Rear Main Seal
- Thread starter PARKBOY
- Start date
You should use the two piece rubber seal with silcone when install. don`t let the seal set even. try to offset the end of the two half so on end is in the main cap and the other end extend up into block. you want the end half of the rubber seal to offset by 10-15 degree to the main cap and block seat.
Turbo6Tech84
Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
Kirban sells the neoprene ones https://secure.mysuperpageshosting.com/kirbanperformance.com/index1.htm. While your there you should change the pan gasket as well. Heres the how to from gnttype.org Rear Main Seal Replacement Good Luck
Lee Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
rear 2 piece seal
Only one company makes the V-6 Buick neoprene 2 piece seal. The CLUB, Autozone,NAPA, it doesn't matter--all the same seal. Autozone is usually the cheapest. Best of luck.
Only one company makes the V-6 Buick neoprene 2 piece seal. The CLUB, Autozone,NAPA, it doesn't matter--all the same seal. Autozone is usually the cheapest. Best of luck.
Lynn D. Brown
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2004
RM Seal
The 1st suggestion is a good one - push the seal half up a little so 1 side is above the gap between the shell halves and of course the other end will be the hanging below the upper shell. U don't want the shell gaps and the seal gaps lining up. Wish I would ave kown that when I did mine 10 yrs ago - it leaks badly and I need to redo it.
Some mechanics also say to not use the rubber side seals. Instead, pump the side cavities full of silicone and make sure all the air is out.
The 1st suggestion is a good one - push the seal half up a little so 1 side is above the gap between the shell halves and of course the other end will be the hanging below the upper shell. U don't want the shell gaps and the seal gaps lining up. Wish I would ave kown that when I did mine 10 yrs ago - it leaks badly and I need to redo it.
Some mechanics also say to not use the rubber side seals. Instead, pump the side cavities full of silicone and make sure all the air is out.
Has anyone else done there side cavities like this?
Lee Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I've installed more than one of these.
I have never had a stock crank and block leak. This is the way I was told to do it years ago by a GM service guy.
Every piece must be CLEAN !!!
Use a PAPER THIN coat of Loctite 518 on the block where the cap mates.
Fill the side slots 1/3---1/2 way full from block mating area with RTV.
Start the RIGID (never used the softer ones) side tabs in the cap but be sure not to push then in so far that the RTV goes below the mating area. (Don't want to hold the cap off the block).
Install and torque to desired value.
Now drive the side tab down (block upside down) until the RTV starts to push out between block side and cap side.
Cut excess tap off. (wood chisel works well for this)
Drive nails in and using a Q-tip removes excess RTV.
If nails drive tabs down farther fill void with RTV.
Best of luck.
It goes without saying that the lips must point toward the front and have some lube on it.
I have never had a stock crank and block leak. This is the way I was told to do it years ago by a GM service guy.
Every piece must be CLEAN !!!
Use a PAPER THIN coat of Loctite 518 on the block where the cap mates.
Fill the side slots 1/3---1/2 way full from block mating area with RTV.
Start the RIGID (never used the softer ones) side tabs in the cap but be sure not to push then in so far that the RTV goes below the mating area. (Don't want to hold the cap off the block).
Install and torque to desired value.
Now drive the side tab down (block upside down) until the RTV starts to push out between block side and cap side.
Cut excess tap off. (wood chisel works well for this)
Drive nails in and using a Q-tip removes excess RTV.
If nails drive tabs down farther fill void with RTV.
Best of luck.
It goes without saying that the lips must point toward the front and have some lube on it.
