Need help on 3800 Crankshaft Sensor please...

323GTX

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Joined
Aug 26, 2001
Replaceing my crank sensor on my 1990 FWD 3800...

Can't get the crankshaft pully 15/16 bolt loose. Can't keep the crank from turning. I was able to do it years ago on my other 3800 when the harmonic balancer rubber shreaded, but can't remember how I did it.

It is possible to replace the crank sensor without removing the pully?

The bracket has two 13mm bolts. Even with the 2 bolts removed the bracket seems like it might be stuck on a guide pin that goes into the block. I don't want to pry on it. Is there a 3rd bolt? Ive looked it over good and don't see one.

There is also the long tension screw for adjusting the crank sensor position, that is pretty self explanatory.

Any tips or advice?

Need to get it running this weekend, any help is appreciated.
 
This sounds crude,but it works.
Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt,Rest the breaker bar against the frame,Make sure it will be resting against the frame when hte motor turns over,Tap the key and it will loosen the bolt,Obviously dont let the car start.
HTH
 
the bracket has a hole in it that rest on a dowel pin sticking out from the block , it help to keep it closer to alaignment because of the slop in the two bolts

take out the long 5/16 bolt and remove the wire connector , if you rotate the hub you should find an area where the windows in the rings line up that will allow you to slide the sensor back and remove it from the bracket, then if you want to you can remove the bracket
 
Originally posted by KLHAMMETT
This sounds crude,but it works.
Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt,Rest the breaker bar against the frame,Make sure it will be resting against the frame when hte motor turns over,Tap the key and it will loosen the bolt,Obviously dont let the car start.
HTH
Yep, easiest method. I've used this method multiple times. :) If you want to ensure it won't start, either pull the fuel pump fuse, or disconnect the connector from the ICM.
 
Hi,
I like the idea of using the Starter to do your work for you better, getting the damper out of the way for a clean r&r.Don't forget that you need to adjust these sensors. A nonmagnetic feeler gauge is recommended.
 
what metric bolts used to pull balancer?

i know there is some "J" tool to pull the balancer off. Ive also heard of using a chevy puller with the appropriate metric bolts. What is the size of the metric bolts you can use with the standard puller?
Andrew
 
I know this is late but if you get the number one (or any) piston on the compression stroke you can stuff some rope in the spark plug hole and that will keep the piston from going all the way up. You want to make sure you're on the compression stroke so you don't screw up your valves.
 
do you need a puller to get the ballancer off on the FWD regals?
 
do you need a puller to get the ballancer off on the FWD regals?

On some, yes, you do. I don't remember what year they started, nor do I remember the size bolts needed. I do remember they were quite small (maybe smaller than 10MM thread size), and if I remember correctly the ones that needed a puller had crescent shaped cut outs where you inserted the puller bolts.
 
I have a 95 3.8 regal. i need to replace the crank sensor.
 
the thread sizes are either 1/4"x28x3.5" or 7M. I have read the 6mx1.0 is too loose
heaviest grade you can get.
Strap wrench around the balancer, vice grips,screwdriver on flywheel,J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool can help hold motor still.
 
For the record/ fwd 3.8 regal balancer removal

this is for a 95 regal custom,
i put a breaker bar and socket on the large balancer bolt, put the breaker bar some where up against a frame member, hit the key start quick a couple times untill the bolt spun free.
to pull the blancer, I used the longest 1/4"x28 grade 8 bolts and washers i could get (1/4 in fine, they were either 3.5 or 4in. long)
Use the long 1/4 in bolts with a standard chevy balancer puller. I had to leave the large center balancer bolt loose and in place for something to put the puller center pin on (the threaded hole was to large my puller).
bolts threaded ok into balancer with patience, held puller still with free hand while turning, not a big issue
Changed crank sensor,
put a long piece of clean nylon rope into #1 cylinder (actually kids jump rope) to keep motor from turning over while torqueing the main balancer bolt.

car works great now. no more getting stranded
 
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