New HD actuator, low boost???

[Sal 87WE2]

Hey all, i installed my new HD actuator yesterday (p/n 1011-144) and 1/8th distance from the puck shaft, test drove and it was *only* at 12lbs??? I tightened the rod end as tight as i could until it bottomed out and then i could only get 22 lbs from it??? What am i doing wrong? Vacuum line to w/g actuator is coming straight from turbo compressor cover with no tee's or y's....

 

[Sal 87WE2]

Anyone?

 

[fubar2.5]

IMO the easiest and best thing to do is put the Y back on. you will gain back 4 or5 lbs of boost and will spool quicker.
Or cut the rod but no going back after that.

 

[Razor]

Typically on the HD actuators lowest boost is like 18 psi.

Now.. I have'nt dug to see if the part number your using is in fact a HD unit or not. One thing for sure, the car spools slow when hooked up tuner style meaning hose from compressor to gate. So I would re-install the factory "Y" and go from there.

 

[Sal 87WE2]

I think i just may have a stock adj wastegate even thought the sticker shows p/n for hd actuator. I havent had any slow spooling issues, it spools lightning fast :biggrin: i was just replacing the stock style actuator because i am having boost creep at 27psi (with a ported wastegate hole)...

 

[Sal 87WE2]

After doing some searching on this board, this is why i think i have a standard actuator:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/1576476-post2.html

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sending full boost to the actuator is going to keep the boost down. You need something in-line (like a rjc valve) to restrict the boost to the actuator. The more you restrict, the more boost you will get.

 

[Sal 87WE2]

Now I am beginning to understand! Sooo, since my car never had the factory tee and only an ugly brass bleeder valve, what can I buy from the local parts house to simulate the factory tee? If anything?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Brass bleeder? That sound like a RJC valve. Is that inline? Did you try and adjust? Tighten it up for more boost.

 

[Sal 87WE2]

Brass bleeder? That sound like a RJC valve. Is that inline? Did you try and adjust? Tighten it up for more boost.

No, i wish it were an RJC valve. This is something out of the plumbing section installed by the previous owner. I took it off, it has a large black knob on it. I would like to install something like the factory Y with the .050 restrictor or buy something at advance auto similar the Y. The old brass bleeder valve is very large and i would like not to reuse it if i can.

Anything come to mind that i can maybe modify? I think i can buy the factory Y from Brian at Gbodyparts i was just hoping to fix it today...

 

[GNVYUS 1]

It's pretty clear that...

You don't have the HD actuator
You need to reinstall the Manual Boost Controller

Get the RJC or one off Ebay for $10-$20. Adjust it so the MBC adds at least a few psi of extra boost over the actuators spring tension (12 psi) and do the rest with the adjustable wastegate arm.

 

[Sal 87WE2]

OK, i have another actuator being sent to me.

Just to follow up, here is what i did over the weekend. I reinstalled the bleeder valve and it did nothing for me while the valve was opened. Here is a picture of it:

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Is that how it was on the car when you got it?

So ask yourself, hows the valve supposed to regulate psi when the signal that's being sent from the turbo to it is also feeding the WG actuator?

Try one end of the MBC being feed the turbo signal and the other end of it being the WGA feed. It should have an arrow on it, though that MBC is one I've never seen before.

 

[Sal 87WE2]

Is that how it was on the car when you got it?

So ask yourself, hows the valve supposed to regulate psi when the signal that's being sent from the turbo to it is also feeding the WG actuator?

Try one end of the MBC being feed the turbo signal and the other end of it being the WGA feed. It should have an arrow on it, though that MBC is one I've never seen before.

Yes, this is exactly how it was installed when i bought the car. The name "Parker" is on top of the valve...

 

[gunslinger]

I looks like the valve you have now uses the same idea as the ATR on I had. You still need to use the factory "Y" with it to limit the boost signal going to the WG actuator.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

That MBC is setup differently than the others I've seen where it's the screw on top, turbo signal on the bottom and the 90 degree fitting is the feed for the WGA.

I'd save yourself some headaches and get the RJC and be done with it. I have the 12psi WGA spring and it's been over 30psi (not by choice) without an issue like the way I've mentioned.