Methanol A/F ratio Syclone 4.3

[it's just a six]

Hey guys,

I have been playin around a bit w/the Julios alkycontrol kit. I installed on my Syclone

Initially I ran 99% isopropyl alcohol (because I ran out of methanol)

I had the boost pressure @ 23 psi & I noticed I could make the A/F ratios dip into the 9's,but it seemed to run better around 10.0 A/F ratio,& this was not @ number 8 (maybe 4-6 range) on the control knob.

Now I have 100% methanol in the tank & took it out & noticed I could turn the knob all the way ,to the number 8,& the richest it would get was 10.6-10-8 A/F ratio. Lean, correct?

I believe it actually felt faster when I had 99% isopropyl & an A/F ratio of 10.0 than it does now w/100% methanol w/an A/F ratio of 10.6- 10.8 ,which I think is lean.

I forgot what size nozzle Julio sent me in my kit ,but I am thinking it is too small. I believe it has a M15 ,what is the next size up/bigger ?

I have used about 2 gallons so far,checking/adjusting the boost controler AEM Tru boost,Knock retard,& even plugged in my Betronics Vector FX@ instrument ,(Like a Gtech.)
Best it ran was 12.10 @ 107.4 60' of 1.62 & 0-60 MPH in 3.35 seconds.

If I wanted to,I can turn up my base FP & can get an A/F ratio as rich as 10.5 (or even a bit richer) w/pump 91 octane no alky.

So I figured I can turn down my fuel base pressure because I am injecting a lot of methanol.

When I dynoed the truck it made 386 HP @ 550 ft lbs of torque on those dynapack dynos Dynapack

I know I should be tuning via the ecm,but, for now, I am thinking I should need a bigger methanol spray nozzle,what do you guys think?

When I turn the knob to 8 ,bring the rpms up to 3000 rpm & press the test butting on the control box, the engine will load up badly & will almost kill the engine if I keep depressing the test button,so I would need to let off the test button before I think it would kill the engine.

Also,@ no time will the red "ON" light ever change to green,pressure too low?

Thanks for any help

Rick

 

[it's just a six]

What do most of you guys shoot for on your A/F ratios when injecting a lot of methanol & pump gas ?

9.5-10.0?

Thanks

 

[imjoesnuffy]

This is for my 3.8L. Don't know what the differences are for the 4.3 sy/ty. I set mine at 11.0 via the TT 6.0 chip. Dual nozzles, a M15 and a M10, single pump in the tank with 93 Octane. Street tune of 25-26 psi with the alky knob on 6. Timing at 23 for 1/2, 21 for 3rd. If you wanted to dance on the ragged edge, you could lean it out as much as 11.5, but I wouldn't consider much higher than 11.2, call me a conservative, but I dont like changing head gaskets.

The lower the number = richer. The higher the number = leaner.

Unless you are using Alky as a fuel source, adjust your fuel to hit your target A/F ratio. The alcohol is meant to be knock suppression.

The LED that turns to green isnt on the controller, it is the "extra" one. I mounted mine between the boost and knock gauge on my A pillar.

Hope that helps, I am sure more knowledgable people than I, will chime in.

 

[Razor]

The alky kit is to control knock. Fuel is used to trim air fuel.

Fuel changes are to be made via eprom reprogramming in your computer. Whether its another chip, emulator, etc.

Knock is done through the use of a datamaster hooked into your aldl port.

Typical target single nozzle meth system is 10.5-11.0:1 as a starting point.

Now.. based on your post the concern I have is you state the clear colored led light does not change from red to green. If the Gain knob is on 8, the light should change from red to green pretty quick.

Unless there is a leak in the system, wiring issue, etc.

Simple wiring test.. go and unplug the pump from the 3 pin weatherpack electrical connector by it. Go inside truck and hit test.. light should be green. If so, the wiring from pump, controller, etc is correct. If not.. something wrong in wiring.

Post back.

PS.. you need to get the proper stuff to do the tuning. The datamaster is the minimum. Your going around what needs to be done.. this can be dangerous to the motor.