Everytime the car sees knock, it adds a click to your knock count counter. So after driving the car for weeks..it will be up somewhat. You want it at zero, unplug your ecm..wait..it will be at zero and start from there. A lot of things can cuase knock that is not racing/tuning related. Exhuast, motor mounts, transmissions, belt tensioner, etc.. The trick is to look for knock while the car is at WOT.. and the knock doesnt go away..
I find my car goes the fastest when tuned at the edge of knock. Whereas it sees a ripple of knock like .2,.1,.3,.4,.1,.2 etc..I make a small adjustment get it to zero knock..thats where it flies. Some call it tickle the knock detector. In the case of alky..too much yields zero knock, but fattens the motor and makes it sluggish losing MPH.
Knock(KR) will reduce timing and pull boost out depending on severity. Two knock counts means nothing.. becuase we dont know when theyre happening. If the knock is occurring at WOT in the middle of gears, then it has to be addressed via fuel/octane.
FWIW, Jason and Joe , 1 1/2 months ago I was at Reynold for the Buick Race and was showing Roy(Boost) aka Laz racing runs of my car on the laptop(Direct Scan).. he sees 740's for O2's and first thing he says.. man thats rich..
I go huh..ya.. we run ours at 680-700
Needless to say when someone who runs 9.6 at 142 on a 109 block speaks ..I listen.
So 760's are way fat
.
Will I run mine at 680's and 26 PSI boost.. hell no
.. thats 1800 degree territory
The stock O2 may be inaccurate.. And I too use an EGT as well..but I will say that inaccurate O2 sure does coincide with my fancy EGT.
Peace guys..