Need advice on stereo setup

[sugarandopium]

man this **** gets confusing......

im done with gofast parts for a while.
doing some suspension upgrades and want to get the stereo listenable.


car currently has an aftermarket pioneer receiver, nothing great, cheap bestbuy type unit.
terrible 6x9 in the rear deck and stock CSII and Dash speakers.
It sounds so bad, i can't even listen to talk radio on it.

From the sticky:
GOAL OF SYSTEM:
I want it to sound good,
want the power to be able to listen to clear music, when stereo is cranked at highway speeds.
I don't need to impress someone down the block, but want to impress myself.


WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO:
About 80% rock, 20% Electronic music.
Bass is important, but don't want it too boomy.

HOW MUCH ARE YOU WILLING TO SPEND:
I want to spend less than 700 to get started, if i can upgrade from there, this will be ideal.
I'm thinking keeping the receiver now to keep costs down, and just get speakers all around, then upgrade the receiver and go with subs/amps in the future.

Really not wanting to go crazy modding things to fit different sizes, so get 6x9 for the back, 5 1/4 for the doors, 3.5 for the dash. first...

.......was just going to read reviews on these, but if anyone has a combo to recommend?

Then get a new receiver and amp and subs.
Have a good idea on the receiver, want to get the Pioneer DEH-P47DH, or something else that will fill the whole space.
But no clue on what to do about amps and subs, any ideas?
What size/model # subs should i be looking at?
Same for amps, how many watts, model numbers?

 

[souljasmooth]

If I was in your situation, and have around $700, this is what I would do. I would keep the existing head unit. I would buy all new speakers-Same brand. Components in the front, and 6x9's in the rear. I would buy a 10" subwoofer, and small amp to power it. I would do something like this:

JL Audio TR525-$140
JL Audio TR050-$100
JL Audio TR690-$150
R&T316-10-$50
8 ga. amp kit-$40
JL Audio 10W0-4-$100
TMA 360.2-$150
Dynamat-$40-the more the better

Total System price: $770.00

Another good system

JBL GTO508c-$190
JBL GTO928-$150
JBL GT53011-$200
8 ga. amp kit-$40
R&T316-10-$50
JL Audio GT5-10D-$100
Dynamat-$40-the more the better

Total System price: $770.00

You cant go wrong with either one of these systems. I have put together thousands of systems and it is not always about how much money you spend, its more about how the system is put together and matched. Both systems will benefit from a 4 channel amp. I left out the 4 channel amp because you can always add that easily after the rest of the system is installed. Not everyone will need a 4 chaneel amp. I always recommend matching the interior speakers, but the sub and amp can be different brands without any problems. Let me know if you need any further help on your system.

 

[sugarandopium]

thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you


TMA 360.2-$150
would it be ok to go with the 500 or 1000 tma or would that be too much?
not seeing the 360 for sale anywhere

also, should i do two 10" subs or just one?

and is onlinecarstereo.com a trusted vendor to order from?
their prices seem great.

 

[sugarandopium]

n/m found the 360 amp, can not find the box, this is the closest able to find:
http://www.rtboxes.com/sub-boxes-woofer-manufacturer-single-jl-318/

There is nothing on the dropdown menu for woofer series W0 though, so not sure?

 

[souljasmooth]

NO problem.....The reason I chose the TMA360.2 is because JL's 10W0-4 only comes in single 4 ohms. If you are using a 4 ohm subwoofer, you must use a 2-channel amp, that way you can bridge the amp, and maximize power with a 2 ohm load. The 360.2 will be plenty of power for a single 10" sub. If you use 2 JL 10W0-4, you will need to use a monoblock, because when you wire up 2 4 ohm subs, it will give you a 2 ohm load. Ideally you want your amp to see 2 ohms. The TMA 360.2 is on their website.

From two subs to one is going to be your preference. I prefer 12" subs over 10" if you are going to do a single subwoofer. You stated you wanted to impress yourself, and not someone down the block. A single 10" is fine for that, but 2 10" woofers would be better.

Remember that most online retailers are not "authorized" dealers. That means that there is "NO" warranty with their products. The warranty that they offer will be a warranty through them only. Manufacturers will not honor that warranty. Which means if they happen to dissapear, then you are out of luck. Crutchfield, is going to be your best "authorized" online dealer. What about your local audio store?

Let me know if you need any further help.

 

[souljasmooth]

Try this:

RTBoxes Subwoofer Enclosures

All the box is, is a small sealed box. You can go with any good manufacturer for this, or build your own. I prefer sealed boxes over ported, but again this is going to depend on what you like. Typically a sealed box will play cleaner, and deeper, but is less efficient meaning it takes more power to sound louder. Ported boxes are typically louder more efficient, but arent as clean and deep as a sealed box.

W0's are new. They will work well in the 316-10 box.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I run Polk 3 way 6X9's in mine with adapters from Crutchfield, and Alpine 3.5's which I think are now out of production. For a head unit I'm running an old school (1998) Alpine with BBE. Believe it or not I get excellent sound quality.

I forget what I spent on the speakers as it's been 3 years ago when I bought them. But I'm pretty sure I have less than $300 in the speakers.

 

[sugarandopium]

NO problem.....The reason I chose the TMA360.2 is because JL's 10W0-4 only comes in single 4 ohms. If you are using a 4 ohm subwoofer, you must use a 2-channel amp, that way you can bridge the amp, and maximize power with a 2 ohm load. The 360.2 will be plenty of power for a single 10" sub. If you use 2 JL 10W0-4, you will need to use a monoblock, because when you wire up 2 4 ohm subs, it will give you a 2 ohm load. Ideally you want your amp to see 2 ohms. The TMA 360.2 is on their website.

From two subs to one is going to be your preference. I prefer 12" subs over 10" if you are going to do a single subwoofer. You stated you wanted to impress yourself, and not someone down the block. A single 10" is fine for that, but 2 10" woofers would be better.

Remember that most online retailers are not "authorized" dealers. That means that there is "NO" warranty with their products. The warranty that they offer will be a warranty through them only. Manufacturers will not honor that warranty. Which means if they happen to dissapear, then you are out of luck. Crutchfield, is going to be your best "authorized" online dealer. What about your local audio store?

Let me know if you need any further help.

Thanks for all your advice man, it's all starting to make sense now.

I should probably go with two 10s even if that puts me over budget.
My other car has two 8" subs and it leaves me wanting more bass.
That being said, wondering if I should go with two 12s?

What monoblock amp would be needed to power two 10" or two 12" W0s
Would the tma500.1 be enough for those??

 

[Dabigguy]

Two 12's may take up more trunk room that you are willing to give up. I've got one 12 and it mounts under the rear shelf quite nicely. Two 10's may be able to fit in that area, but then you lose a place to mount your amps.

It really doesn't matter what sounds good to someone else, it only matters what sounds good to you. I've got an old Petras Prowler 12" sub run with an old school Harman Kardon CA260 amp (60x2) and it rocks my rearview mirror. Me likey !!!

 

[souljasmooth]

Thanks for all your advice man, it's all starting to make sense now.

I should probably go with two 10s even if that puts me over budget.
My other car has two 8" subs and it leaves me wanting more bass.
That being said, wondering if I should go with two 12s?

What monoblock amp would be needed to power two 10" or two 12" W0s
Would the tma500.1 be enough for those??

Yes the TMA 500.1 will be enough for either two WO 10's or 12's. I prefer 12's over 10's. 12's to me are the best universal subwoofer. The can play loud, deep, and tight depending on the brand, box, and amplifier. 15's, and 10's are limited. 12's usually dont cost much more than the same version 10. I dont even like 8's. I would never recommend them to anyone, unless space is priority for them. Let me know if I can help any further.

 

[souljasmooth]

Two 12's may take up more trunk room that you are willing to give up. I've got one 12 and it mounts under the rear shelf quite nicely. Two 10's may be able to fit in that area, but then you lose a place to mount your amps.

It really doesn't matter what sounds good to someone else, it only matters what sounds good to you. I've got an old Petras Prowler 12" sub run with an old school Harman Kardon CA260 amp (60x2) and it rocks my rearview mirror. Me likey !!!

You are right to a point. But if a person has very limited experience in sound, than that person has no idea what to listen for. They may think their system sounds good, until they hear something better. Its called a reference point. I deal with people on a daily basis that think their stock systems sound good, and have no idea how bad their systems really are.

Your old school Harman Kardon amps are classics. HK doesnt make them like that anymore.

 

[sugarandopium]

You are right to a point. But if a person has very limited experience in sound, than that person has no idea what to listen for. They may think their system sounds good, until they hear something better. Its called a reference point. I deal with people on a daily basis that think their stock systems sound good, and have no idea how bad their systems really are.

Your old school Harman Kardon amps are classics. HK doesnt make them like that anymore.

very limited experience in car audio here and this is first non stock im building....
my other car has two 8" subs in the trunk (stock system)
they suck, leaves you wanting so much more bass.
and only sounds good with hardrock/metal.
even the rock based music i do like (post-punk, coldwave, etc) sounds like ****.
forget about trying to play any electronic music on it ....
the bose system in my last car (05 Pontiac) sounded much better with no subs.
ill give the dual w012s and a 500.1 a shot,
really not concerned with trunk space at all.

last question... what box for 2 w012's?
appreciate all advice soulja, thank you.

 

[Dabigguy]

Before you start buying things, listen to some systems that are in your price range. Go to some audio stores on the weekend and there are usually people shopping or working there that would be more than willing to give ya a listen. Just be realistic in your budget........some people have big $$$$ in their system.

 

[Dabigguy]

I went from 2x12 in a huge 7th order bandpass box w/600 watts that would cause a CD case to jump 3" off the seat to one 12 in a 1.5 cuft box with 120 watts and am happy.....and my hearing thanks me too.

 

[souljasmooth]

very limited experience in car audio here and this is first non stock im building....
my other car has two 8" subs in the trunk (stock system)
they suck, leaves you wanting so much more bass.
and only sounds good with hardrock/metal.
even the rock based music i do like (post-punk, coldwave, etc) sounds like ****.
forget about trying to play any electronic music on it ....
the bose system in my last car (05 Pontiac) sounded much better with no subs.
ill give the dual w012s and a 500.1 a shot,
really not concerned with trunk space at all.

last question... what box for 2 w012's?
appreciate all advice soulja, thank you.

Anytime.......I prefer sealed boxes, so a R&T 326-12 would work fine. If you like louder boomier bass go slot ported. Or you can build a custom box. Custom boxes always sound a little better if built right. But most shops charge quite a bit more to build them. If you want to build a box yourself, I can get you the air space dimensions for the W0's. Did you find a good source to purchase the products from? Let me know how things go

 

[souljasmooth]

Before you start buying things, listen to some systems that are in your price range. Go to some audio stores on the weekend and there are usually people shopping or working there that would be more than willing to give ya a listen. Just be realistic in your budget........some people have big $$$$ in their system.

Good advice.

One thing though....be careful with some auditions, as it can sometimes sound much better in the demo, than in your car.

 

[IrvJr]

I find a good quality head unit is the best place to start. I used to only buy Pioneer and my brother swore by Alpine. Well i found a good deal on a closeout sale for an nice Alpine unit and took out my new Pioneer and slid in the Alpine and the diference was amazing, with no other changes made. Now i only use Alpine. The set up in my WH1 is a new Alpine unit, the 3.5's in the dash and 6 x 9 Alpines in the trunk with a nice Alpine amp on them. Dont know the model number since i only replaced the unit for a start, but at 75 on the highway with the windows down and tops off i can hear the crystal clear music plain as day. Now i want a sub and im partial to 12", Pioneer again. I have a 12 DVC in my K5 Blazer and it thumps hard and is clean. Now im like you, not really wanting to impress anyone or show that i have a system, i just like well rounded sound.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Irv, do you have a model number for both head units, the impressive Alpine over the general Pioneer?

Might just be me but it seems all thenew Alpines have lost their edge. Back 10 years ago Alpine made some killer sounding head units over Pioneers.

 

[IrvJr]

I will get them tomorrow for you.

 

[IrvJr]

I had the Pioneer DEH 6700 MP in my Tahoe and it was great. After we got rid of the Tahoe i put it in my GN. I replaced it with the Alpine CDA9831 after getting a good deal on it and the difference was noticeable. I bought an Alpine CDA 9886 for the T Type and love the Ipod connection and the sound is amazing with just 6 x 9's and the dash speakers. Granted the bass is lacking but sounds good and is clear at high volumes.