when my car was running, it would idle high about 1800-2000 RPM, it would stall in gear unless i gave it very very little gas until i got up to speed, and it wouldnt build boost, the stock boost guage said about 5 PSI, but an aftermarket boost guage would only go up to 0 vacuum when i revved it up, you can hear the turbo whine, and the wastegate rod was adjusted for maximum boost. it has a chip from poston, 42.5 injectors, warlboro 340-hotwired, T33C turbo, adjustable FPR, and 160 degree Tstat. it is an 84. if anyone could give me any advise i would greatly appreciate it, i would really like to get this car running for spring. thank you
project car pain
- Thread starter nickd2689
- Start date
1dollardog
Are we there yet?
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2007
Mine had an idling problem till I swapped out the maf. Do you have a scan tool? You may check that or maybe the tps numbers.
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I took the time to read through some of your older posts...Has the car ran correctly since you had the turbo oiling issue back in August/Sept?
Just to note you will not be able to build boost in the car by reving it up in park.
To build boost you need to have a tight seal on the compressor side of the turbo....how are the O-Rings on the turbo to intake adapter? If there is a leak there it will cause the car to idle high. If you spray carb cleaner in that area does the idle change at all?
What are the current IAC readings on your scan tool?
Also **VERY IMPORTANT** do not have the wastegate adjusted for maximum boost. When you do finally find the problem the car will detonate and you will be asking how to change headgaskets. Make the wastegate rod so you only have to pull it slightly over the attachment on the exhaust housing.
Just to note you will not be able to build boost in the car by reving it up in park.
To build boost you need to have a tight seal on the compressor side of the turbo....how are the O-Rings on the turbo to intake adapter? If there is a leak there it will cause the car to idle high. If you spray carb cleaner in that area does the idle change at all?
What are the current IAC readings on your scan tool?
Also **VERY IMPORTANT** do not have the wastegate adjusted for maximum boost. When you do finally find the problem the car will detonate and you will be asking how to change headgaskets. Make the wastegate rod so you only have to pull it slightly over the attachment on the exhaust housing.
thanks guys, i appreciate the help. first of all, i did change out the tps with a used one from jays gn because i was getting about 4.5 volts at closed throttle and about .5 at WOT. however im not sure about the maf's condition, i dont have a scan tool, so when i get it running again id have to backprobe, and take readings with a DMM. the car hasnt ran correctly, even after the oil issue, however it was running for a while. I also cant say what the readings for the IAC, again ill have to back probe when i get the car running again. i should be working on it in a couple days. Im also not sure about the condition of the Orings, i kinda got the feeling the turbo wasn't on all the way when i installed it because it was such a pain to get on, i had to hit it with a rubber mallet. what should spraying carb clean do if there is a leak there?
turbonut85
Rarely used member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2008
first things first...get a scan tool. The carb cleaner will raise the rpm's if it is sucked into the intake...via a leak. (if the turbo isn't sealing, it will suck the carb cleaner into the intake if you spray it on there.)
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
X2
Nick,
Are you planning to keep the car, or get it to run, convert or sell it?
Sounds like you have an 86-87 TPS on the car. Get that taken care off.
You should be able to ge the car running with a DMM, but to get it to run correctly, you will need a scantool.
yea i got the TPS taken care of, i just bought a used one from jays GN, so the 86/87 have the voltage reversed? i would like to get the car running since ive put alot of time and money into it, and with the parts i have it should be pretty quick when i do. unfortionately i have to get it running again, ever since i did the 86/87 coil upgrade i cant get it running. so after that ill check the turbo seal to start. will that cause it to stall under load? what kind of scanner do you reccomend, and how much do they cost?
Ive got an OTC 4000e scanner on ebay
This scanner is not the best scanner you can buy, but I would consider it a very nice entry level scanner. It works on any ODB 1 GM car as is and will work with ford and mopar cars but you have to get the correct cable.
This scanner tells you trouble codes as well as real time sensor data. It also records via the ALDL port under the dash.
I used this scanner in my car until I upgraded and my dad still uses one for his car.
Here is a link to the auction
OTC 4000E Scanner /w Pathfinder module and GM cable:eBay Motors (item 110476358995 end time Jan-08-10 20:47:35 PST)
Thanks,
Jerry Berger Jr.
This scanner is not the best scanner you can buy, but I would consider it a very nice entry level scanner. It works on any ODB 1 GM car as is and will work with ford and mopar cars but you have to get the correct cable.
This scanner tells you trouble codes as well as real time sensor data. It also records via the ALDL port under the dash.
I used this scanner in my car until I upgraded and my dad still uses one for his car.
Here is a link to the auction
OTC 4000E Scanner /w Pathfinder module and GM cable:eBay Motors (item 110476358995 end time Jan-08-10 20:47:35 PST)
Thanks,
Jerry Berger Jr.
unfortionately I am on a tight budget this month, so im hoping i can get the car running without one for now, then after I pay my insurance and everything, i can buy one. however I am currently employed at a chrysler dealership, and have access to the DRB III, which has a Generic Scantool function, would this be adequate?
I would think so....
It should do most of what you need. You really need to have most of the base settings right on these cars to get them to run and idle correctly.
Good luck brother, keep posting your findings. The more info that is posted here, will lead to a board member or you figuring out the problem.
Jerry Berger jr
It should do most of what you need. You really need to have most of the base settings right on these cars to get them to run and idle correctly.
Good luck brother, keep posting your findings. The more info that is posted here, will lead to a board member or you figuring out the problem.
Jerry Berger jr
ok, here is what was bought for the coil, now that I take a look at it, i dont think it is the 86/87, there is some kind of converter on top of the module though. i think it is just because the new coil pack is smaller than the old one. here are some pictures of the coil pack/wires, top of the module, and the connector to the module, thanks again for the help! i plan on having this thing runnin this summer!
Attachments
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
The blue wires are the power wires, so, it won't matter if you switch them.
The others are the signal wires.
Measure the resistance accross the towers on the coil pack and post back.
weak spark?
ok, so i put on the new coil pack, it is the same setup i had before with the 86/87 coil, but the 84 module, now im sure i have the firing order correct and the car still wont start, i know i have fuel going to the rail now too. if i give it gas while i crank i can just barely get it to run but it feels like every cylinder is misfiring, and i can smell the unburned gas real strong. i checked my spark plugs, and they dont look too bad(they are somewhat new), when i checked spark it was white, maybe with a slight blue tint, im not sure if it was strong or not because there isnt much of a gap between the end and the electrode. I also verified that they were gapped correctly. what should I do now? sorry this was so long, thank you.
ok, so i put on the new coil pack, it is the same setup i had before with the 86/87 coil, but the 84 module, now im sure i have the firing order correct and the car still wont start, i know i have fuel going to the rail now too. if i give it gas while i crank i can just barely get it to run but it feels like every cylinder is misfiring, and i can smell the unburned gas real strong. i checked my spark plugs, and they dont look too bad(they are somewhat new), when i checked spark it was white, maybe with a slight blue tint, im not sure if it was strong or not because there isnt much of a gap between the end and the electrode. I also verified that they were gapped correctly. what should I do now? sorry this was so long, thank you.
Almost sounds like a maf problem
I thought weak spark was normally orangeish in color. Try disconnecting the maf sensor and starting the car. If it fires up or tries to run better then your maf sensor is toast.
By unplugging the maf sensor, the car goes into limp home mode and and feeds the vehicle a set safe amount of fuel.
I just worked on a car that had a bad maf and it would start burn the fuel pump prime gas off and die.
I unhooked the maf and the car fired right up. The car wouldnt run at all with the bad maf though.
Just something else to try.
Jerry
I thought weak spark was normally orangeish in color. Try disconnecting the maf sensor and starting the car. If it fires up or tries to run better then your maf sensor is toast.
By unplugging the maf sensor, the car goes into limp home mode and and feeds the vehicle a set safe amount of fuel.
I just worked on a car that had a bad maf and it would start burn the fuel pump prime gas off and die.
I unhooked the maf and the car fired right up. The car wouldnt run at all with the bad maf though.
Just something else to try.
Jerry
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