to 12", printed on a plotter at work, and affixed it to some backing board.

http://www.laverdafinland.org/cape/kuvat/Degree Wheel.jpg

I'm sure there are a ton of different printable ones, this one scaled really well.

Then all you really need is the dial indicator, you can make your own pointer and piston stops. For something we were only going to use once or twice, I think I was less than $5 all in because I already had a dial indicator.


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Are you really going to bust into an 11k mile unopened engine or is this another car?
 
Thundertaod.....thanks for the printable degree wheel; all I need now is some cardboard. This is a great idea for those who don't do it often...I'll keep these in with my metal wheel.

Bob
 
There's several online, even a 7" one that can be printed with a regular home style printer.
 
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