Longer wheel studs for slicks AND GN rims

[BADDGUY6]

I have slicks on 8 1/2 Centerlines Auto/drag rims. What size/length wheel studs(longer than stock) do I need to get. To run the slicks at the tracks,with enough thread showing? AND still use the GN rim with the center caps and stock lugs on the street? How long are the stock wheel studs?

TIA,
Guy

 

[Wolfj359]

Call up Jegs or Summit and tell 'em you want the long ARP studs for your car. They'll send you the right ones. They are a good bit longer and thicker than stock and are made out of a much stronger steel, they look cool too!!

 

[John Larkin]

I've been told GM High Performance parts sells a heavy duty stud in metric that is longer. In a quest to get the right stud, I've also been told that NHRA rules simply state that the stud must extend past the lugnut (meaning you can see thread with no specific length stated). This is good, but the burning question in my mind is can you install these studs without pulling the axles? I'm tired of sealing and resealing the rear cover. Anyone have any do-able ways of accomplishing this?

 

[buickboy]

John-
I just put in Moser axles with long studs. They are 1/2x20 size and 3" long. I am using Turbo T wheels on the street so i am going for the long chrome open end lugnuts around 2" long, and using the stock center caps. I know GN's caps are held on by the lugnut pressure on the cap spring steel tang. I bet the long lugs would still do the same job as stock lugs. BTW, you must remove the axles to install long studs.
Mitch

 

[jones]

ARP Part#100-7708
Desc- "Camero, firebird, Corvette, Late GM 12mm, 1.5 Thd 0.509 Knurled Dia. Wheel Stud Kit"- Happened to have the package still laying in the garage. TWO inches of thread.
Last time at the track, they gave me a hard time because I didin't have them on the front, so do them all!

5 in a pack for about $12. If you have a Checker close , check out thier price, it will save you the shipping.

And if you rotate the axle, you can remove and install the studs with out pulling the axle!!! (There is a space next to the brake cylinder that with a little time you can do it.)
Removal- Big hammer, should only take a couple of hits. I tried a 5lb Brass hammer first, but a large ballpeen took them out in two hits.

Install- find a Grade 8 nut and a good washer and some anti-sieze, then impact away. Torque wheels on a couple of time and check after each drive for a week.

 

[Nashty]

Pull the axle unless you can figure out how to press them out against the axle flange.

Beating on them like that will absolutely hammer the outer bearings not to mention the C-clip in there is taking the brunt of that! That C-clip is holding your axle in and it is not that big. That is begging for trouble. Do it right.

 

[turbojimmy]

Back from the dead

Just bought a set of used Draglites and need longer lugs and lugnuts. The stock studs don't even come out to the edge of the hub on the wheel - they're about 1/8" short. Since the stock ones are 1.5", I don't think even a 2.5" stud would allow any threads to protrude. It would have to be at least 3", I think. Should I use the GM or the ARP lugs? Which Weld lug nuts do I need (length)?

What's the NHRA rule? Does the threads-protruding-at-least-the-diameter-of-the-stud rule apply to "shoulder" type lugs, too?

The original question wasn't answered either - is it possible to install the longer studs AND mount the stock wheel and center cap? In order for it to look right, would I just need longer, closed-end chrome lug nuts? If so, anyone have a GM part number or aftermarket recommendation?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

Up up and away

ttt

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by John Larkin
....... In a quest to get the right stud, I've also been told that NHRA rules simply state that the stud must extend past the lugnut (meaning you can see thread with no specific length stated). .........

Here is exactally what NHRA requires "All wheel studs must project into the hex portion of the lug nut by a distance equal to one diameter of the stud."

 

[TURBOV6]

turbojimmy

I got the ARP's 2.5" studs and with my Weld's its shows allittle over 1/2" out of the rim.

And I think the stock studs are only about a inch long.

 

[turbojimmy]

Re: turbojimmy

Originally posted by TurboV6
I got the ARP's 2.5" studs and with my Weld's its shows allittle over 1/2" out of the rim.

And I think the stock studs are only about a inch long.

Yes, the stock *threads* are about an inch long. I was measuring the whole thing. If we're talking 1" of thread versus 2.5' of thread with the ARPs, that'll do it.

Are these the Weld lug nuts I need?:
1.310'' long x .687'' dia. Shank Lug Nuts: Fits Pro*Star (96 series), Draglite (90 series), Rodlite (93 series) Wheels

On the stock rim/center cap topic, it looks like the stock lug nuts simply have a chrome cap. Looks like if I crank the stock lugs down over the longer studs, the caps will pop right off. I'm not terribly concerned with the chrome lug nuts, just want the center caps to stay on.

Anyone know where I can get stock lug nuts? Dealer still have them. GM P/N?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[TURBOV6]

I got Mcgard lug nuts.........

Open end lugs.........part # 06306-12x1.50 shank size is 1-3/8"
Closed end lugs.......part # 06316-12X1.50 shank size is 1-3/8"

 

[bob86gn]

I did mine without removing the axle. It is tough on the driver side due to the e-brake. I had little trouble pushing the stock studs out the back of the axle. I used a Snap-On wheel stud installer and a 1/2 drive. Took about an hour with little trouble.

I was careful to support the axle flange while using the BFH on the stock studs. The foreces have to be no where near the loads of cornering on the C-clips.

 

[John Larkin]

I ended up getting the Goodwrench 3" studs. If you want to run the centercap, which I don't, you'll need a conical lugnut. I found some that will work. Late model GM cars with the screw on lugnut covers have an open end and a big cone for centering the stock wheel. They are nice, gold irridited, but you'll have to live with the threads showing for the lugnut cover. They also have lots of thread too. Junkyard should be full of them; I think they are quite expensive new ($2.50 each maybe). I ended up with Centerline shank lugs for my AutoDrags. 5015 I think was the p/n.

Ultimately, I removed the axles to install the studs. It was the easiest solution considering my limited amount of specialty tools. A piece of 2x4 with a 3/4" hole drilled in it clamped to my work bench made a great place to pound the studs out into while supporting a large portion of the axle flange. Worked well for the install too with a BFH.

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the replies.

I ordered the ARP studs and Weld lugs. The GM lugs would've been cheaper, but I don't think I need that extra 1/2" based on the replies. With the stock wheels, I'm going to have at least 1.25" sticking out with the 2.5" lugs.

I got the Dremel out last night and hacked the ends off the chrome "caps" on the stock lug nuts. So there's still a chrome cover on them, and the stud can protrude. They'll work just fine.

My pinion seal is leaking really bad, so I have to take the rear apart anyway. I'll pull the axles and put the new lugs in then.

Thanks again,
Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

Well, I got the lugs and studs today. The ARP 7708s won't work. They're only 1.5" and the lugs are 1.5", that leaves about -1/2" by the time you get it all put back together (didn't do that, obviously, but that's the way it's looking).

The Weld lugs are right - they're 1.5" and the center section of the wheel is 1.5" thick. Need longer studs.

Going to order the GM ones and return the ARPs to Jeg's.

Just FYI....

Jim

 

[MG8T7GN]

GM part number 22551491 for 3 inch metric lug studs.

 

[tom h]

Originally posted by bob86gn
I did mine without removing the axle. It is tough on the driver side due to the e-brake. I had little trouble pushing the stock studs out the back of the axle. I used a Snap-On wheel stud installer and a 1/2 drive. Took about an hour with little trouble.

do you know the Snap-On model used? I looked thru an old catalog, nothing looked like it would do the job if the axle was left installed on the car.

And does this Snap-On tool do both remove and install, or install only?

TIA.

 

[Red Regal T]

FOR ONLY $1.00 A PIECE, YOU CAN BUY 2" LONG LUG STUDS AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE. HAS THE CORRECT KNURL DIAMETER AND THE SAME METRIC THREADS AS STOCK.....M12-1.50R HERE'S A PART # FOR "WHEEL TITE" BRAND........28501

IN MOST CASES, 2" IS LONG ENOUGH. STOCKERS ARE 1 1/2" FROM END TO END. HOW MUCH DO THESE OTHER AFTERMARKET LUGS COST? I GUESS THERE MAY BE SOME USE FOR THEM IF YOU'RE RUNNING 9s.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by Red Regal T
FOR ONLY $1.00 A PIECE, YOU CAN BUY 2" LONG LUG STUDS AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE. HAS THE CORRECT KNURL DIAMETER AND THE SAME METRIC THREADS AS STOCK.....M12-1.50R HERE'S A PART # FOR "WHEEL TITE" BRAND........28501

IN MOST CASES, 2" IS LONG ENOUGH. STOCKERS ARE 1 1/2" FROM END TO END. HOW MUCH DO THESE OTHER AFTERMARKET LUGS COST? I GUESS THERE MAY BE SOME USE FOR THEM IF YOU'RE RUNNING 9s.

The ARP studs are $13 for 5. The GM ones, from gmpartsdirect, are $1.32 (plus $75 for shipping ). Sounds like the the studs you mentioned are the same as the ARPs - 2" total, 1.5" of thread showing. The wheel is 1.5" thick. Even if they were 2" of thread (making them 2.5" total), by the time you figure the thickness of the flange at the end of the axle and the drum, you wouldn't have much - if any - thread showing.

I really don't want to have to do the job twice and my local track is really tough on the NHRA rules. If I don't have the right amount of thread sticking out they're not going to let me run.

The GM ones should be here in a few days. I think that'll solve the problem.....at least until the slicks put me in the 11s at which time I'll need a roll bar.

Thanks for the replies,
Jim