new Comp Cams?

[clean86]

Thx man, for the support and looking up that info. I don't think the car has a choice but to hall a$$ once it is back running. And I hope that is SOON! If it went 12.30 with 4 dead lobes on that 218 it should fly with a cam with all it's lumps!!

Maybe then I can beat Jack,,,Maybe.

 

[Russ Merritt]

OK, saw my new 218/212 cam today (part# 69-400-8) Non billet roller, uses all stock hardware. What is the verdict on the button? Precision will have the correct solid shimmed button? Comp says to use the regular spring loaded piece but after looking at how wide the lobes are I would rather do the solid button I can set the clearance with. This cam will be OK with big power? I have ATRs billet roller in my currant engine and don't need the hastle of non proven parts. I'll get the billet if need be.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
Comp Cams has come out with a new cam series and fit the Buick engines. It is original stock roller hardness that comes in many new engines from the factory. It is priced somewhere between a billet and cast price. (about $800 for the complete cam kit) It is ground on an even fire blank instead of a re-ground odd fire blank. This is straight off the press and available now! The source for this information is the GSCA Club! I don't know the cam profile but it sounds like it will make big power! Gene

Gene, we have been discussing the "new cam series" in this thread for 3 months. What am I missing?

 

[EightSecV6]

Ductile Iron, these cams have been available and run low 10's in two of out street engines fo over 6 mos. They are available in MANY different custom grinds.It's great that Richard has "discovered" it, probably be the next wave of club cams specifically designed for and sold exclusively to the GSCA due to all the research and development they have put into it!!!!!! here we go........
Bill

 

[STP]

Now that is funny....

 

[Nick Micale]

 

[Gr82baGN]

I just had the new Ductile Iron comp cams 206/206 roller cam kit installed on my car a week ago. Jack Merkel (NJ) did the install and it was a drop in unit and required no machining or block modifications. He also used the cc valve spring kit and Manley pushrods. I am still learning how things work with these beautiful black beasts of ours so I can't shed much on the technical side of this issue; however I will say it really woke my car up. I find the car responds mush better from a red light and she seems to come on stronger at the top end. She also has a much different sound when I open the exhaust up and smash the pedal. I plan on doing some track time next week and I'll post some results using this cam. So far I'm very pleased with the cam.

 

[gmturbo]

camshaft lobe worn

what are the general signs when a camshaft lobe is worn?

does the car idle different? does it backfire under accel? does
it run rich due to the lack of valve not opening???
need feedback please

 

[lazaris]

Bill,

Do you think these cams are capable of runnnig larger durations and lifts say 236-242 dur with 150lbs on the seat?

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by lazaris
Bill,

Do you think these cams are capable of runnnig larger durations and lifts say 236-242 dur with 150lbs on the seat?

Bill may have a different opinion, but let me give you mine.

First off, with that big of a cam, you must have LOTS of air flow like with stage heads. Also, it would need lift in the .600" area and that would require spring pressure almost double what you said.

Since you have described a "full race" motor, a billet cam would be in best.

 

[lazaris]

Nick,

Thanks for the feedback. Although there are quite a few people running 230+ duration on Gn-1's. Duration can used to help out a poor flowing port as well.

 

[EightSecV6]

I sort of afgree with Nick but I would limit it to about 225 deg of duration if you are using 231 cubic inches simply because you will need to spin the thing up too high to use a hydraulic lifter as it will float no matter how tight you attempt to make the spring. If it is going in a 274 then it could stand a little more , somewhere in the neighborhood of 230. I have found hydraulic lifters on a Buick, whether it be a billet, cast,roller or flat tappet to be OUT OF ASS at 6200-6300 at around 20# of boost, raise the boost and the rpm numbers will be lower.
Bill

P.S. You could run the longer duration if you wanted to advance it but what is the point?

 

[lazaris]

Bill,

Thanks for the feedback. Do you think its because of the weight of the hyd roller or it being just hydraulic that it will float the valve? Comp has a new hyd roller lifter out that changes the oriice in the lifter to increase rpm limit to 7000 or so they claim. I think you set the lash/preload at zero for them. I'm out of wnd at 6300-6500 with a 220. Im tring to decide if I should make the switch to a solid roller. Thanks again Bill.

 

[Ed Valvo]

Wow, 6500 RPM? Stock cranks? Girdled? Or just capped?

 

[EightSecV6]

The fact that it is hydraulic causes it to float. I really dont want to get in a long debate about what works with lash settings, springs, spring pressures,duration,preload etc etc etc.
To sum up your situation Lazaris, if you are turning it up to 6500, you need a solid lifter cam, roller or flat. You can run a zero lash lifter and this will allow it to spin up higher but you will have the same valve clatter at idle and you will have to adjust valves just a frequent as you would with a solid. The ONLY reasons for running a hydraulic flat tappet is expense, noise and maintenance . A hydraulic roller will give you a little more HP due to friction loss and you wont ever have to adjust the rockers.It is all about the combination and your goals.
Bill

 

[lazaris]

Bill,

Thanks I was leaning in that direction.