Nozzle Size & Accumulator ????

I could probably get my hand into the up pipe to thread the nozzle, but i still ask:

1) does the mist nozzle replace the NOS fan spray body and and jet

2) the M10 sprays 6.32-10 GPH and the M15 sprays 9.49-15.0 GPH, so is the M15 too much for my engine?

I'm just trying to understand all the options. Just as I respect what John (Red Regal T) has contributed, I looking for options.
 
1) yes it should. in my SMC kit the braided line screws directly into the 90* fitting which screws into the McMaster-Carr nozzle.

2) i bought my kit from a V8 guy so i assume its the M15 plus i remember i think it proved it was a M15 once somehow. anyways, i get no bog unless i turn the activation point down to come on at 8-10 psi. it was at 13 and i got no bog whatsoever. i turned it down to like 8-10 or so and it bogged a little for a second but the resulting jolt in the boost picking up to 24 lbs made it easy to deal with. i doubt there would be much, if any bog from a rolling punch. my friend also told me that if you set the turn on point earlier you can run more boost w/o transitional KR b/c the alky gets in and starts to work before the temps can get too high. if the turn on was at say 18 psi the temps would get too hot and you would get too much KR b/c the alky couldnt work its magic too cool down the temps. if you set it at a lower psi the alky can get in and cool down the engine before the temps become unmanageable.
 
gofst..... there are 4-5 different style nozzles out there. After all the hoop-la on this thread I'm not about to suggest which one is best. Do some in-depth research then pick one.
You didn't mention what turbo and IC you have, or what boost you'll run at. That makes a diff.
It's been awhile since I've done the math, but I'll go out on a limb anyway and suggest something in the 15 gph to get you started.
If you talk specifics you can email me direct at steve.hill@verizon.net
 
Originally posted by Steve Hill
No flames... I just respectfully disagree with the misconception there is "no difference in nozzles unless running 10's".
Hogwash. I don't know where this came from.
Better performance can be realized by anyone: 13, 12, 11, etc., second cars.
See, misting nozzles are just like anything else in the world. Like, there are cars, and then there are CARS! Know what I mean?. They all get you from point A to point B, right? You know where I'm going with this.
It might be hard to figure out nozzle differences if you haven't tried it, but, believe me, there is good scientific data to back this up. As well as my own experience. But lets not get too technical here.

I don't know why you think I might flame you because I may disagree with you or just ask for answers. No flames intended. It is my view there's no difference in nozzles, especially in cars running 13s and 12s. Why do I say this? Posts like the one above. Sorry, but it's totally VAGUE. :confused: I'm looking for information about your claims and there isn't any. I hear..... better performance can be realized by anyone but you don't say in what respect? You mentioned driveability problems in another post.... I don't have any driveability problems with my NOS jets and I drive, plenty. What did you mean, exactly? What scientific or technical data, as mentioned above, does one need if they don't have any knock retard at whatever performance level they're at.

People who have never run alky and have no knowledge of it are asking me about fogger nozzles and two stage and stuff like that. To someone who considering an alky kit, these terms are just confusing and are not helpful. After they get a kit on their car, I guess they can use rocket fuel, if they want.

I'm just going on my merry way telling TR guys, that are totally unaware, they can have a very inexpensive diy alky kit that is easy to install and not complicated. It's easy to tune, very reliable, and they can work their way into the 11s if that's their desire, without ever having to buy race gas. ;)
 
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