Is crank bad?

[Kendall1214]

Ok so after starting my build I'm having lots of little issues that I'm running into. Ok maybe they are kinda big lol my crank had to ne ground .030 have been told that the hp I'm liking at it needs junked next is if I get new crank is it worth the extra time effort machining and all that of putting a stroker kit in it? What benefits could I see from that and what all does it entail going with it. And Is there a roller cam kit that would be a decent price? One I was quoted for was around 1700-1800 seems kinda hi too me. Also I'm debating on having someone do the engine build cause time is running tight for me. Ugh so much stiff to go through

 

[charlief1]

What are your HP goals? I have 2 cranks that I'd be happy to get rid of. 1 is a std and if it needs turning it should be a .10/.10 and one will turn .10/.20. If interested send me a note.

As far as a stroker goes, how much are you willing to spend? A stroker will raise the build quite a bit just to fit the crank into the block properly because of the clearance it will need.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What Charlie said>>>>>>HP?
A solid, stock crank is used in many apps pushing 1000FWHP. Some even at the 1 G @ the wheels.

 

[Kendall1214]

Well update the shop said that to fit a stroker kit in it would cost 75 dollars in machining to.make it fit although he said he hasn't built a performance engine but has done stock Buicks.before I'm a little leary of it but have heard from other people he does a.great job....

 

[Kendall1214]

Im shooting for around 700 hp but Is there much difference in torque between them?

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Take it from experience ,if he doesn't build turbo buick engines on a regular basis friend or no friend,don't let him touch your motor. Only a shop that does a lot turbo buick will be able to get you that kind of hp. Also not gonna be cheap,6,000 to 8,000 for reliable motor depending on parts.

 

[charlief1]

A Buick V6 stroker short block, properly built, will cost between 7 to 10K, and no, I'm not kidding. The little V6 has some issues that you need to know how to handle to make it work and not blow up quickly. One of the more interesting issues is the oil passage on the passengers side of the block. It's got to be clearanced for the extra stroke and it's very possible to cut through into the passage. The other issue is the interference between the large end of the rod and the cam lobes. Depending on the cam chosen there can be problems that need to be modified to clear. This aint no cheby or ferd so it can't be built like one.

 

[usetaboost]

I'd spend 1800 on the bottom end before I drop that money on a roller cam. One thing to gernade a budget build, but worse to blow a rod out the side of the block because your 25-30 year old crank you put in your 5-7k+ engine decided to break. As far as shops go, ask locals where is the place to go. Give them the specs. Assemble it yourself if you don't want anyone else doing it. This way you can check it yourself. It's not sorcery. Been beating on mine for 5 years with as much boost as I can put to it. Old speedpro lifters are still rattling away and still got 13-15psi hot oil that hasn't been changed for a year. Just waiting for it to make a poopy so I can throw my spare in and start on a good motor. BTW, n/a cranks that haven't been stressed for 25 years have been mid 10s.

Don't be scared to shop around. There's cheap steel cranks out there.

 

[Kendall1214]

Well ik I want to get to mid to low 10s how much hp would that take? And I'm freaking out cause I am worried a lot bout the pre ignition. The guy in the shop has built the Buick engines before just not a high performance one and he said he hasn't done a stroker on these engines before....reading on the striker kits they say may need minor machining to fit....im just trying to pick at y'all not argue...I'm still new to these engines. The way it's sounding I need to stick with the stock stroke? I just want it to be able to hit mid tens and be reliable. Also I'm debating on keeping the alky injection that's on it there (think it's smc) not sure....the previous owner said it would back fire and stuff when started the injection so unhooked it. Im not so sure it wasn't wrong kind of alcohol ...should I try keeping it or should I think about another system?

 

[WPP-Bill]

A .030 under cast crankshaft and a 700HP target is a recipe for disaster. Do it right the first time and spend less in the long run.

 

[Jerryl]

Location?
Here is what "I" would do.
I would ship the block to an experienced builder before anyone's good friend would touch it shooting for that type of hp. You also need a tune, turbo, converter, trans, etc etc.

I would also contact Eticket who is selling a complete & proven drop in assembly with a tune that has gone low 10, which is around 700 fwhp, for a mismal $5k. If my heart was set on that type of hp, that motor would be in my car because there is no freaking way to build it for that.

Fwiw . . . I have seen a few 700 hp numbers thrown around lately and wonder if it is about bragging rights, in comparison to the hellcat or something . . . . . Lol
Either way . . . . Best of luck in your quest for 700.

 

[charlief1]

Please understand that none of us are trying to start an argument or piss in your pot. There's tons of info and members on here that can help you get to your goals and most will happily help you. You can get into the 110's with the stock crank and even the stock cam, if that's what you want to do. The biggest question is how long it will hold up. We've got 1 member that did a stock original short block with a cam and he showed how to do it, but the last run the engine let go. bison knows how to make these cars go and he might jump in here to help you out.

 

[Kendall1214]

The car was built right before I bought it aka trans and torque converter are Already there it had a custom shop build up the tranny. It was set up pretty good before. I had ran an 11.6 once without alky hooked up. And wasn't full throttle. But fuel pump went out...and me being new to these kept going which caused it to back fire lots and lady one tore it up. . so eticket huh? Can do that. I'm located in iola Kansas

 

[Chuck Leeper]

DAMN! Too many hits of pain killers! When I read the thread title, I thot it was about an LS crank..Disregard my post!

 

[Jerryl]

. so eticket huh? Can do that. I'm located in iola Kansas

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/424071/

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Think about alky to eliminate your detonation phobia

 

[Pronto]

DAMN! Too many hits of pain killers! When I read the thread title, I thot it was about an LS crank..Disregard my post!

Actually that's what I thought too.

 

[Kendall1214]

Its got alky but heard bad stories of alky

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

You got the wrong Alky system. If you are going to use gasoline as you primary fuel.........after your build is done call Julio and never live without alky again. Take whatever you have and sell it to a 18 year old Honda kid. Don't even think about it.

I noticed you have owned your Buick for 6 months or so. I understand the need for most people to get involved with the intricacies of building and designing there own motors. The truth is most of us are not qualified to do so. You see, the experience comes from seeing the carnage of our failures. Do you wan't that experience? Does your friend have that experience with ultra-high output Buick v6's? Unfortunately, there are a lot of people on this forum who do.

Box up the motor and send it to be built by one of the well known Buick motor builders. We all have our favorites and I'm sure privately you may be contacted with our opinions.

When you chose a motor builder, don't say anything. Just make it explicitly clear what horse power you want it to handle. He'll tell you what you need.....and what it will cost. Don't worry about that.

This worked for me. I would hate for you to go through a lot of heartache and then go onto the next best thing because you thought Buicks suck. They're great motors but the learning curve is normally longer with these cars.

 

[usetaboost]

Nothing bad about any alky kit. Most cheaper kits are price appropriate. Julio's kits are specifically made for our cars along with failsafes and all the info you could ever want is on the board or from the man himself. I put mine together out of a box of somebody's leftover parts and it works well. Find out what kit you have, what type of controller, and what the pump pressure is on the outlet and go from there.

One of the perils of owning these cars is being able to go through everything and being able to diagnose and do all preventative maintenance yourself. A lot of new owners that post here and on fb need to take the time to do research and do some learning on these cars. Waiting for a reply in the side of the road isn't going to help much.