Power window Switch??'s

[Madcat455]

Hey.. I need to know "HOW" that switch works for the early '80's GM cars...

Is the Window motor grounded, and open/close decided by running positive current down one wire, with the other wire in an "OPEN" state (ie: dead)??

OR: Do they work by reversing the polarity of the 2 wires to the motor? IE.. INPUT is RED+ and BLACK -.. then the wires YELLOW and BLUE to the motor could be: OPEN= YELLOW + and BLUE -, then CLOSE= YELLOW - and BLUE + ??

I need to know, the ASC control module in my 2000 Alero fried, and I just want to hotwire it to a switch, but that motor follows the polarity reversing scenario. SO.. if our switches work like #2, then I can get a $10 switch.. instead of a $200 brain...lol.

The ALero is a POS anyway, with no headliner... so looks are of no concern. I'm using two wires and reversing it myself at the plug to operate it now.. so I know it'll work, if I can find a switch that works like that.


THANKS!!!

 

[LITLV6]

:wink:

Hey.. I need to know "HOW" that switch works for the early '80's GM cars...

Is the Window motor grounded, and open/close decided by running positive current down one wire, with the other wire in an "OPEN" state (ie: dead)??

OR: Do they work by reversing the polarity of the 2 wires to the motor? IE.. INPUT is RED+ and BLACK -.. then the wires YELLOW and BLUE to the motor could be: OPEN= YELLOW + and BLUE -, then CLOSE= YELLOW - and BLUE + ??

I need to know, the ASC control module in my 2000 Alero fried, and I just want to hotwire it to a switch, but that motor follows the polarity reversing scenario. SO.. if our switches work like #2, then I can get a $10 switch.. instead of a $200 brain...lol.

The ALero is a POS anyway, with no headliner... so looks are of no concern. I'm using two wires and reversing it myself at the plug to operate it now.. so I know it'll work, if I can find a switch that works like that.


THANKS!!!

its been awhile since i've had my fluke attached at one of the switches but i do believe its ground at rest and throws from ground to positive on which way you throw the switch, so yes just reverse polarity

 

[salvageV6]

They reverse polarity to the motor.

If you got a passenger side switch you should be able to make it work.

Power on A, ground on B and E.

Motor on C and D. C is up D would be down for +12 wire feeding it.

Down switch closes A and D puts power on D, C is N/C to ground E.

Up switch puts +12 on C and N/C down switch puts ground on D thru B.

 

[Madcat455]

COOL.. now to see if I can find one. Local auto stores used to have them in the 'Help' containers.. but the one I tried this am didn't have a spot for them anymore.

I'll try a few others, or else order online.

THANKS a lot!!

 

[rev. 3:11]

Hey, sorry to hijack but...
anybody know of, or perhaps have, an upgrade plug & play window switch w/ auto down feature?
D

 

[LITLV6]

COOL.. now to see if I can find one. Local auto stores used to have them in the 'Help' containers.. but the one I tried this am didn't have a spot for them anymore.

I'll try a few others, or else order online.

THANKS a lot!!

not sure where you live. i'm in cincinnati area and KOI autoparts has them for sure. if you have napa or autozone, maybe even a pep boys or an oreilly's. one of those should have it. i just bought one a week ago at a KOI. KOI stands for (Kentucky,Ohio,Indiana) if your wondering Wtf LOL :biggrin:

 

[olds443]

I bought one at Kragen's (O'reillys, CSK) a few weeks ago for $14.99. Kirban's carries the exact same one for $5 more.
They are almost identical to the original switch.

 

[Madcat455]

Hey, sorry to hijack but...
anybody know of, or perhaps have, an upgrade plug & play window switch w/ auto down feature?
D

I think there was a vendor on here working on them a while back.. can't remember who though (Maybe Mark Heuffman (sp?)).

Don't remember specifics on it though.. good luck.

 

[Madcat455]

Alright.. got the switch, but I can't figure the damn thing out... LOL.

I have 4 wires, and 5 terminals.. I used my multimeter to figure out the "pin out" of the switch, but there's NO way I can think of to hook it up to have both open/close without blowing fuses.

Here's the pin out of the switch, I used the two colored circles for power/ground.. Seemed logical since it seemed the operation of the switch revolved around those two.

SO.. I have 12+ and 12- going to the red/black("D" is the longer post on the switch, which I assumed was ground).. then I have a red and yellow motor wires. I added an extra wire to the yellow to make 5, as that's the only way it looks like the switch will work.

SO.. If I put Yello#1 wire to "A", and Red to "B", and yellow #2 to "E", I blow the fuse cause the +/- is shorted in the switches neutral state.

IF I put the Red to "A", Yellow #1 to "B", and Yellow #2 to "E", the sunroof will open (or close) in the switches neutral state.

HOW did the factory wire this so that there's NO current flowing through it in it's neutral state?? I'm stumped.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Turbo Window Express

Auto up AND down!

 

[LITLV6]

Alright.. got the switch, but I can't figure the damn thing out... LOL.

I have 4 wires, and 5 terminals.. I used my multimeter to figure out the "pin out" of the switch, but there's NO way I can think of to hook it up to have both open/close without blowing fuses.

Here's the pin out of the switch, I used the two colored circles for power/ground.. Seemed logical since it seemed the operation of the switch revolved around those two.

SO.. I have 12+ and 12- going to the red/black("D" is the longer post on the switch, which I assumed was ground).. then I have a red and yellow motor wires. I added an extra wire to the yellow to make 5, as that's the only way it looks like the switch will work.

SO.. If I put Yello#1 wire to "A", and Red to "B", and yellow #2 to "E", I blow the fuse cause the +/- is shorted in the switches neutral state.

IF I put the Red to "A", Yellow #1 to "B", and Yellow #2 to "E", the sunroof will open (or close) in the switches neutral state.

HOW did the factory wire this so that there's NO current flowing through it in it's neutral state?? I'm stumped.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

ok, i'm not near my car so i cant just look. tell me your colors of wires and i'll try to help from there. i've wired a few of these, but it's been a lil while. if my memory serves me correct, they rest at ground and when you hit the switch it picks up one side and turns it positive. then when you let go, obviously it goes back to ground. tell me your colors and i'll try to help you out. if all else fails, i'll be working on mine early next week to do injectors, pump, hotwire, and more tuning so i can definately look then to say for sure. you could even take a pic of it and i might be able to tell you then too.

 

[Madcat455]

ok, i'm not near my car so i cant just look. tell me your colors of wires and i'll try to help from there. i've wired a few of these, but it's been a lil while. if my memory serves me correct, they rest at ground and when you hit the switch it picks up one side and turns it positive. then when you let go, obviously it goes back to ground. tell me your colors and i'll try to help you out. if all else fails, i'll be working on mine early next week to do injectors, pump, hotwire, and more tuning so i can definately look then to say for sure. you could even take a pic of it and i might be able to tell you then too.

That's just it, I'm not using it for a power window on a GN, I'm using it for my sunroof motor on my '00 Alero. I have 4 wires, red black (12+/-) and Red and Yellow going to the motor.


I'm thinking maybe I got a bad switch also(If "c" and "a" weren't closed at rest, it'd be fine), it was an opened package at NAPA but it was the only one they had. I've tried every configuration and they ALL lead to a blown fuse, only one direction, or the motor constantly running in one direction

I'm just going to say FK it, and buy an actual toggle online(if the local radio shack don't have one)..LOL. I found one online for $10, hope the RS has one to save time.


Thanks for all your help, Would've been cool to get it to work.. but oh well.

 

[salvageV6]

Assuming those letters are on the switch and it's made for a passenger side window in a TR hook it up as follows.

Ground both B and E.

Power +12 to A.

Motor wire 1 to C.

Motor wire 2 to D.

Try that and see if it reverses.

In the OFF position both sides of the motor should be on the ground wire normally closed via E and C terminals and the normally closed B and D terminals.

A should not be closed to anything at rest power should go nowhere via terminal A at rest.

 

[LITLV6]

That's just it, I'm not using it for a power window on a GN, I'm using it for my sunroof motor on my '00 Alero. I have 4 wires, red black (12+/-) and Red and Yellow going to the motor.


I'm thinking maybe I got a bad switch also(If "c" and "a" weren't closed at rest, it'd be fine), it was an opened package at NAPA but it was the only one they had. I've tried every configuration and they ALL lead to a blown fuse, only one direction, or the motor constantly running in one direction

I'm just going to say FK it, and buy an actual toggle online(if the local radio shack don't have one)..LOL. I found one online for $10, hope the RS has one to save time.


Thanks for all your help, Would've been cool to get it to work.. but oh well.

ok after scrutinizing that diagram, the switch is either bad..... or you have the pin out wrong. that diagram wouldn't make a window motor work either.

5 wire only works when you have a ground or positive rest point on both motor wires. when you move the switch it leaves the rest point alone on one motor wire and the other wire is thrown to the oposite polarity. if you throw the switch the opposite direction it reverses. you have somethin off a lil for sure. i'd recheck your findings on the pin out (or maybe the switch is bad....)

 

[LITLV6]

Assuming those letters are on the switch and it's made for a passenger side window in a TR hook it up as follows.

Ground both B and E.

Power +12 to A.

Motor wire 1 to C.

Motor wire 2 to D.

Try that and see if it reverses.

In the OFF position both sides of the motor should be on the ground wire normally closed via E and C terminals and the normally closed B and D terminals.

A should not be closed to anything at rest power should go nowhere via terminal A at rest.

this is what i was tryin to explain. thats a better explanation then the one you posted the last time salvage

i knew where you were goin with it but i didn't have a switch to look at to confirm it and i didnt wanna confuse someone worse.

 

[Madcat455]

It's a bad switch then.. A and C are closed at rest, energizing the circuit. Damn, That's what I thought.

Maybe I'll try to find another, cause I highly doubt a RS toggle will hold up to the current(and I REALLY want to see it work :tongue:lol).

Hope some other parts stores carry them locally.... seems a waste to order a freaking $10 switch.. LOL.


OH, and I just made up those letters... there's no markings on the switch at all, it is for a '80s GM car though (they used all the same switches cept for the drivers)

 

[LITLV6]

someone near ya should. just call around to your local parts store for help section stuff. i would find it hard to believe that noone around you carried it.

 

[salvageV6]

G Body parts used

junkyard used

neighbors car used...

Sunroof Buick/GM motor switch should be the same.

Two pairs of contacts SHOULD be closed at rest, when you move the switch in one direction ONE contact of the two sets should go to the 5th terminal.

In the other direction one of the other pair of contacts should go to that 5th terminal.

That 5th terminal would be the hot or where the +12 would go.

The two contacts that don't transfer at all or the N/C ones go to ground.

The common ones for each switch action go to the motor. One stays ground and the other goes to the 5th terminal or HOT when the switch is pressed in one direction.

I'd double check that switch slowly and accurately again with an ohm meter and make note of what happens at rest, and in each position again in detail on every pin and clearly label them etc.

 

[Madcat455]

Thanks A LOT guys.. you got me on the right path.

I got it figured out this am...

A&E are ground, C&D are motor wires, and B is 12+.

Works like a charm now


Thanks again!!!!

 

[LITLV6]

Thanks A LOT guys.. you got me on the right path.

I got it figured out this am...

A&E are ground, C&D are motor wires, and B is 12+.

Works like a charm now


Thanks again!!!!

cool! glad to hear it