Is 105 lowest BLM# possible?

SpoolinUpGN

New Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2002
Yep, sorry, another "low blm #'s" post. I've tried doing some research through the search feature, but figuring out BLM #'s just doesn't seem simple.

Once the car is warmed up, at cruise (no pedal) and at idle the scanmaster 2.0 is reading 105. I wasn't too worried about this number because the car seems to run strong and doesn't wreak of gas, but i came across a few threads in my search that i thought said 105 is the lowest reading capable for some chips. I've seen lower, as low as 90, so i'm not terribly worried, but i'd really like to start attacking this problem if this is considered "very low."

Other numbers from the scanmaster:
02: 100-800 bouncing (860's @ WOT)
L8: 30 (idle) as high as 90 cruising around
BL: 105 (idle) goes up to 115ish under light throttle
TPS: .46
CLT: 160-165
ATS: 71
IAC: 42
AF: 09
MAL: --

So what should i start looking for? I've heard a lot of people say the chip can be the reason for this, it has a 93 octane cotton performance chip for my 009's. I'm throwing in an AFPR this week as soon as i get a FP gauge, could i try to make some adjustments there (it has a bosch 237 now)? Thanks for any and all help guys,

Joe
 
Get a new chip and it will feel and drive like a new car, bottom ive personally seen is 90... Eric fixed that this year at BG.

860 at idle, you dont have 2 fuel pumps do you?

BW
 
lowest blm varies with chip maker , i would guess 105 is the lowest , look at the int and if its not 128 than 105 is the lowest
lower the tps to .42-.44 , .46 at SM and ecm may read a little more and think you are off idle already

whats the rpm ?, ill bet idle is very high , i say this beacause of next reading ,
af 09 !! that is a very high ,normal is 5-6 , maf is bad a or idle is excessive high and reason for the high o2s , and you may not be reading the first cell of the BLM grid
are you running stock maf or translator , if translator make sure you have settings correct for MAF and set others to base fueling (no correction)

ats 71 , seems like your IAT sensor is disconnected as 71 is the default

iAc 42 ,ok but little high ,once you get the rest squared away if its still 42 might want to try to get to 20 range
 
90 is rock bottom. When I first installed the 50,'s, the translator, LS1 MAF and extender, I had a serious low BLM problem. It was spitting out raw fuel...coughing and spitting..BLM's locked at 90. Really sucked. I brought the BLM adjustment on the extender down to 1, translator to 10% lean at idle, FP at 38psi line off...and my idle BLM's were still around 100, but at least it got my car on the road. Turned out to be from the outdated version 5.4 translator chip....well that was a big part of the bigger problem.
Your AF is ridiculously high. You have either a stuck injector, a bad MAF, bad translator (if you have one), bad chip or bad chip connection. Your MAF is spitting out a high airflow reading...so the computer adds alot of fuel. Then you run rich and BLM's drop.
Erase the computers memory, make a change, plug it back in and try it out. I found that if you dont rase the memory after a change, it will hold onto the old adjustments and try and tweak the tune around that...and it will never be right.
Whats your combo in terms of air/fuel metering and supply?
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, I will start looking into testing another MAF and/or a new chip (Turbotweak maybe?)

To answer a few questions:

No, i do not have two fuel pumps, just the walbro 340 hotwired. And i wrote 860 at wide open throttle - not at idle.

FORGOT TO POST INT # from scantool: 128

Air temp sensor reads many different numbers than 71, i guess that was just a bad time to record what i saw.

The injectors are less than a year old, i'm hoping its not them.
If i can answer any more questions just ask, thanks for all the ideas and replies guys.
 
Crap

Ok. Today i got to try another chip designed for 009 injectors, only it was a Red Armstrong 93 chip. Its a street chip and I was hoping it would fix this running rich problem.

Well. not exactly. I put the chip in after letting the car sit with the battery off for 15 min, and then put in the new chip. I started it and the numbers on the scanmaster were dead on, but then as the car continued run, the numbers started to get pretty bad. The car started to have a really rough idle and smelled pig rich.

I found out personally that 90 is the lowest BLM # possible because thats what the RA93 chip showed after a few min :eek:

If its not the chip, what else is the most common problem? I checked the pressure on my 237 reg and it reads 43lb fuel press line off, so i dont think the problem is there either.

Help my gas mileage sucks.
 
ok dude lower fuel pressure is to damn high at WOT. 860's 0'2s is telling me you are running pig rich, lower fuel pressure to about 38 static line pressure meaning take the hose off when you make the adjustment and go from there, you should see your blms move up to about 118 or so and your wot 0'2s should look right around 760 to 800.. just keep your eyes on the knock sensor make sure you dont know on top end..
 
If turning down the fuel pressure really does help then i will definately throw in my adjustable unit tomorrow morning. The only problem i have is that the green o-ring on the side of the regulator (it's a 233 reg with a billet top adjustable) is damaged and i am definately replacing it before throwin it in. Does anyone know if you can pick up that o-ring from a local parts store, napa/autozone type deal? :confused:

Also, besides there being the possiblity of 2 bad chips testing in this car, is there anything that could be wrong besides high fuel press or a bad MAF? i should be able to test another MAF later this week, but if that doesn't change anything (since it was replaced less than 2 or 3 years ago) is there anything else that could be causing the engine to dump too much fuel? I've heard that my AF ratio at idle of 08/09 is pretty high, so just trying to see what else may be the problem. :eek:

Thanks for all the help guys,

Joe
 
I'm sick of chasing my low BLM problem :eek:

I tried throwing in my original 233 regulator and i've noticed a few differences, but i think there is something else wrong with this car besides FP.

What does it mean if the car just wants to bottom out the BL#'s? I know its tryin to do this since the lowest the Cotton's chip will read is 105, or else it'd go lower, and the RA chip i tried went down to 90, rock bottom.

MAF? Leaks? What should i be looking for? :confused:
 
I think you are confusing the AF readings on a scanmaster with Air Fuel ratio..AF on the scanmaster is the MAF not air fuel ratio..As Pacecarta stated, 9 is way high for idling..Normal is 5-6..When my MAF went south(happened seemingly all of the sudden) it went up to 10 at idle and BLM's dropped to 105 with my TT chip..Tried a known 'good' one and cleared it right up..Running the MAF Trans and LT-1 now...Follow Pacecarta's suggestions too and get a good known working MAF, stock or one with a trans on it to continue troubleshooting, probably not both chips that are the issue..With vacuum or exhaust leaks, i'd think you would see high blms
 
Tried another MAF today, one off of another car that is supposed to be a known "good" working one. Didn't get the results i was hoping for... the car idled extremely rough and kept stumbling while trying to cruise around with it. After a bit it seemed to like the MAF a little bit more, but the weirdest thing is what happened to my BL#'s: They jumped to about 150. At idle, they'd hang there for a bit, then it would stumble and fall down to 130, then back up to 150, repeating over and over. AF was at 04 and INT was at about 140.

Any idea what this means?

I also put in my adjustable, and knocked fuel pressure down to about 40# line off. The car seems to run a bit better (with my usual MAF in) and the 02's at WOT dropped from 860's/870 to 800-820's. BL# stayed relatively the same though, after being warmed up they would drop down to 105 at idle/cruise but they seem to bounce around more and stay up in the 115 range some more. AF moved down to 06 at idle too.

Oh how much fun it is to tune. Not. Does anyone think that one of Eric's TurboTweak chips that everyone raves about would help me out?
 
Quick6'n'-K.C. said:
Get a new chip and it will feel and drive like a new car, bottom ive personally seen is 90... Eric fixed that this year at BG.

860 at idle, you dont have 2 fuel pumps do you?

BW

Maybe, wouldnt hurt to try..

BW
 
IMO you’re all over the place (high BL’s, low BL’s, high AF, low AF, this chip, that chip). Slow down and go back to the basics. Check all the vac lines, intake plumbing for leaks, exhaust leaks before the turbo. If that K&N is air filter in the engine compartment you could be getting improper MAF readings when the cooling fan kicks on. Set that FP to 38psi line off and set the TPS to .42. What kind of O2 are you running? If not an AC Delco (part #25162693), get one.

When I had a low BL (105) it ended up being a loose PCV hose and my Tin Man intake. Two wire ties and a K&N filter fixed this up.

Have you talked to Jack about this? I'm assuming this all started when you installed the Cotton Chip? I've talked to him a couple of times and he seems to be one of the most helpful guys out there.
 
So did you clear the memory before swapping the MAF? Was it a stock style MAF or an LT1/LS1 MAF?
Does the injector specification with the chip, match your actual fuel injectors?
You replied to Kevin with this:
"And i wrote 860 at wide open throttle - not at idle."
You missed the point. He's saying your rich condition at WOT is a sign that you are probably rich at idle. Bring your FP down to 38.
Your AF should not say 9. Thats really high. I still dont know if you have a stock MAF, or an LS1 MAF and a translator. If you have a translator, the chip is probably bad or outdated.
You have low BLM's because your MAF reading is wrong. Its wrong because there is something either wrong with the MAF, or something wrong with a translator, if you have one
I agree that you are all over the place here, and not using any good direction. You need to start with the basics and do things right. If you make an electronic change, erase the memory or the computer will hold onto its old adjustments and any change you make will not work as you had hoped
 
Tried lowering fuel pressure. its weird because after the car has warmed up, it's almost like all the numbers are perfect EXCEPT my blm's.

at idle w/ FP set at 41# line off...
02: 100-700 (820 @ WOT, still rich right?)
AF: 06
L8: 42
Bat: 13.8
Int: 129
BLM: 105
Clt: 178
Ats: 98
Tps: .46 (i would lower but i get 4.5v at WOT, i'm scared to mess with it)
Rpm: 825
Mph:00
Iac: 19
Mal: 00

If most of the numbers SEEM good, besides my BLM number, does that more or less rule out the MAF being bad? Just don't have the $ to replace random parts, looking for a very educated guess :biggrin:

I like the idea of talking with Jack about this... anybody in the NE area have any idea what someone like Jack would charge to help tune the car?

Thanks for all the replies guys, this has been a steep learning curve!
 
Low BLM's means MAF, injectors, O2, ecm issue.

A hole in your IC could also create this.

Now the BLM limit is set by the chip maker. The Reds and Baileys Extender for example set their limits at 90, while most other chip makers chose 105. Consequently Reds has an upper limit of 160 while others use 150.

If your MAF is pegged.. you have issues. Period.
 
SpoolinUpGN said:
.....Tps: .46 (i would lower but i get 4.5v at WOT, i'm scared to mess with it)
You may want to re-think your TPS setting.
 
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