My friend and I are about done (I hope) rebuilding the front end on my 87 GN. New bushings on all control arms. We made a couple boo boos and I would like to know how important it is to correct them. First off, the shims from the drivers side upper arm were put on the passenger side and vice versa. We did put the rear shims on the rears and the fronts on the fronts, however. Then to make matters worse, after torquing everthing to spec, we found one shim fell out from the front upper arm on the passenger side. Can we just call it a day and take the car to be alligned? For what its worth, I compared my two other GN's and the shims were totally different (different number of shims and different thickness) between all three cars!
Question about shims on upper control arms
- Thread starter GNRick
- Start date
87-TURBO-T
Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2009
all cars require different thickness of shims. should be able to make it to the alignment shop as long as its not a great distance away.
just plain john
El Camino a Go-Go!
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2007
I would think that an alignment shop can put them in regardless. After all, that's what alignment shops do.
87-TURBO-T
Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2009
they will check caster/camber and put in what is needed, or take out what is not.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2003
The A Arm is loosened up by the nut that is on the inside of the control arm. Please tell me you didnt hold back up on the nut then take an impact gun to the bolt itself(lifting the control up to get to it)..If you did then you have stripped out the splines in the frame that those bolts go into. THat really make the alignment tech mad when the nut and bolt spin together. If you did then you will have to tack weld the bolt to the frame where it goes through to correct it. Good luck.:biggrin:
I'm not sure where the "nut on the inside of the control arm" is. There was a bolt that goes through the top of the arm, into the frame. Then a nut on the bolt that holds it to the frame. I bolted the A arm on before I connected the ball joint, to give me access to that bolt. There were no splines in the frame. So if he tries to just loosen the nut, there is a very good chance the bolt will spin unless he puts a wrench on it. And as you know, it is not a straight shot to that bolt unless you undo the ball joint. I tightened those bolts to 100 ft lbs.
Here's some reading for you. This will help when you get it aligned. If you have to much camber or the tires are pointed to far in or out (toe) you'll wear them out before you get it to the shop. You might want to trailer it there if it's not next door to you.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/g-body-drag-car-alignment-settings.290592
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/g-body-drag-car-alignment-settings.290592
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Driving it to an alignment shop isn't gonna wear the tires by the time you get there, don't worry about it. Just take it in and have it done.
Went to the alignment shop today. Not good news. He was surprised at all of the shims that were in there. i explained that I just put back what was there. Anyway, the last owner (or the factory?) used the wrong screws to hold the upper A arms to the frame. He showed me that the screws should have splines so that they don't turn when you put the nut on. Also, the tires were pointed outwards way too much when I got it there and we looked at it. And, by the time I got it home (maybe 5 miles) most but not all of the power steering fluid had boiled out- is this due to the bad alignment and the fact the steering was fighting me the whole way? Could I have damaged the pump? So I ordered the correct screws and they will be in tomorrow. He said to remove all shims from the drivers side and half of the shims from the passenger side. Then he will insert whatever shims I will need when he aligns this monster.
I forgot to say thanks for the info and the link.:biggrin:
This is a common issue with any car that has a shim type adjustment system. When they get worn more shims are installed to make up the difference. When you rebuild it it can change things quite a bit. As far as the bolt, I'll bet that it was rusted so badly it either broke or had to be cut off to work on it. Someone just put a blot back in it so they could get the job done. Hope you have a welder handy, the metal that holds the splines in may be stripped
Donnie wanted to get a little better idea of how to make his car go down the track so I helped him with it.:biggrin: When you get the car done get a copy of the alignment sheet and post your results on the thread for others. The point of the thread is to help guys with their cars and info is the best way to do it.:smile:
whitecobra98
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2006
i have no idea, but I can tell you they didn't go back where they came from, where the shims were when I redid my front end....replaced everything...alignment tech spent a good deal of time putting the shims where they belonged, but didn't complain...at least not out loud
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