Good Afternoon to all! I am the one that had the post about the Trans Go HD2 shift kit. I will give a little background first. The transmission in the car was the original TH200R4. It had only 56,000 miles on it. I had a B&M Shift Kit put in at like 35,000 miles. I also had an Art Carr 2800 stall lock up converter put in at 45,000 miles. The car up to two weeks ago would easily catch a second at part throttle and would go sideways at anything approaching full throttle. This was on the 215/65 Eagle GT tires with little tread left. Recently, I raised the boost to 22psi with a PTE 52 and a V-4 intercooler. I am running 23 degrees of timing and the tune is about as good as it gets. I also put new 255/60-15 tires on the back. The car has drag shocks and springs with good weight transfer. It just seemed like to me that the shifts where getting longer and had less snap. So, I took the car in for a build up of the transmission as I figured that maybe the clutches maybe were getting a bit week. I requested Blue Plate clutches and a High Performance Servo. Upon getting the car back, the trnsmission seemed to be a little better, but still lacked in a hard shift. It was like all was well with the rebuild, but it shifted like a stock transmission. So, I took it back to the builder. His suggestion was to install a different shift kit as he felt that there was a possibility that some valves or springs in the valve body may have gotten weak. So, at additional cost, a Trans Go HD2 Full Race Shift Kit was installed. At this point, the shift did improve somewhat, but they still were not near as hard as I would like them. The problem is, the shifts from 1 to 2 are harder at part throttle than at wide open throttle. So, now for the questions.
1. Upon looking in the box that the shift kit came in, some parts were seemingly not used. One of them was an orifice cup that was supposed to be used after drilling a hole in the piston and enlarging it to .157, since this is the 2nd piston; if this was not done, could that be the cause of my problem? The only other possibility is that with the original B&m Shift Kit, maybe this mod was done already, therefore not needed. Does anyone have any thoughts?
2. Also, it seems that the large acumulator sprind along with the 1 to 2 tv shift valve were also not used...any thoughts?
3. Also, 2 gold washers that were intended to be installed on either side of the 3-2 piston were not used....maybe already done with the B&M or just skipped.....thoughts?
4. Finally, on the instruction sheet, on the next to the last page there is a sheet for shift feel customizing. It says to make max throttle 1 to 2 shift firmer (shorter) to install 3 3/8th" standard nuts on top of the 1 to 2 acumulator piston to effectively block the acumulator or shorten it's travel. The tech at Trans Go said that would give me the firmest possible 1 to 2 shift at WOT. Has anyone done this mod and would you recommend it?
Hopefully, with your opinions, I can go armed with the info necessary to get with the builder and get it right. With the amount of horsepower and the weight of the vehicle, you would think that the car would come unglued at wide open throttle. I know it did before the tire change. The builder also seems to thing that the slightly higher stall of the converter is softening the shift in some way. Is that possible? I feel that it is not as a few weeks back, the car had the shift that I wanted. Another possibility is that with the good weight transfer and decent tires, maybe the car just hooks, and it is all in my mind! As usual, all imput is greatly appreciated!
P.S.- I lamost forgot, upon questioning him about the clutches, he said that he put in Borg- Warner Clutches in stead of the Blue Plate Clutches that I requested. Would this have anything to do with not getting the firmest shift possible. The owner of the shop says no and I think more like maybe....Thanks
1. Upon looking in the box that the shift kit came in, some parts were seemingly not used. One of them was an orifice cup that was supposed to be used after drilling a hole in the piston and enlarging it to .157, since this is the 2nd piston; if this was not done, could that be the cause of my problem? The only other possibility is that with the original B&m Shift Kit, maybe this mod was done already, therefore not needed. Does anyone have any thoughts?
2. Also, it seems that the large acumulator sprind along with the 1 to 2 tv shift valve were also not used...any thoughts?
3. Also, 2 gold washers that were intended to be installed on either side of the 3-2 piston were not used....maybe already done with the B&M or just skipped.....thoughts?
4. Finally, on the instruction sheet, on the next to the last page there is a sheet for shift feel customizing. It says to make max throttle 1 to 2 shift firmer (shorter) to install 3 3/8th" standard nuts on top of the 1 to 2 acumulator piston to effectively block the acumulator or shorten it's travel. The tech at Trans Go said that would give me the firmest possible 1 to 2 shift at WOT. Has anyone done this mod and would you recommend it?
Hopefully, with your opinions, I can go armed with the info necessary to get with the builder and get it right. With the amount of horsepower and the weight of the vehicle, you would think that the car would come unglued at wide open throttle. I know it did before the tire change. The builder also seems to thing that the slightly higher stall of the converter is softening the shift in some way. Is that possible? I feel that it is not as a few weeks back, the car had the shift that I wanted. Another possibility is that with the good weight transfer and decent tires, maybe the car just hooks, and it is all in my mind! As usual, all imput is greatly appreciated!
P.S.- I lamost forgot, upon questioning him about the clutches, he said that he put in Borg- Warner Clutches in stead of the Blue Plate Clutches that I requested. Would this have anything to do with not getting the firmest shift possible. The owner of the shop says no and I think more like maybe....Thanks
