kill switch for relocated battery

[karolko]

I have looked around and have not found any real clean answers about kill switches on the forum, and the ihra manual is very vaigue about it as well.

i was hoping someone can explain how i should wire this thing together. i have heard people mention to use a ford selenoid, and the ever confusing alternator wiring.

Also can the kill switch itself be located under the trunk floor pan, as long as the handle is easily accessible from the outside.

what gauge of wire are you using to run to the starter, and to the alternator??

What type of kill switch do you guys use and lastly any photos of your setups.

hopefully this will clear up alot of questions for others as well.

Thanks

Adrian

 

[Chuck Leeper]

MadElectrical.com - Mad Enterprises

 

[KevinB]

Here's what I did. The push rod comes out through a small hole between the license plate and the right rear tail light. For street driving, the rod can easily be unscrewed and removed, the hole by the license plate is barely visible.

 

[turbobuick]

I used the Flaming River "Big Switch" and mounted it under the car and ran the lever through the bumper.

Flaming River FR1003-2 - Flaming River Big Switch and Lever Kits - summitracing.com

I bought the Summit racing battery cable kit which is 00 red wire and 4' of black ground wire.

Summit SUM-G1208 - Summit Battery Cable Kits - summitracing.com

You will need the following if running an altenator:

Painless Wiring 50105 - Painless Performance High Amp Shut Down Relay Kits - summitracing.com

I ran 4 gauge welding cable from the back of the alt to the relay and then to the switch. The pdf shows how to wire it. The relay kit comes with 8 gauge wire but the factory alt wire to the battery is actually 6 gauge and we are running it to the back of the car so I figured I would go to at least 4ga.

NAPA also sells these cable lug solder plugs that you just put in the lug and heat with a propane torch then shove the cable in. They are VERY nice and easy to use and make a cleaner junction than trying to crimp those large lugs.

 

[S2V6RACER]

If you run a alternator like the stock one that needs a resistor +12v (Key on power) to the voltage regulator you can get a 4 post master disconnect which you will run your key on 12v (the brown wire) back to the disconnect and when you hit the kill switch it will interrupt the 12v key on power to the regulator and the battery at the same time. The alternator will stop charging.



Chris's method is needed for a 1 wire self exciting alternator, but of course will work with either.