Powermaster Vs. Vacuum

Bowtie Mafia

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
I've been having problems with my current Powermaster brake set up. I'm considering my options and want to know what you guys think. Is it worth it to get my Powermaster system rebuilt? Or, should i switch to a Vacuum set up?
Thanks.
 
I'm a recent convert to vac brakes. No issues with the install, very straight forward. If your car is a very low mileage original, you may want to buy another Powermaster unit. Otherwise definitely switch to vac or hydaboost.
 
I converted to vac and it feels better than powermaster unit, my motor went so i went the reliable and inexpensive way. I do have the ball and switch for sale if u r interested.
 
Forget the powermaster !!

I don't know why they made it, but its all crap. if and when it goes bad, it costs between $500-$1,200 for one, depending on whether its remanufacture or new.
the accumilator ball can go out, the brake switch/sensor, the motor underneath the cilynder, its a real headache and pain in the @ss.
I switched to vacuum and its great, a whole vacuum set will cost $120-$150
Don't have to worry about none of the above issues that comes with a PM when you go vacuum.

Hope this helps, and Good luck!:cool:
 
It really depends on what your goals are. If you want to keep a stock look to your car, you can get a Cardone replacement PM with a warranty. They are over $500, but at least you'd have a warranty. Keep your fluid clean and it will last.

Vac is an easy installation and is the cheapest of your options. It works well and many TR owners have converted with no problem at all.

Hydroboost is also a nice system, but it is a little more complicated and more expensive than vacuum brakes (around $300 for Cardone parts for a 1984 TR). It does offer superior line pressure when compared to the other two systems, though. I have it on my car because I like the pedal feel of hydroboost when compared to vac. I drove a vacuum TR and a hydro TR before I made my decision and I haven't looked back.
 
Thanks for your help so far guys, the other forum i tried wasn't very helpful.
I've looked for Vacuum brake set ups, I've found them for $350, they have everything I'll need. Where are they for $120-150 range and would I need to buy any other hardware?
 
Thanks for your help so far guys, the other forum i tried wasn't very helpful.
I've looked for Vacuum brake set ups, I've found them for $350, they have everything I'll need. Where are they for $120-150 range and would I need to buy any other hardware?

You should be able to buy them used in the $120-150 range. I bought the whole setup out of an Olds Cutlass Supreme at the bone yard for under $100. All you need is the brake pedal, vacuum booster and master cylinder.
 
PM user "Dino1". I bought the whole kit from him for like $150. If you prefer new, you can look up master cylinder, brake booster, & hose for a 1987 NA Regal or Monte Carlo. You will need to get the pedal from the junkyard or I'll sell you one cheap, let me know.
 
I sell these units for 160.00 shipped, I have sold many of them. They work great. I recently converted my car to an LS1 4 wheel disc brake setup with a vacume brake conversion, and the powermaster or the hydroboost can not light a candle to it. This setup is by far the best bang for the buck in brakeing for our cars. I am currently working on putting together a complete system for under 1000.00 shipped to you.
 
Dino1, please contact me for a brake conversion set up....thnx 315 725 2111 - Steve
 
hello peoples: You want to look at this if it's not deleted.
goggle: you tube.com.user/powerbrakeservice
IBBY
 
I went to GOOGLE it and it brought me to a site where they mandated that I fill out a survey and I attempted to get out of it without filling out some foolish Fu.....ing survey and it locked up my PC......so Fu..... it and anyone else connected to it !....thanx anyway....steve
 
hello: puters are a great tool and can cause the user to go F***ing Nuts!! I can get to it but that's me.
I've had a few episodes of loosing it with the puter. Try agin in a while.
IBBY
 
Thanks for all your help guys. I put on my new vacuum brake system on last weekend. LOVE IT! My brakes actually work and I can drive my GN again.
However, i do have a new question. My cruise control doesn't work like it did. Am i not getting enough vacuum to run the cruise control.
Thanks again, I really appreciate your help.
 
I don't know why they made it, but its all crap. if and when it goes bad, it costs between $500-$1,200 for one, depending on whether its remanufacture or new.
the accumilator ball can go out, the brake switch/sensor, the motor underneath the cilynder, its a real headache and pain in the @ss.
I switched to vacuum and its great, a whole vacuum set will cost $120-$150
Don't have to worry about none of the above issues that comes with a PM when you go vacuum.

Hope this helps, and Good luck!:cool:


Spoken by someone who truely doesn't understand how to maintain them properly. :mad:

Sorry, but just my feelings. I'm still running both my original 25 year old PM's.

Proper maintenance and they live and work great. Improper maintenance and attention, and they crap out, and get a bad rap by those that don't understand them.
 
Spoken by someone who truely doesn't understand how to maintain them properly. :mad:

Sorry, but just my feelings. I'm still running both my original 25 year old PM's.

Proper maintenance and they live and work great. Improper maintenance and attention, and they crap out, and get a bad rap by those that don't understand them.

hello TurboDave: I'd like to here how you properly maintain and attend the PM. I think things that sit for periods of time like winter months cause more problems than not. I see your from the South. Does your car ever sit for months at a time? I bet not and IMO that's what keeps PM's living.
IBBY
 
The main thing is keeping the fluid clean, which is just a matter of changing it more often than your conventional vacuum systems. Brake fluid is so often neglected and I am guilty of it myself. If you want to keep a PM system living, change the fluid every other year.

It is true that idle time kills accumulators. Honestly, I never had a problem with PM systems in any TR I ever owned. I only switched to Hydroboost on my current ride of 13 years because I liked the performance and pedal feel.
 
hello TurboDave: I'd like to here how you properly maintain and attend the PM. I think things that sit for periods of time like winter months cause more problems than not. I see your from the South. Does your car ever sit for months at a time? I bet not and IMO that's what keeps PM's living.
IBBY


My GN's both sit out the entire winter tucked away in the basement garage. Generally Nov. to Mar. And neither of them is driven much more than 500 miles in a year if even that.

The problems arrising from PM issues is primarilly related to being ingnored. At the first sign of an issue you don't drive around and ignore it. Eventually it will become MUCH worse, and then total failure. And of course the owner is blaming the PM for leaving him stranded. "Oh is that what that little red brake light means??" :rolleyes:
 
hello: TurboDave I think you should drive your cars more. Maybe all your miles are going down the track but your weather isn't that bad (or is it) to hold you back. I don't drive my TB in the snow unless I had to and salt is another thing. The older I get the more I feel like Jay Lenno as he says like drive em and fix em when there broke. Get your cars out in that Southern air and show em off.
I'll be in that Tenn. air in the future and I'd like to see a few TB out there.
IBBY
 
We get small snowfalls, and minor ice storms on and off most all winter and they slurry the roads here with salt like chemicals. So no. They're NOT coming out in the winter.
 
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